K11 Owners Group

hi jim. i just got home from a long day dealing with the bike for sale. i did indeed buy it...got it for $1,700.

i could not get the abs 2 system working. i tried hard stops with the rear wheel. i ...

thanks guys. im headed to his home now with my tools AND MONEY! hopefully he will not get worried when i begin pulling codes/tests for the motronic/abs/fan/tps, check brake disc thickness, and do a co ...

jim: you are 110% correct. i disassembled the rear caliper and it had lots of little rubber bits from the old hose. cleaned them out and the seals/pistons looked fine. good as new. thanks.

i called ...

oh my friend, this 93/95 issue has haunted me as well. i dont know what to make of it. i have ran the vin stamped into the metal frame and it shows 1995.

my vin is: WB1053609S0301702

the registr ...

thanks for the info on code 1133, scott. the bike was not started. it seems freakin' obvious to me now that the bike must be running to test the hall sensors(i mean, i did do my hall sensor led flash/ ...

i dont recall dragging, but that's a good point to be aware of. i took apart the caliper. it looks good. had little bits of the old black rubber brake line. i cleaned up the calipers and piston and th ...

fan test failed = got the 3333 to flash on the temp light, but the fan stays on constantly. shucks. i wonder if having a manual fan switch would "be just fine" instead of dealing with buying ...

i did not disconnect the blue/yellow wire at the relay plug. i just pulled the relay out and checked that applying voltage across it (using 12 volt battery) and it gave continuity across the load pins ...

i just got my first k1100 working and street worth; however, the radiator fan is always on and i do not see any hardwired "hot wire" or switch mod to the fan.

i have "hot water/boil ...

victory! got them in. thank you for the help. it was very useful.

i see the circlips. thanks for the location, inge. they look seated properly on both ends U-links. you can see them on the back side of the splines.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/omwp3romencl44i/2013-03- ...

final drive has been removed. i cannot find any circlips. here are some photos of the final drive and splines. does anyone see anything wrong?

transmission output spline:
https://www.dropbox.com/s ...

yes, i did have the shafts aligned properly. thanks for the suggestion though inge. im pulling the rear fork of now. report back after. where should these circlips be?
do they automatically clip in w ...

hi scott,
thank you for the info.

i removed everything on the final drive (i was putting in a new clutch, rear main seal and front tranny seal). all three splines of the final drive were accessed ...

i replaced the needle bearing on the interior side (e.i. right side) of the rear axle. however, i cannot get the rear axle to align properly with the rear fork holes when reassembling the final drive ...

great help. thanks for the info, guys.

i did the diagnosis code pulling sequence (bike not running, ignition on, ground pin 1 of diagnosis connector for 5 sec, watch code flash, turn off bike) thre ...

The engine was not running. I tried start run stop once and it did not clear. I should have done that sequence more times. I'll pull the fuse to clear the code if it still exists. Thank you for your h ...

problem solved. i got the bike running. it ended up being a very corroded ignition amplifier connector. the ground wire connector pin was heavily corroded. i had to pull the rubber "boot" ba ...

Hi Inge k,
Yes we definitely agree. I'm am at the bike now and I:
1) o-scoped the signal going into the primary coil from the ignition amplifier. This pin is grounded when not firing (the other pin ...

i can measure a signal on the ignition control unit "output to coils" two pin connector, but im not certain this is the right signal.
-does anyone know what the signal should be?
Two pin? ...