K11 Owners Group

Rafal · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:51 pm Post subject: Fork seal change.

Hello!
I still don't have my Clymer close to me :/, so I have search thought the web and have to ask you.
Is it possible to change fork seal without removing forks form motorbike?
Looking at fork drawing it looks like I will have to take them out. If so what would you suggest to clean and flush the tubes. Should I remove the springs for cleaning too?
If there any verified procedure for that I more then eager to read it Very Happy

.

Best regards,
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad

, but not to far Smile

.

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:13 pm Post subject:

The procedure to get to the fork seals is shown here:

http://k11og.org/tech/k11tech_springs_install.shtml

It can be done on the bike but I usually drop the forks and do it in the workshop. I take the cartridge out and put a cloth on the end of a stick to clean out any gunk that might have built up.

When I put the forks back in I put the axle in (w/o the wheel) to align things before tightening the 4 bolts that hold the fork bridge on.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Rider · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:56 pm Post subject: Fork seal replacement

Well, yeah, the seals can be replaced without removing the fork tubes from the bike. The thing that will hold you up is the bolts in the bottoms of the forks. If you don't have an impact wrench you might not get them loose. This applies also if you elect to remove the fork tubes from the bike. The procedure I use is first drain the oil from the forks and then mount a short extension on the impact wrench and take out the bottom bolts. Then loosen every thing up and remove the axle and wheel. Then carefully slide the sliders off the tubes.

This is a really quick explanation of the process. It's important to have the bike jacked up and a couple of jack stands under the foot pegs.

Good wrenching,

Ed
_________________
2007 650 Burgman, 2003 400 Burgman

Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you.

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:03 pm Post subject:

Yeppers - those cartidge bolts are tough. My procedure is to empty the fork, put the caliper mounting holes in a bench vice and put a pipe on the Allen wrench for leverage.

I hate the 4V forks, first there's the circlip then there's getting those little dogs back in. 2V forks are much easier.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

endoman100 · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:26 pm Post subject:

I had to pull the brakes off. the fender, and wheel just to get to the bottom bolt
because the axle has to be out to get to the bottom bolt that holds the fork tube in place. once the bolt is out you can slide it of without removing the forks from the tree. dont forget to drain the oil first. i took the drain screw out at the lower end of the fork tube and then removed the oil filler plug of the fork then the oil drains out o lot faster.
you need to do that anyway to put the oil back in my 1993 k1100rs uses 350cc on left hand leg ond 400cc on the right hand leg
good luck I hope this helps.

you can always go to www.bikebandit.com and look up the forks for your bike as if to order parts and they have diagram of your forks disassembled
_________________
In the words of the stones
Time Is On My Side
Yes It Is
1993 K1100RS

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:01 pm Post subject:

And be careful putting the drain screws back in - they strip VERY easily- just get them nice and snug.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Jim · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:32 am Post subject:

Rider · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:32 pm Post subject: Fork seal replacement

Endoman spotted my error about removing the brakes, wheel and axle before you can get at the bottom bolt that holds the slider on. Next time I try to be an expert I'll go out in that cold garage and look at the assembly.

The point is made above about being careful putting the fork oil drain plug back in. The Clymer book gives a value of 6-7 foot pounds but torque wrenches that range up to 100 foot pounds won't read that low so an inch pound torque wrench is a good investment. Even then I wouldn't go more than 50 inch pounds on that plug.

Ed
_________________
2007 650 Burgman, 2003 400 Burgman

Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you.

Rafal · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:16 pm Post subject:

Hello!

Every manual says that when changing the oil the amount of oil is 350 and 400 ccm , but with disassembly one should pour 400 ccm each. So if I remove the springs and or slide pipes is it disassembly? What is the right oil level in order to check the state after job?

@ [b][Rider/b] - the torque is not a problem - I have bought the torque wrench with 4 - 24 Nm range.

What about such way of removing the seals - http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/showa-fork-rebuild.shtml ?

Regards,
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad

, but not to far Smile

.

Jim · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:39 pm Post subject: fork job

Rafal - that's right about the oil. If you're just changing the oil, it is 350 and 400. 50 hangs up in the piston on one side. If you have everything apart and the pistons out, it's 400 per side.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

endoman100 · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:27 pm Post subject:

Hey guys I apologize If it came out wrong Embarassed

I am a novice working on bikes definitely not an expert. It took me a month of watching youtube.com looking up how to change the seals in forks before i even tried it. I read somewhere on google that you could change the seals without pulling them from the tree. the hardest part for me to build up the courage was and just do it. the worst part was I had to get my wife to get the retaining clip out of the fork tube holding the seal in place. she has more patients than I do.
I joined this forum to learn about my K1100RS and make friends not boast about doing something right or wrong. again I do apologize if I offended anyone ..that was not my intent.
endoman100 Cool

_________________
In the words of the stones
Time Is On My Side
Yes It Is
1993 K1100RS

Jim · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:04 pm Post subject:

I don't see anything to apologize for in any of your posts. Most of this bunch here can take quite a bit without getting their nose out of joint. You'll know you're getting out of line when your posts start disappearing... Other than that, post away and don't worry about it.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:18 pm Post subject: Re: fork job

endoman100 · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:17 am Post subject:

Jim · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: fork job

Scott - that's my understanding of the situation... If you have 50cc of fluid caught in the (I think) rebound piston - it'll be there until you pull the pistons out.