K11 Owners Group

[MtnMan]

I purchased a 97 K11LT that had been down but not out, mostly fairing damage. Had to reset the ABS and it did well until colder weather! On trip to town I had the ABS lights start flashing and the pump was running constantly. I rode back home and disconnected the battery to get the pump to stop. I see that the Motronic control switches the coil on the ABS
relay on, does it switch it on and off to control the pump? I'm guessing the relay is sticking but thought I would ask the experts for info!
Mike Gilbreath
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I work on anything! (And sometimes I fix something!)

[bmwmick]

[MtnMan]

Thanks very much for the replies and info, was exactly what I needed to know! Really like this website, thanks to whoever started this!
Mike
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I work on anything! (And sometimes I fix something!)

[MtnMan]

I pulled the relay and replaced it with known good one from another unit I have. I read the fault code before I reset it and it was just as I suspected, #5 type 2 ABS!! The previous owner had a battery go bad and had replaced it just before he went down, bike sat a year before I got it. Think the owner had tried to start it with weak battery! Don't do it guys! You'll usually melt the start solenoid contacts together or in this case the ABS relay contacts! Low battery voltage is a big no on K bikes!!
Mike
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I work on anything! (And sometimes I fix something!)

[Jim]

[MtnMan]

Thanks Ted for starting this website, too many times we take things for granted. Speaking of that, how is this site funded? Is there an address for contributions? Mike
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I work on anything! (And sometimes I fix something!)

[Flying Duck]

[bmwmick]

I've always wondered why those ABS relays were so prone to failure. It seems odd that they wouldn't have designed a single contact relay with a large enough capacity for the required current.[/quote]


I 'think' they were more worried about the size of the hydro unit. Multi-contact relays work.....you just have to use good ones.
Just about anyone can pull the cover off that relay and properlhy align the contacts. I''ve fixed a few.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

[RobBowker]

'98 K1100LT - ABSII

Guess what led me here? Any light to be shed on the subject will be most gratefully received.

I think I may have (had?) a stuck ABS hydro relay. Engine off and ignition off, key out, something was making a whirring noise (deeper note than the petrol pump). I assumed it was the starter motor but it wasn't turning the engine over. The noise was coming from somewhere near there though. It stopped only when I disconnected the battery.

The battery was due for replacement so I started there and checked the starter relay which looked fine. No sign of welded contacts and if they had been, the prying open of the relay case may have opened them. Either way, I cleaned up the contacts with emery paper while I was there and reinstalled it.

The bike's now running fine and nothing keeps running after I take the key out.

However, I do have alternately flashing ABS lights. I read the code and translated it to a faulty relay in the ABS Hydro Unit (code 6).

What I don't understand is that if the battery is good (it is new, freshly and fully charged) and the ABS modulator pump isn't cycling through its self-test - I don't hear the usual death rattle when I move away from standstill - it surely can't be stuck contacts in the relay and the pump doesn't run on after the ignition key is removed. Or can they become stuck open as well as stuck closed?

I haven't tried to remove and inspect the relay, but that's the next step.

In case I have to replace a relay which is beyond repair (BMW Part #613 6230 6526, Siemens Part #V23134-J51-X198), does anyone know if there's a Bosch or non-BMW cost equivalent. So far, I can only see one in the USA and it is £138 (gulp).

Also, if the relay failed in the way I described, will it affect the ABS lights relay under the tank or will that be OK as the lights are flashing.

Presumably there's no point my trying to reset the ABS fault diagnosis thingummy but what would happen if I did?

For truth-seekers in a similar plight, this is encouraging:
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=770235&page=1

Meanwhile, I suppose it is electrical tape over those flashing lights.

Thanks in advance for any help available.

Rob
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1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)

[RobBowker]

OK, quick update. I reset the ABS fault by grounding pin 2 of the diagnostic plug and pressing the ABS dash button for 30 seconds with the ignition on. ABS warning lights changed from alternate to double flashing at standstill.

I started the bike, ABS lights went out after self-check (I heard the modulator's familiar clunking sound). Quick 10 mile spin and no lights reappeared. Turned off ignition and no unusual sounds.

Conclusion 1: if everything else SEEMS OK, deleting the fault code has to be done before the ABS modulator will perform its self test when setting off. I'm glad I tried this before attempting to remove/inspect/repair the ABS hydro relay!

Conclusion 2: it seems possible for the ABS hydro relay to stick on with a battery in poor condition (as mine was) yet for that to be temporary and for the relay contacts to behave normally, once a newly charged battery is fitted.

I had originally tried the fault diagnosis with a regular 12V indicator bulb but I suppose there was not enough current to light it up. For anyone in the UK, Maplins sell 12V LEDs for about £2 each. You just need to bend the legs out to prevent test lead clips shorting. Oh, and I'm now the proud owner of a £10 multimeter as well!
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1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)