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Timing chain access

 
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rover759
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts: 68
Location: Houghton Regis,UK

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:23 pm    Post subject: Timing chain access Reply with quote

Just tried to change the timing chain tensioner today but for some reason the cover did not budge.
I took of the hall sensor and (I think!!) I undid all the outer allen bolts.
Is there any "hidden" bolts that need to be undone?
Do you actually need to remove the hall sensor?
Do you need to remove the crank cover as well?

On an alternative subject..... Wink

Does anyone hire gas testers in the UK? I've heard Gunsons product is a waste of money Rolling Eyes
I've looked at the BM manual for the check on steering head play-it seems utter gobledygook unless you have a special tool is there another way Question
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Rover,
How many miles are on your K1100? I had 122,000 on my '96 K1100LT when I sold it and had never replaced either timing chain or the rubbing block which BMW says to replace every 36k miles. I hope it is really necessary to replace the chain and you are not doing it because you thought you read in a book that it was necessary.
Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP
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rover759
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts: 68
Location: Houghton Regis,UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rumbled!! Rolling Eyes
Yes mine has got 38k on the clock - that is the service I am doing while re-building the bike.
I changed the clutch cable because it was in bits mainly-a lot easier when the machine is not all built!
When i got it the oil was like syrup so I did a double change- it has cleaned up the inside of the engine beautifully!
The chain is minty fresh and in lovely nick-it is just the plastic guides I was looking to replace-the rationale being that they cost pennies and (in theory..... Shocked ) they are a doddle to change now before i complete the build up- typically I missed four parts that were broken- so while I was waiting I thought it would be a good idea to keep up the momentum!

Looking at the intermittents did you change the swing arm and wheel bearings every 25k?
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Rover,
I never changed the wheel bearings nor the swing arm bearings. As far as I know, they are going strong at over 135k miles. Every time the wheel was off, I felt the bearings and never did they feel rough.
Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP
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tmarshall57
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 07 May 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Tottington, Bury, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has 36K miles on the clock and I found I needed to change the bevel box to swing arm bearings. They felt slightly rough and I could see imprints of the needles on the cones. Apparently these are a weak point and can be replaced by a bronze bushing - many references to which can be found on this site.

Tony
_________________
K1100RS Special Edition 1997
Arctic Silver/Black
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rover759
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts: 68
Location: Houghton Regis,UK

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke to a garage about this and they said essentially they go when they go and just to attend to them when they fail-strangely pragmatic for a main dealer!! Shocked
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