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K11 Owners Group
K11 Owners Group
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA
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 Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:33 am Post subject: |
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| tmoons wrote: | They repair it by cutting the broken pipe diagonally open at the end.
this way the repair the inner wall, than they put the triangle the cut out back in place and weld up that side. They have a special jig to put the 3 or 4 headers on (usually 4, as the K100 and the K75 have separated header pipes).
And as a final touch they put a support brace on the pipe, to spread the stress over all 4 in stead of only 1.
put 2 new pics on the dutch side, using 3 colors i've indicated how they repared the exhaust.
Red is the initial cut,
blue is the first weld,
green is the last weld (this also goes over a part of the red line).
http://www.bmwr.nl/phpBB3_bmwk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3957&p=37046#p37046 |
That was very informative.
Thank you. 
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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tmoons
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 161
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| Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:40 am Post subject: |
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| QXEA wrote: | tmoons
How hard is it to get the rear main seal out and back in again? Were you able to just pull or pry the seal out or did you need to fabricate a tool to pull the seal? I need to fix the oil leak I have and I was thinking as long as I have everything apart I would replace the rear seal in addition to the o-ring seal. Thanks for posting pics. Orange coveralls, very stylish. 
Cheers,
Merle |
Getting TO the seal is the most work . once there, getting a pipe fitters pliers ?? ( one of those sliding pliers that allow you to open and grab bigger things...  ) and the use that to lever it out real easy..... getting the new seal in is a bit tricky... i used a piston from a 1.7 liter renault engine that i had laying around.... it has a nice hole in the middle that fits over the output shaft... and has the same diameter as the seal (the old seal gets destroyed in the removal process...)...
hope this helps. |
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tmoons
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 161
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| Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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K11Martin
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Posts: 123
Location: North Notts, UK
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| Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Shoganai wrote: | Ok, quoting the book, 
"Caution. As noted during removal, the clutch cover and pressure plate must be installed in a specific arrangement in order to form a balanced assembly. The relationship of these two parts must be correct or SEVERE VIBRATION will result, leading to costly clutch and / or engine damage.
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This DID used to be the case when the manuals were originally printed.
If you're removing your clutch and refitting it later, make your own marks.
If fitting a new clutch the marks are irrelevant. Modern clutches (at least, those in Europe) are pre balanced and need not be lined up especially with other clutch parts.
Any marks you find on new assemblies are left over from the production process. If a clutch cover goes through quality control and is found to need lightening in one particular spot, it gets a coloured mark. It then gets machined and receives another, different coloured mark depending on whether it needs more treatement or not.
This is why new assemblies often have marks of differing colours in apparently unrelated places.
This was explained to me by a Fichtel and Sachs engineer, who make most of the clutches supplied by Motorworks and Moto-Bins. It was a F & S clutch which I fitted to my own K11 last August and it had coloured marks all over the place.
I've now done a K100 and two K11s, with no vibration issues whatsoever.
This board doesn't allow attachments, or I would have attached an article I wrote for the BMW Club magazine detailing the entire clutch-swap procedure (on a k100), with pictures.
It can be accessed here (under Tech How To Guides)
http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=6585
but you need to register. Or I can e-mail it to anyone interested.
_________________
Currently riding a '93 K1100LT (ABS1) decked out with lights and aerials (Ex 70's Vespa rider)
Why not join the UK owners club at http://forum.bmw-club.org.uk/ |
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Drif10
Joined: 07 Jul 2008
Posts: 10
Location: Wooler, Ontario
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| Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:51 am Post subject: |
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| Steverino wrote: |
Watch it ya canuckian...she is my coffee bitch.
BTW I know a secret...:augie |
I know one too.
I switched you to decaf when I was down last month.
How'd it work out for you?
_________________
Carpe the living $#?@ out of the diem. |
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tmoons
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 161
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| Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:11 am Post subject: |
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So, i got the clutch back. balanced and mechenicaly marked 
i already put the back disc (silvery one) in....
the man from the shop told me the fibration was not caused by the clutch as the un balance was to little. (so i DID put the clutch in the right way round OR there is no unbalance between the various parts.
He did take some little things off (they drill holes).
I am still waiting on the parts (brass bush, alternator rubbers, spline lube (found a place that sells BMW approved spline lube for 7 euros per 100 ml. ) When that arrives, and i can find a hole in my planning (need to replace the cylinderhead on the Citroen ZX also (seems to be cracked))
keep you all updated... |
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