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Erratic fuel gauge
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Adrian
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Aug 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Weston super Mare, Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:46 pm    Post subject: Erratic fuel gauge Reply with quote

Since the weekend the fuel gauge on my 96 KLT has become rather erratic. It's OK when the tank is full, but after 150 miles and the gauge usually just below half the needle swings down way past the red almost like when you connect positive and negative the wrong way on a multimeter and then bounes back and forth!

Any ideas Confused

Adrian
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K1100LT SE
145,000 miles and counting Smile

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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Adrian,
For years, mine did the same thing on my first K1100LT. I just lived with it. I suppose I could have replaced it, but the cost is rather high for Motometer gauges from BMW, so I just lived with it. It's probably still doing the same thing for the current owner at nearly 150k miles.
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'94 K75A/3
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Last edited by Phil Marvin on Thu May 21, 2009 4:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine acts like that too but only on a FULL tank. Once I've used a bit of fuel it stops its wild swings.
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine did that too when I first got it. Then I did a major tear down of the bike, emptied the tank and stored it for about a month and a half. When I put it all back together the gauge worked like it should. I did bend the float rod a wee bit; float end toward ground.
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1992 K100RS 48K. Dead for now.
1998 Triumph Tiger 43K->56K. Doin it in the dirt.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since it's easy, the first thing I'd try is pulling the knee panel and checking/cleaning the connector contacts.
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Saltcreek
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 957
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like what it would do with a weak or dirty connection on one of the wires. I haven't worked on that system but does it start to malfunction about the same time the wires stop being immersed?
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine went silly last year. turned out to be a bad earth (ground) at the gauge end. Just my 2d (.02$).
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Since it's easy, the first thing I'd try is pulling the knee panel and checking/cleaning the connector contacts.


Not quite the same on the RS.

But I am old enough (a Geezer, according to jo) to use the trip odo as my primary "fuel gauge"- get to 150 miles and refuel. The actual fuel gauge is superfluous to me- and might be replaced by a voltmeter.
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endoman100
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 338
Location: Hastings Fl.

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Atlease yours works ..After the north easter came through Fl. mine is stuck on just above a 1/4 tank. and water is in the gauge.. Sad
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine was clouded up pretty bad and had the normal fluctuation and inaccuracies so I replaced it with a VDO model that looks trick, was reasonable (like 30 bucks if I remember) and is balls-on accurate.
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Adrian
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Aug 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Weston super Mare, Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted, it was a flaky earth, gave it a wiggle and now sorted, thanks.

I picked up a useful tip from Mike at Cardiff Motorrad today, he advised me to cover the electrical connections with Wurth dry chain lube, water resistant, but dry. Think I'll need to set aside a rainy day one day to go through all the connectors

Adrian
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K1100LT SE
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the BAD conditions we live with in the northeast U.S., electrical connections subjected to the outside weather are put to the test.

On my Fisher plow- mounted on the front of a 3/4 ton pickup (pretty bad salt/dirt exposure)- the electrical plugs work much better when cleaned then coated with dielectric grease. It holds off corrosion much longer vs. uncoated connections.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Note of caution: My first gas gauge was flippy (undamped) so I didn't like it anyhow but:

Had my bike parked in front of my step-aunt's house in Custer, SD. Massive September thunder/rainstorm opened up in the afternoon and my bike was uncovered. Left the air very humid. Then the sun came out, hit the gauge and the condensation created left a cloudy blotch on the inside of the lens.

If this ever happens to you, I think it can be avoided by putting a towel or something over the gauge to prevent the condensation from leaving crap on the inside of the lens when the sun hits it.
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94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine was like that on the Shop Whore years ago.
I replaced it with a new one and it's steady and dead on accurate ever sence.

Before that I replaced the sending unit, and had the shop verify the wiring was good. Niether fixed the problem.

I'll be replacing the fuel gage on the Blue Streak this year for the same condition Adrian discribed.

Yes, a new one. The reason for getting a new one is I believe the "The bimetallic strip is hooked up to the needle of the gauge through a linkage." is what has failed. I think I'll take the old one apart and take a look when I pull it.

FYI http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge2.htm
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1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:14 am    Post subject: fuel gauge Reply with quote

Gwen - the bimetallic strip and the linkage are in the tank - they are the sending unit - from there to the gauge is just wires.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: fuel gauge Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
Gwen - the bimetallic strip and the linkage are in the tank - they are the sending unit - from there to the gauge is just wires.


Thanks Jim.
I didn't know.
I do feel that the moving parts of the gage it's self fail in so way tho.

Why else would replaceing the gage be the only thing that fixed the problem? Question

Can you offer any suggestions as to what part of the gage itself could be the failed part?
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


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Jim
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: fuel gauge Reply with quote

Hmmm - maybe I'm wrong, Gwen. I haven't taken a gauge apart yet. I thought what you were describing was the stuff in the tank.

I've replaced gauges a few times - will install the VDO's soon. The Motometer gauges I've gotten seem to work well for awhile, then go wiggly.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK

PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not a bi metalic strip in the tank either, its a wire wound resistor track or rheostat, as the float rises and falls there is a contact that is moved up and down the track varying the voltage to the guage and the guage will be a coil and magnet arrangment, voltage from the sender will cause the coil to become a magnet and will move the needle depending on how much power it recieves (more power stronger magnet) the reason they become a bit erratic is either bad electrical connections or the damper in the guage which is normally some kind of friction on the shaft wears out.
Bi metalic strips are used for temperature sensing as the different metals expand at different rates and bend the strip but they are not use very much in the automotive industry.
Hope that helps a bit.
Rob
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Last edited by RobWheatley on Sat May 30, 2009 8:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 8:30 pm    Post subject: fuel gauge Reply with quote

Thanks, Rob. When I got to thinking about it, I remembered the sensor had a wound wire. Also figured the Motometer gauges are poorly damped.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry- can't help it..........

the word is gauge


We now return you to the regularly scheduled program
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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