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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:11 pm Post subject: Fork top cap |
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So in the cruice control thread you will see I managed to strip the thread of the fork filler in the port side fork cap. So if I take it out, I am sure I can get it helicoiled to fix it, but it won't screw out now either. Being an Allen key there's no way to grab onto it. Looking under the cap there's a plate with 4 little holes in it. If I could get that out I could push the filler screw out. But I can't see how to remove that plate (part#31422312062). Anyone know how I can either pull on the allen key filler cap or remove that plate? _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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That plate is holding your fork springs in the tube. Sears may have a tool that will remove a bunged up allen nut. _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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If you need a replacement fork cap and bolt, PayPal me $25 USD and it will go out International Priority Mail tomorrow. (Over half of that is shipping.) _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry, not that plate, it's the one up inside the fork cap itself. It's a thin plate. I'll take a photo. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Sorry, not that plate, it's the one up inside the fork cap itself. |
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/Diagrams/B0000573.png?v=22359675
#10? I don't know how to remove it without removing the cap. You're screwed! No, why don't you just take #9 off and work on it that way? _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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I can get #9 off the fork no problems, but can't see how to get #7 out from #9 without removing #10. #7 is stuck so thought I could go through from underneath to "encourage" it out but #10 is in the way.
I'll play with it (the cap that is ) tonight and if no luck I'll send money to FD and take up his wonderful offer.
It seems to be OK in the meantime, nothing leaked or popped out on yesterdays ride. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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kamu
Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Posts: 23 Location: Big Island of Hawaii
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:16 am Post subject: |
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If you have a replacement for 7 and 10 won't spin or you can keep it from spinning you can do one of two things.
1. Get an EZ out and drill through the center (and straight) and try to take it out that way. If you haven't used one before I could guide you on that.
2. If you know what the thread diameter is you can look up or ask me what the tap drill size is then drill it out with that drill (not the thread diameter) then retap the hole with the proper tap which usually will clean out the material left from the old screw. |
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heatmizr
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 16 Location: Charlotte NC
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Hi, I will be looking at a fork service very soon.
I have been studying the above-referenced diagram. What exactly is the little screw (#7) for?
Excuse the ignorance please; this bike is completely new to me and I am trying to absorb as much info as I can! _________________ Todd Glasier in Charlotte, NC
1996 k1100rs (on loan)
2002 RC1
2000 VFR |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:10 am Post subject: |
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If you are only do a fork oil change, you take that screw out, and using a funnel with a small tube stuck on the end that's how you put the new oil in.
Then screw it back in without overtightening it like I did!!! _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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joeangi Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 291 Location: Westchester, New York
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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The fork cap threads are very thin, and they strip out fairly easily (as you have found). The washer with the holes in it jut sits on top, and allows the fork fluid to flow through. If you have the front suspension "up" no weight on it, unscrew the fork top cap...and push out the allen screw. I do not know if there is enough "meat" for a helicoil. I have heard that another aluminum washer under the allen screw will raise it enough to get some bite. It only needs a light tightening.
You might also have luck if you can get a friend with two small screwdrivers to gently pry up on the allen screw, as you turn it.
Drakes offer is the surefire fix.....
Joe _________________ 1994 K1100RS
1986 K100RS |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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| heatmizr wrote: | | Hi, I will be looking at a fork service very soon. |
Be VERY careful when you put the fork drain plug back in. They strip easily. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:41 pm Post subject: fork fill cap |
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drikko - I seriously doubt you stripped that trying to remove it - it was very likely stripped by the last person who put it in. The last dealer I took the K to all but stripped one of those fill caps out - that's why that was the last time I took the bike to a dealer... _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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I do agree, I haven't stripped a bolt in my life and have done a shedload of this stuff.... The filler bolt was incredibly hard to get out, I reckon they overtightened it, stripped it so they locktited it back in!. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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