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Throttle body sync

 
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joeangi
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 291
Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:59 am    Post subject: Throttle body sync Reply with quote

I attempted my first throttle body sync and had a few questions:

The brass screws were all like 2 1/2 turns out. As per Drakes instructions, I changed them to 1 1/2 turns. I got them to all sync at idle fairly nicely, bt when you open the throttle they are "out of sync". Is there a preferred RPM range that this should be done? If I remember correctly vacuum is highest at idle, so that should be the most accurate place to match them? Or, should they be matched at 4-5000 rpms? I find just moving the "choke" that they change.

Thanks for any advice. BTW all my vacuum caps were all split, so anything is probably going to be much better.

Joe
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tmoons
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Joined: 09 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Throttle body sync Reply with quote

joeangi wrote:
I attempted my first throttle body sync and had a few questions:

The brass screws were all like 2 1/2 turns out. As per Drakes instructions, I changed them to 1 1/2 turns. I got them to all sync at idle fairly nicely, bt when you open the throttle they are "out of sync". Is there a preferred RPM range that this should be done? If I remember correctly vacuum is highest at idle, so that should be the most accurate place to match them? Or, should they be matched at 4-5000 rpms? I find just moving the "choke" that they change.

Thanks for any advice. BTW all my vacuum caps were all split, so anything is probably going to be much better.

Joe


Hi Joe,

Are you sure the other rubber parts are not in the same state as the vacuumcaps?
If they are also old and worn, you will not get the thing syncho-ed.

specially the ones under the stubs where the injectors go in.
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe,

I sync them at idle. I think that to even them out above idle requires that you adjust the "forbidden-to-touch" linkage screws- the ones with the yellow paint on them. Many suggest that the Earth's rotation will be affected if you mess with them. Laughing

Seriously- those linkage screws are supposedly set at the factory on a flow bench (if a P.O. didn't mess with them before you got the bike)

Good luck,
John
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joeangi
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 291
Location: Westchester, New York

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had checked the rubber parts...The boots looked good. I did find other hoses that were cracked (and replaced). The vac caps still hold, but they are all starting to crack up the sides, so best to replace them.

Joe
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joeangi
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "do not touch"screws have not been tampered with...thank goodness. I knew it was bad, but I had no idea about altering the rotation. If I had known, maybe we could have had nicer weather sooner this year??

They all sync'd up fine at idle (all approx. 1 1/2 turns out)

Joe
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RAL88
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Joined: 28 Apr 2004
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Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Seriously- those linkage screws are supposedly set at the factory on a flow bench (if a P.O. didn't mess with them before you got the bike)


Well I can tell you they are not synced on a flow bench. From what I was told by a BMW guy who has been riding for as long as I have been alive the butterflies are set by hand and sighte and then they are set from the brass vacuum screws on the bike. I can concure with this. When I did mine via the never to be touched screws the butterflies were way off. I adjusted the butterflies with my carbtune, set the screws and then synced the throttle bodies with the brass screws. When I did this I lost pretty much all the buzziness and vibration.
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