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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 397
Location: West of Ireland
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 Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:50 pm Post subject: Windshield |
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Hello - been away a while - but now I'm in trouble I'm back !
Welllll being dumb I forgot and moved the windshield on the motorway.
It now pulls the left side down faster leaving it 'skeways'.
Any idea what I need before I take it apart. I hear a clicking noise when I operate it I presume it's skipping splines or cogs.
I had it out a few years ago for maintenance so it was in good shape.
Thanks in advance.
My other bike 'got dropped' so I don't want to begin something......... |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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They tend to work better if you give them a little TLC every spring.
Mainly a little lubricant on the sliders goes a long way.
I'ts possible that the small tubes that the gear driven shafts ride in could be starting to gum up with dirt.
I took mine apart and cleaned the tubes out very thuroughly last fall, and at the same time I had to replace the drive gear as it was worn.
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Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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+1 on what Scott said, plus it's possible that the the rails slipped up on the cogs as you thought. Pop the motor off and bottoming out the rails should fix it, but as said you would be well served in taking a look at the guides/arms of the mechanism.
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 397
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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That seems 'not too bad' It is all cleaned up inside as it's not long sinc I had to do a repair.
Thanks guys. |
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Ragman
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 26 Mar 2008
Posts: 97
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| Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Grid - Right on. Worked as posted.
Thanx, Rag.
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~Thomas Jefferson
1995 K1100LT
1980 Hadley Giggleson FLHC |
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Ragman wrote: | Grid - Right on. Worked as posted.
Thanx, Rag. |
Don't thank me, I'm just a fkn idiot who read it somewhere long ago and regurgitated the info. 
Glad it worked out for you.
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Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | They tend to work better if you give them a little TLC every spring.
Mainly a little lubricant on the sliders goes a long way.
I'ts possible that the small tubes that the gear driven shafts ride in could be starting to gum up with dirt.
I took mine apart and cleaned the tubes out very thuroughly last fall, and at the same time I had to replace the drive gear as it was worn. |
Hey Scott,
When you say drive gear, are you refering to the motor attachement? reason I ask is that I think the motor is O.K. on mine although the cogs on the top ent of the drive motor may be locked up? How hard is it to pull apart the cog area?
Lou
95LT |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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Can't say for sure, I haven't tried to pull the assembly apart. The gear I was refering too is the final(last) worm type gear that engages the flexible runners.
The gear by itself is not available for purchase, I bought a dead drive motor for the gear.
I thougt I had some pictures of the work but I can't seem to find them yet.
If I find them I'll post them.
_________________
Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | | The gear by itself is not available for purchase, I bought a dead drive motor for the gear. |
It's easy to pull apart.
If the gear on the motor is OK then you need part 46632309700.
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | Scott_Anderson wrote: | | The gear by itself is not available for purchase, I bought a dead drive motor for the gear. |
It's easy to pull apart.
Besides the blue plastic cam that operates the micro switch and the actual wheel bezell that drives the windscreen sliders, what else is in there, is it just a matter of pulling back the crimped areas and then just lift out?
I had the motor side of it apart and it felt really tight to turn making me think that the cog wheels must be stuffed?
Is this part number the wheel bezel? or the shaft that is in line with the electric motor?
Cheers
Lou
95LT
If the gear on the motor is OK then you need part 46632309700. |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:10 am Post subject: |
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The driving wheel gear was the one I was refering to as not being able to find new. Mine was worn down and not 100% engaging the flexible sliders.
If someone can find them let me know I'd like to buy a couple of them.
_________________
Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | The driving wheel gear was the one I was refering to as not being able to find new. Mine was worn down and not 100% engaging the flexible sliders.
If someone can find them let me know I'd like to buy a couple of them. |
Scott,
I ended up pulling the whole thing apart tonight, using a small screw driver and small hammer I pushed back the 4 folded edges and the whole plate that also holds on the micro switch came off, There is a white plastic cog in there, with the red plasitc insert that you can see on the back end of the bezel unit. I also pulled apart the the electrical motor, turning by hand there was heaps of resitance, I then cleaned out what looks like a cork screw which drives the bezel with carby cleaner, still lots of resistance, there is a retainer clip that holds the motor shaft up to the corck screw thingy, (It is a larger version of the clips that hold in the black plastic square vent on the LT lower fairing might be known as a speed clip) I used a scribe and released some of the pressure
off retainer which made it spin alot more freely, I hooked it up to a battery with jumper leads and the motor works, now it's just a matter of cleaning up the sliders, and greasing up all the moving parts and putting it back together.
Wonder how much this resistance has effected the motor in the past and put undue pressure on the bezel? to put the backing on the electric motor side, I used some fishing line to hold back the brushes, and a third hand wasn't required, what made me determine to have a go at it was the fact that a second hand unit here was $350 AUD so it was a case of fix it or place it in a position that will suite forever and just put up with no adjustment?
HTH
Lou
95LT |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:12 am Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | The driving wheel gear was the one I was refering to as not being able to find new. Mine was worn down and not 100% engaging the flexible sliders.
If someone can find them let me know I'd like to buy a couple of them. |
Scott,
I ended up pulling the whole thing apart tonight, using a small screw driver and small hammer I pushed back the 4 folded edges and the whole plate that also holds on the micro switch came off, There is a white plastic cog in there, with the red plasitc insert that you can see on the back end of the bezel unit. I also pulled apart the the electrical motor, turning by hand there was heaps of resitance, I then cleaned out what looks like a cork screw which drives the bezel with carby cleaner, still lots of resistance, there is a retainer clip that holds the motor shaft up to the corck screw thingy, (It is a larger version of the clips that hold in the black plastic square vent on the LT lower fairing might be known as a speed clip) I used a scribe and released some of the pressure
off retainer which made it spin alot more freely, I hooked it up to a battery with jumper leads and the motor works, now it's just a matter of cleaning up the sliders, and greasing up all the moving parts and putting it back together.
Wonder how much this resistance has effected the motor in the past and put undue pressure on the bezel? to put the backing on the electric motor side, I used some fishing line to hold back the brushes, and a third hand wasn't required, what made me determine to have a go at it was the fact that a second hand unit here was $350 AUD so it was a case of fix it or place it in a position that will suite forever and just put up with no adjustment?
HTH
Lou
95LT |
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:15 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | a second hand unit here was $350 AUD |
Whereabouts was that available? Mine seems to have died permanently and the local dealer quoted around $600 for a new one, ex Germany!
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David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:23 am Post subject: |
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| robleyd wrote: | | Quote: | | a second hand unit here was $350 AUD |
Whereabouts was that available? Mine seems to have died permanently and the local dealer quoted around $600 for a new one, ex Germany! |
Discount Motorcycle Wreckers in Victoria had one when I phoned yesterday!! Make sure that your Relay's are O.K. also? as that might be the problem, start with the cheapest part first?
Lou
95LT |
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:28 am Post subject: |
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All else is well, the motor was tested outside the bike and found to be, well, lacking 
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David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:33 am Post subject: |
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| robleyd wrote: | | All else is well, the motor was tested outside the bike and found to be, well, lacking |
That's how mine was, it cost my time to pull it apart with no parts required and it is now workin? When I put it back together tomorrow I'll let you know the outcome, pitty your so far away.
I could take a picture of it pulled apart if that helps you, only thing is that my pictures are 4Mb and I don't know how to make them smaller?
Lou
95LT |
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia
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| Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Pictures might help if you can - there is a nice free piece of software called Irfanview that will allow you to resize and do other things assuming you are using Windows. I can give you some help with the resizing if you need it.
http://www.irfanview.com/
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David, owner of:
1996 K1100 LT |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| beemeerr11 wrote: | | robleyd wrote: | | All else is well, the motor was tested outside the bike and found to be, well, lacking |
That's how mine was, it cost my time to pull it apart with no parts required and it is now workin? When I put it back together tomorrow I'll let you know the outcome, pitty your so far away.
I could take a picture of it pulled apart if that helps you, only thing is that my pictures are 4Mb and I don't know how to make them smaller?
Lou
95LT |
I've hit a snag, I can get the motor to work with direct current, but when I put it through the electrical connectors the motor won't work, Switch had a broken wire, wire repaired Fuse was blown, (very bottom) fuse replaced, now I can't hear the relay's clicking, can anyone tell me how to test the relay's or if there is a substitute replcacement for them?
Lou
95LT |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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| beemeerr11 wrote: | | beemeerr11 wrote: | | robleyd wrote: | | All else is well, the motor was tested outside the bike and found to be, well, lacking |
That's how mine was, it cost my time to pull it apart with no parts required and it is now workin? When I put it back together tomorrow I'll let you know the outcome, pitty your so far away.
I could take a picture of it pulled apart if that helps you, only thing is that my pictures are 4Mb and I don't know how to make them smaller?
Lou
95LT |
I've hit a snag, I can get the motor to work with direct current, but when I put it through the electrical connectors the motor won't work, Switch had a broken wire, wire repaired Fuse was blown, (very bottom) fuse replaced, now I can't hear the relay's clicking, can anyone tell me how to test the relay's or if there is a substitute replcacement for them?
Lou
95LT |
Homework!!!!!!
Narva part No. 68070 |
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