K11 Owners Group

[malcolmt]

I'm changing the fork seals on my K11RS and hoping to do it without removing the stantions.

The left slider more or less slid right off without removing the seal. This is the side which is leaking The right side aint being as cooperative

Can anyone tell me if this is an indication of wear in right side or a hassle in the left side.

I'm having a hard time getting the left side clip out with the stantion on the bike, tomorrow I'll pull the stantion off and have another shot.

Are there any tips for gtting the circlips out ?


Cheers
Malcolm(t)
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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[Naked Hoof]

Try this page:

http://www.verrill.com/moto/tech/k11springs/k11springs.shtml
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79 Honda CB750 trainer
traded for Suzuki GS1150e (stolen)
81 Honda CB900F
02 Kawasaki ZR7 (cursed)
93 K1100RS Mystic Red

Dreams should never be reduced in potency by subjecting them to reality. - Lord Snarebottom

[whyoldbill]

[Naked Hoof]

[malcolmt]

I'll have another "fiddle about" this evening.
its certainly trickier than changing the seals on the ol' k75.
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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[DaveVoorhis]

[jpberens1994K1100RS]

+1 what he said.
I did it this way too! Only took a minute.


"Puncture the edge of the fork seal with a punch or small screwdriver and violently mangle it and rip it out from under the circlip. Try not to scratch where the seal seats in the fork. Without the seal under it, the circlip pops out easily.

You're replacing the seal anyway, so there's no point being nice to it.
_________________
'93 K1100RS
Dave #3"
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

[malcolmt]

The plot sickens...

One fork leg is dismantled with out hassles.
The other is giving me (more) grey hair. The stanchion is off the bike, the cap screw is removed from the bottom of the slider, the seal is out, the bush which fits under the seal is also out.

The slider WONT pull off the stanchion and only thing I can see causing thi is the bush on the end of the stanchion. I've tried some taps with a rubber mallet on the slider, it don't shift it.

Does anyone have any ideas if anything else could be stopping slider slidin off ???

Cheers
Malcolm(t)
_________________
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************

[jpberens1994K1100RS]

The bushings are extremely worn!

You will NEED / WANT to replace those bronze bushings!


To get the slider off, you can wiggle side to side WHILE turning your wrist and twisting the lower.

Start out gingerly and work up a fairly firm amount of downward pressure.

Mine was stuck on too and doing this released it.
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

[malcolmt]

Well, I wiggles and jiggled for what seemed an eternity without any luck.
The wife dropped it off at BMW hoping they had a few tricks up their sleeve to shift it.

All she got was a mouthful of crap from the service manager about not bringing the bike to them to do the job. And these people wonder why I prefer to do work myself.

Its looking like I’ll be sawing the bottom of the slider and whacking the remains over the top of the stanchion.

Watch this space.
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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[joeangi]

I had the same problem...worked on it for days. Tried heat, slide hammer everything I could think of. I even slid a piece of sandpaper down, and rotated the tube figuring I could get a couple thousands off, and it would come out. No luck at all. Finally, I took it to a local welder, he took a long rod, put it through the hole in the bottom of the fork. The cap was on the fork tube, and he propped the lower between the ears of a vice and wacked it with a small sledge......it came right out. What had happened was the lower "bearing" had expanded slightly, and it had become cocked in its groove. Thus, everytime you pulled up on the stanchion, it was tightening up. Like a split collar. You can pull on it all you want, it is just getting tighter. I had sprayed wd-40 and all kinds of lubricants....nothing worked. Try the bang it out route. Go to home depot and get a rod that is just as large as the bottom hole. I would put a plate or washer or something under the fork cap to protect it as best as possible. Some wood on the ears of the vice couldn't hurt and give it a good shot.

Good luck,
Joe
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1994 K1100RS
1986 K100RS

[sdaniel]

I just did both sides tonight.

1. I Left the oil in the forks and removed the bottom bolt to slide off the lower portion. I think it was an 8MM I used a T handle. VERY tight.
2. I let the oil drain from there.
3. Both sides slid off easily.
4. The spring clips weren't that difficult.
4. A small spray can is the perfect size for seating the new seals.

It was MUCH more difficult replacing the steel bobbins on the front rotors than the entire seal job.


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1993 K1100LT

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.

[malcolmt]

The jammed stanchion and slider came back from BMW yesterday.
They sent it to an engineering company who got it apart.

One bonus is they didnt charge for the work.
But...

I've now got a bag of parts and arn't too sure about two of them.
Does the spring have the close wound coils to the top or bottom ??

There is a plastic tube spacer about 75mm long.
Does the shock absorber rod pass through the spacer and the spacer sit directly under the pad like the pic ??
The spacer could be part 14



_________________
******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************