K11 Owners Group

tibbe

Hi.

I'm having leaking seals at the input shaft on the tranny, in both ends.
Both on the end where tha clutch plate are and on the other end the the pushrod for the clutch runnes inside the input shaft.
And tips and trixs on how to change this seals preferable w/o taking apart the tranny.

/Sven-Erik

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:49 pm Post subject:

What make you think you are leaking at the rear one?

You are supposed to have some oil to lubricate the pushrod cup bearings. The oil is then "sealed" in by the cup boot.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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tibbe · Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 4:56 am Post subject:

A slipping clutch, oil on the clutch and a glearly noticable amount on the frontend of the tranny.
Oil on the pushrod, all the way!

Will get the parts tomorrow. Sealings, pushrod, clutchplate new washers for the 6 clutchbolts.

Will be a "challange" to shift the sealings, will try with a hookshaped wire and a screwdriver to push them out. And grind the inputshaft with a special grinder.

/Tibbe

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:09 am Post subject:

Oil on the length of the pushrod is usually a sign that the O-ring on the rear of the pushrod is bad.
That's what supposed to keep the oil in the back side and not let it migrate up to the clutch.

You should be able to replace the seals and just the O-ring without replacing the entire pushrod.

Sounds like you got a little mess there, and a good grasp of it.

Good luck.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

tibbe · Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:28 am Post subject:

Mess yes.
Changed the compleate clutch 2 y ago as the pressureplates was not flat.
Saw a bit of oil on the clutchhouse but neglecting it.

Also forget to take out the pushrod before the tranny, pushrod got bent and I straitened it up.

Bottom line, next time I'm in for splining lube (clutch) I will look for signs of oil. And if so imidiatly change the sealings.

This cost me some $$ and some nice wrenching time.
A course, needed that wrench 2y ago as my wife was not well from cancer, and maybee my head was occupied by other things.
We lost the cancer-fight 3 mounths later.

Will get the parts tomorrow, ,, really fast delivery even this far north in "widerness".

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:25 am Post subject:

gpzoduibh · Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:05 pm Post subject:

As duck says its a pig to get out its a normal lip seal kind of put in backwards , I used a a large wood screw to grip its centre hole , if you have a good selection you may find one that fits well enough , I had to butcher mine a bit eventually tapping a very fine screwdriver down the side between seal and shaft ! I put a little silicone smear on the new one before it went in to seal its seating its fine now ,
Good luck
Bill
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1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
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1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
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1990 Honda XR250R

tibbe · Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 3:17 am Post subject:

Thanks for all the tips.
The seal at at the pushrod was a PITA. Used a small screwdrived and tapped it in arround the side.
Finally tapped a crack the bottom of the seal and got it out.
The seal at the clutchside was out in a blink.
Getting the new seals in was not that difficult.
Clutch and tranny back.
That supportframe for the footpegs under the ABS and Battery back, that's always a "challange", not to mention the rear bolts for the starter.
Swing and all the rear parts back this evening.
Had aslo cracks in the exhaust, welded them yesterday.
BTW: put in a new airtfilter just after 2 years, it was full of dust and sand.
Can it be a connection beween cracked faring frame, gone stearing- and swing bearrings and having fun with the bike on gravelroads.
http://wbsp.arb.ltu.se/EuroPrez/movie-index/gravel-ride-sept09

Off to Oulo in Finland tomorrow with the local BMW club for the weekend. (
A perfect testride as I will start ny anual 8000km tour trough Europe.

Ted · Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 9:42 am Post subject:

tibbe · Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 9:47 am Post subject:

Ok ok ok but the tranny are back.
Though a "inovative" support of the rear while the removing the tranny.

Or from the trip this year arround europe?
Last year: http://wbsp.arb.ltu.se/EuroPrez/images/ep14
Roadside wrenching:
- Changing forksealing on Landquart Swiss.
http://picasaweb.google.com/luletibbe/PreEP14#5364722072093006402

- Stearing hear bearrings change and cracked frame mount Kalmar Sweden.
http://picasaweb.google.com/luletibbe/PostEP#5364745113888641410

- Strange beemer among dirt bikes: http://picasaweb.google.com/luletibbe/Gravel_course#5364748630438074674

More picsa to come.
/Sven-Erik

tibbe · Posted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:51 pm Post subject:

Ted: pictures: http://picasaweb.google.se/luletibbe/Lulea_may_2010#5484215304995350914

All back and tested on the road to finland tomorrow.

PS. made the support of the rear frame as a inverted 2/3 of a "steward" mounting of actuators for flight simulators, IMHO very stable.

tibbe · Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:15 pm Post subject:

Fine trip to Finland, and a great evening in a russian restaurant.
On the way back the bike was noisy in the front at 140kmh / 85mph.
Turned out to be worned out rollers in the front disks.
Changes them today, was a little tricky with the rollers with spring or to say more of a plesant challange. Changed the breakpads rear and will change the front pads on thursday.
Those bikes needs a bit of maintance, but related to other brands not so so much.

Ernie-NH · Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:28 pm Post subject:

Good morning Tibbe....

Say... whats this all about ???

You said...""And grind the inputshaft with a special grinder. """

Remember that any sealing surface ( ie: shaft ) MUST be "plunge ground" or you will introduce a leak that cannot be repaired !

Best regards and thanks for all the pics.!

Ernie-NH
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