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slipperyox
Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Posts: 30
Location: Former republic of Ireland
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 Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:46 pm Post subject: clutch replacement update |
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After searching, Just thought I'd share some opinions on changing the clutch, rear oil seal etc,
I have done this twice before on a K100, but it is slightly harder with the k11, due to abs and a more complicated battery frame and fittings.
Removal:
absII does not need to be removed, cable tie with 2/3 cables to frame at top to clear from gearbox path.
Tie both handlebars to roof ceiling to aid stability, while jacking the sump on a support.
Remove gearbox with reardrive minus rear wheel using trolley jack and board/plank.
Installation:
Wood and lump hammer seats new rear seal nicely.
Align clutch by eye, a centre tool is not really needed.
Using jack trolley, move gearbox/ rear drive under bike and bolt to rear shock.
You can then use this as a pivot to raise jack and position gearbox to mate. Put in gear and turn rear hub to align, the return to neutral to hammer home!.
I have used Loctite 8154 MoS2 Assembly Paste, as a lubricant for the clutch/splines.
The battery frame also got grinded on the front right, left hand side. so it could be fitted after the gearbox, maybe there is a trick to this...but I have no patience for that. A notch 1cm x 1cm was removed to aid fitting via a grinder:) This was my biggest concern...
Total time = dissassembly 4 hrs*. reassembly <5 hrs
*1 hr to remove exhaust studs which I replaced with zinc coated steel bolts and stainless metal locknuts.
Time consumming but not a difficult job.
P.S. this is not a step by step guide 
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Luck is when planning and opportunity meet |
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:11 pm Post subject: Re: clutch replacement update |
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| slipperyox wrote: | | P.S. this is not a step by step guide |
Nothing ever is DAMHIK.
Great post.
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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m1ks
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Sep 2009
Posts: 122
Location: Skye, Highlands
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| Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 2:29 pm Post subject: Re: clutch replacement update |
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| slipperyox wrote: |
*1 hr to remove exhaust studs which I replaced with zinc coated steel bolts and stainless metal locknuts.
Time consumming but not a difficult job.
P.S. this is not a step by step guide |
Thanks for the useful post, always good to hear and see how someone does these things.
How bad were your exhaust studs? and how were they removed?
I have a set of nice shiny new ones complete with nuts to go on when I replace my stock system with a Remus one I picked up.
(the original is seperated where one header meets the collector and I think this is why i'm getting a misfiring problem, can get it repaired once off but as I got the stainless remus one..........
The studs are completely shot as are the nut heads so i'm looking for the easiest way to get them out.
(not yet of course as we're under lots of snow up here)
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I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered! |
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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio
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| Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 2:44 pm Post subject: Re: clutch replacement update |
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| m1ks wrote: |
and how were they removed?
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Not sure of the availability over in your part of the world, but I used a "MAPP Gas" torch to heat my exhaust bolts. Propane didn't seem to get hot enough.
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'02 - GL1800
The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton |
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slipperyox
Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Posts: 30
Location: Former republic of Ireland
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| Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Thats exactly what I used whyoldbill. mapp gas in the yellow tank!!
The old nuts were not nuts any more, so I hammered on the next best fit socket, which sometimes included imperial sizes for a snug fit..
BTW, 3 or 4 heat cool shock cycles first with penetrating spray works wonders, and 1 or 2 of the studs/bolts require vicegrips as the sockets cant reach them.
Interestingly, the retainers/collets are carbon steel welded to an otherwise stainless system...lol.
I also worried about the mapp gas cracking the alloy, as it was -7 C outside as I worked on my bike  though maybe this helped
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wedge
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Mar 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Wisbech, Cambs
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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| slipperyox wrote: | | carbon steel welded to an otherwise stainless system...lol. |
That's so they can sell replacements to you a few years down the line.
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Bikes:
93 K75S
93 R1100RS |
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