K11 Owners Group

Moondog · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:57 am Post subject: Audiovox Cruise on K1100RS 1996

Good morning folks,
Anybody know the p/n for the vacuum check valve on the Audiovox set up?
NAPA has all sorts but not sure which one to get. Anyone have better luck with one and not the other?

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:06 am Post subject:

BK 7301347

Or anything that looks like this:

It's a generic part and they all more or less do the same thing.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Moondog · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:28 am Post subject:

Thanks Duck

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:34 am Post subject:

The white end is a little small for the vacuum hose so be sure to seal it with some RTV/silicone adhesive.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Moondog · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:23 pm Post subject:

Hey Duck, for clarification when you say an LED brake lamp will not make the cruise control to work does that include Hyper-lites? can't seem to get this to work. Got to check my connections but don't want to waste time if the Hyper-lites are messing it up.

Jim · Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:00 pm Post subject:

I'm not Duck - but I do have Hyperlites on the K - and Audivox cc - and it works. The Hyperlites don't have anything to do with it.

If you're using the vacuum cc, make sure you are tapped into the large green coil wire - not the small one.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Moondog · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:17 am Post subject:

Well that brings up a good question. My understanding of the directions say attach to the shielded part of the wire. Shielded being a wire covering surrounding the core wire with an insulation in between the two. That is where I put the blue wire, on the shielded wiring. Is that correct or do I need to get to the core of the wire?

Mystic Red · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:25 am Post subject:

It needs to make a connection not on the outside of the shielding, if that's what you mean.
_________________
Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466

Moondog · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:00 pm Post subject:

Yes vacuum unit and 100 model. And somewhere I read about connecting
to the shield on the wire you pictured but I must have
misunderstood. That didn't make sense to me because
shielding typically go to ground and there's no power there
Well I'll move it and try again.

Mystic Red · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:42 pm Post subject:

Moondog · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:32 pm Post subject:

So Mystic did you hook up to the shield
and it worked?

Jim · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:46 pm Post subject:

Moondog - you need to connect to the wire. I don't think the shield will do you any good.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Moondog · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:05 pm Post subject:

yea thats what I am going to do. Just curious.

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:31 pm Post subject:

I don't know what shielded wire you guys are talking about. I've taken quite a few of these bikes apart and they all had just plain wire to the coils.

Here's the coil wire connection on my RS. I used a PosiTap:

LEDs:

The Audiovox brain sends a small reverse current through the brake light to make sure the brake light filament is good and that when you brake that it will sense that and disengage the cruise control. This is a safety feature.

LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes. Think of a diode as a one-way valve for electrical current. Current can only flow one way through an LED so the Audiovox cannot send that reverse current and therefore thinks your brake light is out and will never engage. If you still have the stock filament brake light bulb installed then that current has a pathway and it doesn't matter if you have add-on LEDs or not.

On my bikes I got rid of the bulb monitor unit in order to run an LED brake light bulb in the stock location. To make that work I added a relay that grounds the purple wire until the brakes are applied. This fools the CCS-100 brain into thinking it's looking at a good brake light bulb.

Another note: When I installed the CCS-100 on my K100RS4V it did not work. For the life of me I could not figure out why it wouldn't work. Then I discovered that someone had put one of the small 10W tail light bulbs in the brake light socket. When I swapped in the correct 21W bulb (1156) then the cruise control worked properly. If you're having trouble getting it to work then replacing the brake light bulb with a new 1156 might help.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Mystic Red · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:08 pm Post subject:

Well the top of line the K's had a black shield on the green wire. Razz

You need to make an electrical connection.
_________________
Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:31 pm Post subject:

Jim · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:37 am Post subject:

Moondog · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:56 am Post subject:

If you pull back the black sheathing on the wire you have Posi-tapped there is a shield wire, at least there is on mine and others. Good picture. Now I know exactly where I need to go. When I take it apart again I will take a picture of it. Actually it might be a misnomer to call it shielding because I am not sure where the other end goes. Haven't put a meter to it.

Moondog · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 6:01 am Post subject:

[quote="Flying Duck"]I don't know what shielded wire you guys are talking about. I've taken quite a few of these bikes apart and they all had just plain wire to the coils.

Here's the coil wire connection on my RS. I used a PosiTap:

LEDs:

The Audiovox brain sends a small reverse current through the brake light to make sure the brake light filament is good and that when you brake that it will sense that and disengage the cruise control. This is a safety feature.

LEDs are Light Emitting Diodes. Think of a diode as a one-way valve for electrical current. Current can only flow one way through an LED so the Audiovox cannot send that reverse current and therefore thinks your brake light is out and will never engage. If you still have the stock filament brake light bulb installed then that current has a pathway and it doesn't matter if you have add-on LEDs or not.

On my bikes I got rid of the bulb monitor unit in order to run an LED brake light bulb in the stock location. To make that work I added a relay that grounds the purple wire until the brakes are applied. This fools the CCS-100 brain into thinking it's looking at a good brake light bulb.

Another note: When I installed the CCS-100 on my K100RS4V it did not work. For the life of me I could not figure out why it wouldn't work. Then I discovered that someone had put one of the small 10W tail light bulbs in the brake light socket. When I swapped in the correct 21W bulb (1156) then the cruise control worked properly. If you're having trouble getting it to work then replacing the brake light bulb with a new 1156 might help.[/quote

I checked the bulb and it is an 1156.

Mystic Red · Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: