K11 Owners Group

AlxRogan

After my 95 K1100LT sat up for a while, I got it back running with some fuel pump issues, however I had a problem with my right turn signal sticking. After I opened up the switch housing, I was able to clear out the turn signal switch but in doing so, i could not figure out how to reassemble the turn signal cancel button. I had the spring, metal piece (?), and button, but couldn't find out how to place the spring to cause the button to return.

After a couple of hours trying different ways, the spring got lost. I have it reassembled without the spring, so I just have to lower the button manually. Anyone have experience with the cancel switch assembly and how the spring is used? Also, anyone have a good source or replacement for the spring?

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:14 pm Post subject:

Can't say as I know a source for just the spring. You may just need to replace the RH combo switch assy. They are usually frequently available of flea-bay, and Drake has one listed here

http://www.kbikeparts.com/

for $40.
He may have more that aren't listed.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:08 pm Post subject:

PM me your address. I think I can dig up a spare spring for you.

You owe me a beer. (Or two.) Very Happy

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

AlxRogan · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:46 am Post subject:

PM sent.

I'll definitely provide the beers if I make it up there, or if you end up down here. Smile

I've been trying to find a schematic of the inside of that combo switch assembly, but I can't seem to get anywhere with it.

I tried mounting that spring directly behind the plastic wedge, in a few places, that actuates the cancel switch, but none of them worked or stayed in place. I can't visualize how that spring goes to provide tension against which the button operates, so if anyone has advice on that, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:33 am Post subject:

The easiest way to figure it out would be to take the horn switch apart. Works the same way.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

AlxRogan · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:35 am Post subject:

Makes sense. I'll see if I can _carefully_ take that apart without losing more springs.
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:51 am Post subject:

Here's a horn button. Turn signal cancel works the same way.

It's easiest to do the screw with the button depressed.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

AlxRogan · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:53 am Post subject:

Wow...that's awesome! I had you down for domestic microbrew first, now you're upgraded to imported/whatever your favorite liquor is. Wink

Thanks again!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

wedge · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject:

I'm sure you'll have a jar or something full of working and non working click-top biros somewhere. I've used springs from these to fix switchgear before (try a few to get the right diameter)

Just make sure you cut it to length with clippers, not scissors. (unless you have a desperate need for blunt scissors, they're tougher than you think they're gonna be)
_________________
Bikes:
93 K75S
93 R1100RS

AlxRogan · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:58 pm Post subject:

That's an excellent idea, I didn't think of that. I'll go through my junk drawer when I get home and see if any of them fit the bill.

Thanks!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

AlxRogan · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:58 pm Post subject:

I swear to all that's holy and good, I am at the bitter end with this.

I've got a spring to work and the signal cancel is good again, however I cannot determine why the right turn signal keeps turning itself on and won't cancel. Sometimes I can press the signal switch, then cancel it, sometimes it won't. I've been through the switchgear, but I cannot find a short.

I pulled the tank up and traced the bundle of wires to the connector. When the power is off, the cancel switch operates normally when tested with a voltmeter. When the power is on, the cancel switch stays closed, it won't open at all. As I was troubleshooting this, I guess I accidentally ran an alligator clip over the starter leads, because the starter kicked over for a turn. Now the bike won't start at all, and the thrice damned turn signal still won't shut off.

All the fuses look good, and it's not the switchgear, I can short the two pins that are for the starter and nothing happens. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

old guy old bike · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:11 pm Post subject:

It's your turn signal relay. Do a search for sticky blinker.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:28 pm Post subject:

AlxRogan · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:30 pm Post subject:

That makes sense about the turn signal, but could that also be affecting the starter?
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

AlxRogan · Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 10:01 pm Post subject:

That makes sense. I just whacked the relay and it didn't stop it. Since it's so irregular, the starter is next I guess. Looks like my weekend is planned now.

Thanks for the assistance!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

AlxRogan · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:02 pm Post subject:

Ok...last post on this topic. I spent about 4 hours this past Sunday trying to remove the starter to do the cleaning, but I couldn't get enough clearance around the ABS and alternator cap to get the hex bolts off. I removed the bolts to the bottom pan that the ABS is tied to, but still not enough room. In the process, I'm pretty sure I stripped out one of the bolts. I ended up bump starting it and driving into the shop.

Just got the call, it was the neutral switch, which they claim is 5 hours labor to replace it. That won't be an issue as they say I can still start it with the clutch in, but they also found that my front brake master cylinder has a leak, so that's gotta be fixed.

For a 5 hour fix, I'm guessing the neutral switch they describe is inside the transmission housing or something. If it's something external that's not too difficult of a replacement, I might dig into it.

Regardless, thanks to everyone for their assistance and help, it's much appreciated!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:25 pm Post subject:

Five hours of labor is a little on the steep side but you do have to remove the rear wheel final drive and swing arm to access it. I could do it in two hours - and that's with beer involved.

At SOME point you do want to get it fixed though because if/when your clutch switch fails you won't be able to start the bike.

If the clutch switch does fail and strand you then you can jump the connection for the gear position indicator to get the bike to start. Just short the brown wire at the connector to the three other yellow/(other color) wires. When the bike is in neutral all of those wires being grounded tells the instrument cluster that.

The other option would be to cut the wires to the clutch switch(you're going to have to replace it anyhow) and short them to each other.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

AlxRogan · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:34 pm Post subject:

With my track record so far, I'd be hesitant to try and remove the final drive and swingarm without causing more problems. Smile

Shorting the clutch switch wires seems to be a popular solution from a quick search, so while I'm not crazy about disabling safety systems, I don't want to be left on the side of the road again.

thanks!
_________________
95 K1100LT, 60k miles
83 Honda Shadow 750
74 MZ TS250