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Alternator removal...1997 K1100LT SE

 
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rgscomp
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Feb 2009
Posts: 33
Location: Kidlington, Oxfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:38 pm    Post subject: Alternator removal...1997 K1100LT SE Reply with quote

I had a look at this job today as I want to replace the cush drive rubbers and followed the manual to remove ECU, battery and the various covers. Two of the alternator bolts were easy, sort of 11 o'clock and 3 o'clock viewed from the rear.

Now I think there is a third bolt but couldn't actually find it with the limited access.
So is there a third bolt and roughly where is it?

The manuals (Clymer and a BMW reprint) say the alternator leads are plugged into the back of the alternator, but mine seems to have stud connections at about 9 o'clock viewed from rear and really tricky to access next to the starter.

I was hoping not to have to remove the ABS2 unit, but it's hard to see that there is enough space to remove the alternator rearwards.

Any hints or suggestions?

Cheers,

Ray.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're 120 degrees from each other. Make sure you use a sturdy tool as the threads on those bolts tend to be corroded.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not impossible but you are going to have a biatch of a time getting the alt out over the rear brake line that goes from the rear m.c. to the abs system.
It is a whole lot less knuckle busting to remove the brake line 1st. You can leave the battery tray in, but get the steel brake line out.
And yes that 3rd bolt is at about 7 o'clock.
DAMHIK

Others may say otherwise but......
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,

Didn't you have a good combination of slip and stick stuff to help get the new monkey nuts in?

John
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Scott,

Didn't you have a good combination of slip and stick stuff to help get the new monkey nuts in?

John


I used dab of rtv black to stick the nuts in the alt cup and a slight smear of moly 60 where they slip on the drive fingers.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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rgscomp
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Feb 2009
Posts: 33
Location: Kidlington, Oxfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, what a pain that job was. Thanks to the advice, I disconnected the rear metal brake lines but it was still really awkward getting the alternator out.

The RTV and dab of moly for reassembly was a real winner through. Once I got the alternator back in position then a) the rubbers hadn't fallen out and b) I lined up the coupling and it went on second attempt.

Now have a nice quiet K back again. The death-rattle when cold starting has completely gone so well worth the effort....
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys...

Re: ""The RTV and dab of moly for reassembly was a real winner through.""

Wasn't there a 'sticky' from Scott with pics on this Alternator job ?? Couldn't seem to find it by that name if there is..

Regards all..........// Ernie in NH
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Scott_Anderson
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I may have posted about it but I can't find that I took any pictures of it.
I had taken out the alternater to replace the regulator/brushes assy.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:33 am    Post subject: Alternator Drive Dog Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
I think I may have posted about it but I can't find that I took any pictures of it.
I had taken out the alternater to replace the regulator/brushes assy.

Any thoughts on making sure the alternator drive dog goes back in correctly. Is is just held in by the bolt or does it have to line up with splines on the gear it connects to?
It was hard to get out after removing the alternator and not exactly easy to go back in. I could not turn it by hand when removing it and can't rotate it y hand since re installing so maybe its all good???
Just concerned, as when diassembling the bike to get at the sprag clutch I was able to turn the engine by hand by grabbing on to the clutch and getting to turn 360 degrees both clock wise or counter clock wise.
I have now installed the sprag and started putting the clutch, pressure etc. back in the machine, and I discovered that now I can not turn this by hand. Could it be because my old sprag was in pieces before removal? Now the new one is in. I just thought I would be able to turn the clutch plate one direction or the other by hand.
I'm wondering if the Alternator drive dog (if not installed correctly) would bind it up. I'm thinking maybe I tightened the alt. drive dog too much. Or is this is normal??
I suspect I should be able to turn the egnine by rotating the clutch plate by hand. I had to block off the clutch just to keep it from spinning while I was removing it. So I wa expcting something similar during re-assembly.

Any thoughts anyone?
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