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throttle body sync
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blue95lt
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 230
Location: Franklin In.

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 11:20 pm    Post subject: throttle body sync Reply with quote

Ernie N.Hampshre u on? I need to sync. my throttle bodies!pm if u like.did u go thru all the steps indetail again so I can do it .did u follow the chilton manual to the letter?a)timing corect b.)new plugs.C)new plugs?c)valve clearence adjusted and so on?
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1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never done this.

Is it hard to do?
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be good to know how to do this.

FD used to say it was the essence of a buzzless K11 Wink

If anyone has the energy please step us through.

I have a manometer but not sure what to do with it Embarassed Rolling Eyes

all the best
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Shoganai
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

merlin geikie wrote:
I have a manometer but not sure what to do with it Embarassed Rolling Eyes


I have one AND know how to use it Twisted Evil




oh...



I thought you said a man-o-meter Shocked


carry on. Embarassed
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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blue95lt
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 230
Location: Franklin In.

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:58 pm    Post subject: bust up Reply with quote

Gwyn you crack me up!! thx for being you!!
keith
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1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)
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leecow
Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Location: Edmonds, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the Duck tb sync walkthrough. http://smithduck.home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/tech/tbsynch/tbsynch.htm
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'93 K1100RS
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, you need a "depressiometer", a way to measure a difference of pressure. You can build one like this one, I made it from aquarium equipment, it works for 2, 3 or 4 cylinders:

But I finally aquired a less bulky one, the twinmax is nice, even though you can only synchronize one cylinder to another at a time, once again with an aquarium "switch", I can easily change of cylinder.

The engine has to be warn, and you need to take out the left fairing, the reference cylinder is number 3 (1 is the front cylinder), the one attached to the throttle cable.

For 1000cc 16v engines, you need to unplug number 1 cylinder and add a "T" attachment between the fuel regulator, for K11 there is no such thing, remove the caps on the other cylinders.

Before you start, check that the twinmax needle is at center at maximum sensitivity.

Now you need to fully screw the 4 air "idle" screws where the pipes are plugged and run the engine between 2500-3000 rpm, either block the throttle or use the ramp idle screw (you need the shut down the engine and set full throttle to access it). Start with cylinder 4 for instance, unscrew the nut and play with the ramp screw until you have the same pressure, then screw tighly the nut back, if it is not, it will not keep synchronized. Check that it keeps synchronized after screwing the nut.

Then switch to cylinder 2 then to 1. If the ventilator runs, let it idle at 1000 rpm or turn down the engine.
Now unscrew the 4 air idle screws 1 turn and a half each, idle the engine (around 950 rpm), synchronize cylinder 4 to 3 using only the 4th cylinder ar idle screw, then cylinder 2, then cylinder 1. If you need to change cylinder 3 air idle screw, you need to resynch the 3 other air idle screws too.
If idle is too high or too low, play with the idle ramp screw, or you can play a little bit with cylinder 3 air idle screw, in all cases you need to resynch the air idle screws.

After that you need to set the TPS, you have the information on lagardier site: http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html, it is very important, if TPS is not set correctly, the bike will run very poorly. It is a good practise to check motronic defaults and reset defaults if any before synch.

With some practise, you can have a right synch in half an hour, but much more the first time, and check after a few day that it stays synchonized (if a nut is not screwed tight enough for instance, it will change).
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94 K1100LT
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not a bad idea to check the valve clearances before you warm up the engine.
At least if you know that it hasn't been done recently.
Otherwise you could be chasing your tail.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say the other way around: when you change valve clearance, resync. Whenever you feel the engine is not perfectly running, resync too.

Some say you should have new plugs before you sync.
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94 K1100LT
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merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Number 6,

I have made up a plastic pipe style manometer for my R65LS.

But now I also have a Twinmax.

The K12 motor is very similar indeed to the other K motors including indentical throttle bodies but a plastic fuel rail instead of metal.

I have just checked and adjusted my valves and so I guess a TB sync is a good idea.

Appreciate your input with this procedure and the pics,

thank you... Wink Wink
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Number 6 wrote:
I'd say the other way around: when you change valve clearance, resync. Whenever you feel the engine is not perfectly running, resync too.

Some say you should have new plugs before you sync.


I agree. That's kind of where I was going there.
Yes balance after adjusting the valve clearances, but where I was going was you could be wasting your time trying to balance if your valves are a little bit out of adjustment.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
I agree. That's kind of where I was going there.
Yes balance after adjusting the valve clearances, but where I was going was you could be wasting your time trying to balance if your valves are a little bit out of adjustment.


That's what I was thinking.

Every BMG GS we've done a sync on, we started with a valve adjustment.
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personnaly sync more often than check valve clearance.
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94 K1100LT
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blue95lt
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 230
Location: Franklin In.

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:05 pm    Post subject: sync "tool" Reply with quote

I wanted to ask Ernie NH. cause he was telling me about using hot sauce bottles as the container with rubber stoppers in top and sm. tygon tubing
Put a. t. f. fluid in bottles and it seeks its level when the vaccume is same on any two t.bodies.
Any one get Ernie's attention for me?
thx. keith(blue95lt)
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1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a little searching goes a long way --

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7695&highlight=taco+sauce

scroll down to see ernie's pictures and explanation.
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like this a lot!


http://store.beemerboneyard.com/carbtune4col.html
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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BMGraeme
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Mar 2006
Posts: 373
Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoganai wrote:
I like this a lot!


http://store.beemerboneyard.com/carbtune4col.html


Thats the one I have and works well on the K11. Next for me is to work out how to configure it for a twin so I can sync my 1200 Boxer. The clearances need doing on that every 6K but at least they are a doddle to do.
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1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:03 am    Post subject: Morgan Carb Tuner Reply with quote

Number 6 wrote:
First, you need a "depressiometer", a way to measure a difference of pressure. You can build one like this one, I made it from aquarium equipment, it works for 2, 3 or 4 cylinders:

But I finally aquired a less bulky one, the twinmax is nice, even though you can only synchronize one cylinder to another at a time, once again with an aquarium "switch", I can easily change of cylinder.

The engine has to be warn, and you need to take out the left fairing, the reference cylinder is number 3 (1 is the front cylinder), the one attached to the throttle cable.

For 1000cc 16v engines, you need to unplug number 1 cylinder and add a "T" attachment between the fuel regulator, for K11 there is no such thing, remove the caps on the other cylinders.

Before you start, check that the twinmax needle is at center at maximum sensitivity.

Now you need to fully screw the 4 air "idle" screws where the pipes are plugged and run the engine between 2500-3000 rpm, either block the throttle or use the ramp idle screw (you need the shut down the engine and set full throttle to access it). Start with cylinder 4 for instance, unscrew the nut and play with the ramp screw until you have the same pressure, then screw tighly the nut back, if it is not, it will not keep synchronized. Check that it keeps synchronized after screwing the nut.

Then switch to cylinder 2 then to 1. If the ventilator runs, let it idle at 1000 rpm or turn down the engine.
Now unscrew the 4 air idle screws 1 turn and a half each, idle the engine (around 950 rpm), synchronize cylinder 4 to 3 using only the 4th cylinder ar idle screw, then cylinder 2, then cylinder 1. If you need to change cylinder 3 air idle screw, you need to resynch the 3 other air idle screws too.
If idle is too high or too low, play with the idle ramp screw, or you can play a little bit with cylinder 3 air idle screw, in all cases you need to resynch the air idle screws.

After that you need to set the TPS, you have the information on lagardier site: http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html, it is very important, if TPS is not set correctly, the bike will run very poorly. It is a good practise to check motronic defaults and reset defaults if any before synch.

With some practise, you can have a right synch in half an hour, but much more the first time, and check after a few day that it stays synchonized (if a nut is not screwed tight enough for instance, it will change).


I might be extra brave this week and attmept the Throttle Body Sync.

I own the Morgan carbtune. SO If I understand what I need to do correctly, I can just connect my device to all four vacuum connections and tune all in one shot ??
I have seen the instructions and have done this on a carburated bike.
So sounds like
1. I let the bike warm up to oper. temp.
2. Remove all the black vacuum caps.
3. Connect a hose on the Morgan tuner to each vacuum connection.
4. Turn all brass screws in.
5. Keep bike at idle (around 1000 rpm)
6. Aadjust the brass scew until all vaccum readings are close to each other.
Am I close to the correct procedure to follow?
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you are on target.
Except I would turn in the brass screws(very gently so you don't give them a flat spot) then start with them all turned out 1-1/2 turns and adjust accordingly.
If you are not adjusting the butterfly's you can start with any cyl as your base line, just have them all equal and end with idle rpm near 950.

It looks like #6's write up also covered the butterfly sync, that you may not need to do.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:27 am    Post subject: TB Sync Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Yes you are on target.
Except I would turn in the brass screws(very gently so you don't give them a flat spot) then start with them all turned out 1-1/2 turns and adjust accordingly.
If you are not adjusting the butterfly's you can start with any cyl as your base line, just have them all equal and end with idle rpm near 950.

It looks like #6's write up also covered the butterfly sync, that you may not need to do.

Could the Throttle bodies be so far out of sync that they could cause this problem?
I wonder if replacing all the stuff was just compensating for a really bad TB adjustment. When I originally got the bike it stumbled a little at 5 K. It got progressively worse, but I started replacing items after a couple of weeks. The bike was actually running pretty good but started to stumble between 4 and 5k on the tach and has gotten progressively worse.
What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment ?
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