K11 Owners Group

[max]

OK - finally got around to taking pics, as part of installing an Audiovox CCS100.

***Some of this under the "cyclonic separator" thread too, but for the other areas others might be interested... ***

History:

- leaking clutch seal even after replacement
- bike was apparently rebored next oversize by PO
- high crankcase pressure all the time (even at idle) - significant "wuffing" out the oil filler
- bike's not a spring chicken - 1996 RS, but 188000kms now

First step:
- removed the cyclonic oil sep in the airbox (some cutting involved)
- found full of coarse polyurethane foam and oil sludge - certainly wouldn't work as a separator
- came to conclusion that never did work as a cyclonic separator, that's why BMW added the foam









Second step:
- thought what the hell
- added a vacuum line across all 4 cylinders bleed nipples, then connected this to the crankcase. System gives full vacuum even at idle; oil filler now gets sucked onto hole, not blown off.
- added over-pressure non-return valve into original lines, so if ever get high crankcase pressure it "blows off" into the old breather system "rail" on the back of the throttle bodies.

PICS: Note -
- line from the vacuum "rail" is the one between TB1 & 2 - the other one goes to the cruise controller
- all the holes/lines for the original system are blocked off in the airbox, since they're all AFTER the filter
- the added non-return valve (behind the TPS) feeds into the END of the original breather piping - move the cap from the end to the middle (the usual feed point). NRV is the one used to feed the vacuum brake booster on an E36 BMW car.







So now the crankcase gets vacuum that DECREASES as the throttles open, instead of INCREASES. YMMV, works for me.

Added steps - Fan ballast

- does like the cars do - sets the fan running at < 100% as required, BEFORE the heat builds up
- wired across the output of the fan relay, so main curcuit can still kick in & put fan on at 100% as needed
- soldered to the legs of the fan relay so no loom hacking
- resistors (4 x 5w, 20ohm in parallel) strapped to frame tube to get rid of heat





White stuff is heatsink compound (eg for computer CPU chips) & used hose clamps as though not hot, probably too warm over time for nylon cable ties. No more cooked legs, been out in 35degC summer weather & still no "fast fan" overheating.

CCS100 "plumbing"

- thanks Mike for the assist in getting a unit to poor ol' NZ
- went for throttle shaft connection between TB 1 & 2 as others too "busy"
- didn't like the idea of an off-line "pull" (as per Ducks' pics for his LT), so plumbed it thru the plastic "tray" above the airbox, with reinforcing (washers, extra cable-ties of tray to frame)
- with this setup, use "long lasso" and no beads; can get plenty of slack - or none - as adjuster range is dead-on. Also nothing for cable to bind up on (BUT YOU **MUST** cable-tie lasso to the TB shaft so it can't go askew and use up all your slack and then keep the throttles slightly open)







Have fun all... now to convert the European light on/off switch to a CCS on/set switch...

Max

[Jim]

Haven't seen max around lately - if you're still here, I'd like to thank you for the write up on this mod.

Just did the breather mod to my bike while it was in the shop for the drop. The exhaust outlet is no longer black and sooty, and oil consumption has decreased.

We tried starting the bike with the oil fill cap sitting on the fill hole - not screwed in. There actually is vacuum at idle now.

Since vacuum decreases at higher revs, I might have to add a canister for the cruise control.

I'll probably have a better idea of how things are doing in about a month.

I did not have the airbox cut open to remove the deteriorating foam breather - just blocked the inlet.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Flying Duck]

Jim: I've installed the CCS-100 cruise on a K1100LT, 3 K1100RSs, a K100RS4V, a K1 and 3 K75s. Not a single one of them has required the use of a vacuum reserve canister.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[merlin geikie]

My that is some plumbing job Max

Well done and I trust you are ok

[max]

Thanks for the comments Jim & Merlin - still around, still on the RS, sadly still having quakes so for various personal/work reasons the riding has dropped back a fair bit! (Did manage a new timing chain & clutch, tho!)

If you're interested, I did get the non-US lights switch modded for the CCS100 - the NZ laws have changed to compulsory lights-on (did that anway) so the switch was surplus anyhow. The whole unit dismantles with screws (do it an a plastic bag) and then you can carefully Dremel yourself a new detent for the switch, and add a small spring to force the leftmost position back to center - that gives me CCS off (rightmost), CCS on (middle normal position) and CCS set/acquire (leftmost momentary) ... even tho the CCS is on all the time for me, it doesn't activate until the first set anyway. I suppose for those who want a "resume" and the fine up/down speed this might not suit, but it suits me not to have the extra control pad (just another thing to fiddle with, I've already got the radar/temp/voltmeter for that).

Oh, other thing I'm working on is a computer (arduino for those who care) system for some of the niggles on the bike
- active fan control with digital temp readout/setup
- may do the same for the heated grips, eg active control/thermostat
- active recalibration of the fuel gauge
- make the rear brake flash on slowdown, programmable slow flash when stopped / very slow (eg in suburban crawl)

Dunno if I want to go to the extent of the Fuel-+ but it's amazing what you can achieve with them, and losing the tach dial for an LCD (or a couple) and a good technical challenge...

Cheers

Max
Christchurch NZ

[Jim]

[merlin geikie]

Max replies:

[max]

There's been >6000 officially, but the count to us humans depends on where you are and how deep the quake was - plus we're getting used to them a bit after 8 months, so in some ways you notice them less, in others more... The Feb 22nd one (not the biggest, only a 6.3 "aftershock" of the sep 4th 7.1) was just when a lot of people - incl me - were hoping things were dying down.

Apparently the substructure geological layers under the area may also be contributing, but as you say, these were "new" faults (so inactive they had shown no surface signs in about 16000 years) and the whole situation is getting to be a buearucratic nightmare for those heavily involved. Luckily not us too much - we get cracks and creaks & groans, the traffic & local suburb are all changing as businesses move out of the CBD and buggered Eastern suburbs. Current call is abt 12000 domestic properties condemned (of abt 120,000, dunno proportion needing repair) and probably 1/3 to 1/2 the CBD as well. City definitely won't be the same.

New cracks do appear, usually only after 4s or greater, but it depends on the area - bigger problems is continuing damage to weakened buildings / bridges / sewers / roads / hillsides. In the worst areas the peaks ground acceleration was 2.02g //sideways//. It's a miracle more buildings didn't give up.

Anyway, all I can say for others is enjoy every day (always applies, eh?) and check your insurance policies carefully... if in doubt, ask scenario-based questions. A lot of people here are now looking at financial strife due to insurance "interpretations" ... I'm sure you can guess the gist some of them.

Take care all.

[max]

[merlin geikie]

Max is stoic:

[zisco]

Hi everyone, I didn't understand one step....

[Scott_Anderson]

The bike that the OP is working with in those pictures is a '96K1100, they don't have a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator. The 1100's use an upgraded version that is spring operated.

The "vacuum rail" that he is referencing is the whole section of tubing connecting tb1 thru tb4.
The line leaving down under the fuel rail between tb1 and tb2 connects to the block vacuum connection that sets behind the radiator on the top of the block.
The line leaving between tb3 and tb4 is the line going to the Audiovox CC unit.
If you want the same config, you will need a 3rd 'tap' say between tb2 and tb3 to connect your fuel pressure regulator, or come off of one of the ends.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

[zisco]

[Scott_Anderson]

Yep it should.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

[zisco]

Thanks to both....
but I don't understand why to put an NRV on the crankcase...
_________________
BMW K100 RS 16v 90´

[Scott_Anderson]

Basically the same reason you have them on a car engine. You want to draw/remove any fumes out from the crankcase side of the combustion chambers. In a 'back-fire' situation, without the NRV, you would/could blow those gasses into the crankcase, and the potential exists that you can blow out a seal or the oil level sight glass.

And to answer your next question.....So then why didn't BMW include one with the initial engine design? I haven't a clue. Maybe they didn't think the engine was big enough to need one, your guess is as good as mine.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)