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Installing new exhaust

 
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kirkkw
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 67
Location: Near Austin Tx

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 5:45 pm    Post subject: Installing new exhaust Reply with quote

In anticipation of installing my new/used Staintune exhaust, what problems should I anticipate and prepare for?

Should I buy some new header bolts and nuts in advance expecting that some of them will be frozen together?

Or is it best practice to replace all the header bolts and nuts after removing the header?

Ken
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ken,

Last time I removed the exhaust of my departed '93 K1100RS, 4 of the nuts came off easily, 4 had the nuts on solid- they effectively became bolts since the stud came out with the nut.

IMHO and if possible I would replace all 8 studs and nuts. Plus 4 new copper gaskets.

John
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
IMHO and if possible I would replace all 8 studs and nuts. Plus 4 new copper gaskets.


+1

Been there, should have done that.
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kirkkw
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 67
Location: Near Austin Tx

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Ken,

Last time I removed the exhaust of my departed '93 K1100RS, 4 of the nuts came off easily, 4 had the nuts on solid- they effectively became bolts since the stud came out with the nut.

IMHO and if possible I would replace all 8 studs and nuts. Plus 4 new copper gaskets.

John


Advice taken - parts to be ordered.

Ken
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get some high temp anti seize for the exhaust nuts. Pretty sure I saw some specifically for hot (exhaust) nuts the other day.
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
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Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
SugarHillCTD wrote:
IMHO and if possible I would replace all 8 studs and nuts. Plus 4 new copper gaskets.


+1

Been there, should have done that.

If the studs stay in place, leave them, they are supposed to stay in place, and you may not be able to remove them if they are stuck. I know some people who broke them trying to remove them, then you are in trouble (drill, rethread, ...). Just replace the ones that go off with the nut.

Copper gaskets is mandatory (even though some people don't replace them and may not have issues).
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might have trouble getting the O2 sensor out. Try some penetrating oil and/or heat to break it free.
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Number 6
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
You might have trouble getting the O2 sensor out. Try some penetrating oil and/or heat to break it free.

In France, K11 don't have an O2 sensor (no catalytic exhaust). Are there any exhaust system with O2 sensor and no catalytic part?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always been under the impression that it's either got both or neither. But I'm not an exhaust expert.
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
I've always been under the impression that it's either got both or neither. But I'm not an exhaust expert.

That's my feeling too, however it would be nice to have O2 sensor for automatic adjustment and no catalytic exhaust.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd need a different wiring harness and Motronic. Exhaust too - one with a port for the O2 sensor like the Staintunes and Remus' have.
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
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Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
You'd need a different wiring harness and Motronic. Exhaust too - one with a port for the O2 sensor like the Staintunes and Remus' have.

Here remus don't have a port for O2 sensors. Is the catalytic part at the collector side of the silencer part? Maybe one could mix a collector with O2 port and silencer with no catalyst?
Probably right regarding the Motronic...
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got Staintunes on my bikes. The O2 sensor is in the exhaust can after the collector.
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gladstone
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Joined: 20 Sep 2008
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Location: Pewsey, Wiltshire, UK

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you break one stud off in the head and you're using an original exhaust with a fixed flange you can get away with it being held in place by one nut. I'm sure there are a load of reasons why you shouldn't but mines been like this for two years!

On my other LT I think I've broken two studs - luckily from different cylinders and on opposite sides.

On the one with one broken it's on cylinder 2 and I've rigged up a piece of angled steel to bolt to the two adjacent cylinders and provide some support.

Cheers
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dwerbil
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Joined: 18 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took off the Remus on my K1100RS and replaced it with a stock muffler. The only parts used were the two dollar a 4 pack copper ring gaskets. I never considered trying to remove and replace the header bolts.

This was done about a year ago. No problems at all since then.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I removed my stock exhaust and found 2 broken pipes at the collector, I had a 50/50 mix of nuts and studs that came off.
I seriously considered trying to remove the remaining studs and replacing them with new but I decided at the time to leave sleeping dogs lie and not end up with a broken one. I'd wait and tackle it another day.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately the studs have a habit of snapping in use. When I had a cracked pipe on my exhaust (muffler) there were 2 studs missing, snapped off level with the head. I drilled same & re-tapped.
Any studs that would come out EASILY were replaced, the others like Scott, were left. All nuts were renewed & copperslipped, in case it did any good in the future Laughing

Apparently the cause of cracked pipes is the hardening of the rubber mount, which allows road vibration to be transmitted to the exhaust which work hardens. DO change the rubbers about £2 (€4).
HTH
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
Any studs that would come out EASILY were replaced, the others like Scott, were left. All nuts were renewed & copperslipped, in case it did any good in the future Laughing

That should be the rule... Remember the cylinder head is not designed to have the studs removed.
Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
Apparently the cause of cracked pipes is the hardening of the rubber mount, which allows road vibration to be transmitted to the exhaust which work hardens. DO change the rubbers about £2 (€4).
HTH

The other thing is the structure of the stock exhaust too, a 2 parts exhaust like the K100 stock, remus and many others is much better, but it is also possible to reinforce the stock exhaust, I'll take a picture of mine to show you. If done (reinforced) properly, it will not crack again, while just soldering will not last anyway, even if done properly.
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