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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:53 pm Post subject: (Possible) Dicky Kill Switch. |
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Hi all, I’ve got another unusual hassle with the K11RS, at first glance it seems like a dicky kill switch but I feel it’s something else. Worst of all the problem is intermittent and as yet I’ve not had too may opportunities to dig into the wiring.
A couple of days ago I switched on the ignition with the bike on the center stand, and the side stand up, and kill switch off. As I turned the ignition on the fuel pump ran for a few sec’s and oil light etc all came on !! it behaved as it though kill switch was on. I put the kill switch on and started the bike, when I turned the cut out off the bike continued to run. It was as though the switch was stuck closed.
The bike behaved for a couple of days before doing the same trick. This time I tried to start the bike with the kill switch in the off position. The starter motor started to spin for a brief moment then stopped, as it stopped the idiot lights in the speedo went out. Switching the kill on and the bike started fine and ran fine and stopped when the kill switch was switched off.
The next time I caught the problem I measured the voltage on the starter motor just in case this was a funny caused by bad brushes, the voltage was zero.
If it was a dicky kill switch then why would the starter motor kick in for a moment when starting the bike. And if the brushes in the starter are wearing and causing the load shed relay to drop out why did I read zero volts on the motor when the problem was there ??
Hope someone is able to shed some light on this.
Regards
Malcolm(t)
Joburg, South Africa. _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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merlin geikie Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 26 Dec 2008 Posts: 343 Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:31 am Post subject: |
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Malcolmt writes;
| Quote: | | And if the brushes in the starter are wearing and causing the load shed relay to drop out why did I read zero volts on the motor when the problem was there ?? |
From my limited knowledge, a ground path obstruction at the starter, will not enable the LSRelay to fire up and there will be zero volts at the starter and the relay.
I reckon you are on the right track by measuring at crucial places.
The kill switch crud build up and its wiring at the steering stem are known fray/fatigue points.
Keep at it and tell us of progress.
All the best
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 11:46 am Post subject: |
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I had a little time yesterday to look over a few points.
I find the starter motor will spin if I stab the button when the engine is running in nuetral.
The starter relay gets its ground through the ignition module and would have expected it to be diabled while the engine is running.
Can someone check their K11..just run the engine over 2000rpm when seeing if it spins. I'm not sure if this is related to the problem.
Thanks Malcolm _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:26 am Post subject: |
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Hi All,
My (possible) dick kill switch has returned.
I'm begining to suspect a sticky relay in the electrical box under the tank.
The question is which relay does what !!!!
Can anyone point me to a diagram showing the box layout and a description of the various relays ?
It will help me work back by swapping relays and seeing if the fault changes.
Cheers
Malcolm(t)
Joburg, South Africa _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:35 am Post subject: |
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Thanks.
The problem returned a couple of days ago.
I fiddled about in the relay box and now everything os OK once more.I've checked all the relays out they dont seem to stick
Let me dig some more, it is a tricky one. _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
****************************** |
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Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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| malcolmt wrote: | The starter relay gets its ground through the ignition module and would have expected it to be diabled while the engine is running.
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Do you got the right wiring diagram? This is correct for a K100, not a K11.
Kill switch and starter is not related on a K11, it`s cutting the fuel pump relay.
Inge K. |
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Ernie-NH Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Oct 2009 Posts: 982 Location: Bristol, New Hampshire
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Good morning Malcomb...
Not sure which Motronic your bike has... BUT the schematic in color ( a big help ) is found on the K-Technik site @:
<<< http://k-technik.pytalhost.com/pdf/ABS2web.pdf >>>
... if you want me to translate any of the component text I'd be glad to do it, but the diagram is very self evident which component is which...
When i took my 'right side' switch assembly apart, I found lots of corrosion from the weather entering into the unit which is not sealed. The connections are fragile so handle with care. I used Deoxit to clean, applied and removed with a cotton swab. I thought to put a very light coat of RTV all along the joint between the two halves when re-assembling but thought again and did not do it. Use your own best judgement...eh? The cleaning seemed to have resolved the kill switch issues I had...
Good luck.........// Ernie in NH _________________ AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7 |
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malcolmt Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 369 Location: Parys, S.Africa
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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This post goes back a few months. I’ve eventually found the cause of the “dicky kill switch”.
I’ve been chipping away at the problem , i.e. if I stop the engine with the kill switch it would continue to run until the ignition was turned off. If I switch the ignition on with the kill switch in the off position I hear the fuel pump run and the idiot lights come on. But hitting the start button makes the starter kick in for a moment then the bike goes dead until the kill switch is on.
I’ve had the kill switch out and it is 100% OK, the ignition switch is also fine. I’ve checked all the relays and found nothing wrong. All the wiring was checked and nothing damaged was found.
On Sunday while having another crack at it I realised I was barking up the wrong tree. I’d not considered my lights are always on !!!! when I turned them off..BINGO...problem solved. Even switching to side lights caused the hassle. What I realised is power from the lighting is getting to other circuits and seemed to be keeping the load shed relay energised.
I pulled the plug on the clocks and the problem remained, I disconnected the temperature gauge and BINGO..gotchya.. disconnect the gauge and all works fine, connect the gauge and we have the hassle..then.... leave the gauge connected but disconnect the lamp..all works OK !!!!!
it seems power from the instrument light is getting fed out to the temperature gauge supply and showing up as a dicky kill switch. I’m intrigued to figure out how it could keep the engine running, but the fact is disconnect the wire to the temperature gauge lamp and the electrics are 100%. Oh yes..and all the time the temperature gauge appeared to show the temperature correctly.
Malcolm(t) _________________ ******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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It's bizzare the little electrical gremlins these bikes can generate. I have chased them all away from my bike for now.... _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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Try running a separate earth (ground) from the Temp Gauge case to battery -Ve, frame or engine. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
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