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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border
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 Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 4:43 am Post subject: Re: Its The Little Things |
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| Jimmyd wrote: | | Flying Duck wrote: | | Quote: | | Now I have what seems like the opposite problem. During the test ride after the new plugs seems like the bike responds better as long as your pushing hard on the throttle. As soon as you let off it seems to run a little rough. It still does not pull nice an smoothly from zero to what ever like it use to but it is better. I use to get a stuplme around 5K but it pulled smoothly up to 5K. |
This could be the symptom of an air leak. When you're pulling hard the vacuum goes up - which can temporarily "seal" air leaks. Then when you let off the vacuum decreases and the air leak occurs again. |
Ok I know for sure I had a problem 2 weeks ago.
Since getting the injectors back last week, installing them, and replacing plugs and wires, I was still having a problem.
I discovered that I needed to reseat the throttle bodies and did so Monday. Bike ran better but still obviously hand a problem stumbling and stuttering and running poorly especially when not heavy on the throttle.
I was about to give up.
Went outside today checked again to make sure the Throttle Bodies were not a source of an air leak.... and there it was..... The connector for Injector #1 was not fully connected. made the connection......................... I feel like I have reached heaven. Took a 2 hour ride with lots of spirited throttle work 
I think I'm in love again 
I'll be completing the TB sync this week and am now ready for the Route 1 ride to Maine. |
What stinks is I just bought a full set of injector bodies complete with gaskets and screws. I'm sure I don't need them now. Hope these fit a K1 cause that's my next purchase/project.
Also have a full set of the NGK Iridium plugs at a cost of $32.
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1994 K 1100 RS |
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 8:30 am Post subject: |
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Some K1100RS life data:
K1/K100 16V/K1200 share the same cam shafts - they are "hotter" then K1100.
Best regards,
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Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone  , but not to far  .
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: Re: Its The Little Things |
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| Jimmyd wrote: | What stinks is I just bought a full set of injector bodies complete with gaskets and screws. I'm sure I don't need them now. Hope these fit a K1 cause that's my next purchase/project.
Also have a full set of the NGK Iridium plugs at a cost of $32. |
Same parts on a K1.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border
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| Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:32 pm Post subject: TB Sync |
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OK I did the TB Sync. There were definitley off, but that drastically. Went for a couple of rides. I think the buzz has been reduced or eliminated, but I never thought about until today.
One question. Seems the idle speed has reduced to the point that the bike actually seems like it might stall when cold and idiling. Where is the idle adjustment. Idle adjustment did not seem to be a problem while I was doing the sync but later when I was riding.
Is it accurate to say that the level I sync the TB at is not relevant just that they are all about equal. I ask that because I turned all the screws in fully. Then turned all 1.5 turns out and started to sync from there. The screws all seemed to have been out at least two turns plus some. When I was finished balancing none of my brass adjust screws were out two turns.
Now the bike seems to run great (good power and seems to be reduced buzz), but the idle is sketchy. I want to see what effect this has on gas mileage. From all the quotes I hear seems my bike is a bit low on the mid to high 30 MPG, though I do like to see what she can do on the highway at times.
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1994 K 1100 RS |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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To increase your idle, turn out the brass screws equally till you get the idle between 950-1000 rpm.
Correct on the level issue, you just want them as even as possible.
As far a gas mileage goes, like any vehicle the more idle time, intown riding the lower it will be.
I only get in the low-mid 30's with strictly in town riding.
I get it up to the mid 40's with some highway and upper 40's to 50 when all highway.
Your fuel will also have some effect on your mileage as well.
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Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | One question. Seems the idle speed has reduced to the point that the bike actually seems like it might stall when cold and idiling. Where is the idle adjustment. Idle adjustment did not seem to be a problem while I was doing the sync but later when I was riding. |
That's what the throttle advance lever on the left handlebar is for. Your idle when warm ideally should be 1000rpms +/- 100.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border
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| Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 12:03 am Post subject: TB Adjustment |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Quote: | | One question. Seems the idle speed has reduced to the point that the bike actually seems like it might stall when cold and idiling. Where is the idle adjustment. Idle adjustment did not seem to be a problem while I was doing the sync but later when I was riding. |
That's what the throttle advance lever on the left handlebar is for. Your idle when warm ideally should be 1000rpms +/- 100. |
I never use to use the throttle advance.
Now I just about have to use it to get the bike started.
Before I did the TB sync the idle speed was just about 1000 rpms.
I think I will leave it like this for the next long ride to see if it effects the gas mileage. Then I'll re adjust the TB settings to obtain the correct idle speed and balance the TB.
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1994 K 1100 RS |
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hfxrzw
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Jan 2009
Posts: 78
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| Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 10:33 am Post subject: |
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The idle should be set/be good with a warmed up engine. This means that using the 'choke' on start-up is common and not a wrong setting issue. IIRC the idle should be 950 +/- 50.
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Cheers, Rene
Greetings from Florida.
BMW K100 '85 |
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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border
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| Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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| hfxrzw wrote: | | The idle should be set/be good with a warmed up engine. This means that using the 'choke' on start-up is common and not a wrong setting issue. IIRC the idle should be 950 +/- 50. |
Ok, then I feel better about the TB sync job that I completed. I bought the bike about a year ago. I do not recall ever using the choke (maybe in the winter) to get the bike started. The way the bike came to me setup I never had to use the choke to get it started.
After doing the TB sync, I have not been able to start the bike (cold) with out the choke.
Thanks
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1994 K 1100 RS |
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blue95lt
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 230
Location: Franklin In.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:43 am Post subject: It works! |
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well guys I did a tbody sync.on my 95 k1100lt and it has reduced the buzyness,the bike is a lot more smooth now.
I took Gwyn's idea about the carb tune pro on boneyard website.
I put in new plugs,air filter and fuel filter and then tbody sync.
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1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk) |
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