K11 Owners Group

adoria · Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:30 pm Post subject:

problem solved. i got the bike running. it ended up being a very corroded ignition amplifier connector. the ground wire connector pin was heavily corroded. i had to pull the rubber "boot" back and clean the back of the connector pins as well as the front side of the connector pins using a small file, compressed air, and electronics cleaner. silly fix.

here is an in depth analysis of what occurred in chronological order:

first, the symptoms = turn ignition on and the fuel pump would not prime and the spark plugs would not spark when turning the engine over.

0) compression checked the cylinders for good measure. check fine. all cylinders were around 123-125 psi with a cold engine. checked all fuses and tested each relay (the fuse and relay box located under the tank). everything was good.

1) first i found the hall transmitter was not working. the sensors had gone bad. $550 for a new one from bmw OR (what i did) replace the hall sensors mounted to the metal plate ($55 for two new sensors....http://www.newark.com/airpax/2av54/hall-effect-magnetic-sensor/dp/96F1986?Ntt=2AV54). sensor was now functioning properly, but i was still not getting spark nor priming of the fuel pump.

2) since the fuel pump still did not prime after (1), i pumped out the gas and found the connection inside the pump that houses the external pump connector had broken wires. so i re-soldered connections and tested them with hooking up 12VDC straight to the external pump connector. it worked. BUT it would still not prime when ignition was turned on. i took the computer out of the metal casing and sprayed it with compressed air (do not blow on it. your tiny microscopic amounts of spit could damage it). i thoroughly cleaned the pins and multi-pin connector three times. then it worked and the fuel pump was priming properly. i even peeled back the rubber "boot" to expose the back of the multi-pin connector and cleaned it. exposing this helped trouble shoot the computer while in the computer was running by using an oscilloscope i have...a cheap 12VDC led will also work if you don't care to see the signal's voltage, but just want a flashing light). spark plugs still would not spark though.
3) i tested the coils on my truck's ignition amplifier since the "firing" signals looks similar (check this using my o-scope). the plugs sparked doing this, so i knew it was somewhere between the coils and the computer. i checked grounds. they were good. the only thing between the coils and the computer is the ignition amplifier (motronic 2.1 version). i checked this and found a corroded ignition amplifier connector. the ground wire connector pin was heavily corroded. i had to pull the rubber "boot" back and clean the back of the connector pins as well as the front side of the connector pins using a small file, compressed air, and electronics cleaner. after doing this the bike started right up. repeatedly. time to enjoy getting the brakes working so i can take her out.

im really excited to get this bike on the road. i got this '95 K1100LT with 42k miles for $1300 USD. the owner thought it would take an additional ~$1200 to get it running, hence the good buy. im glad to have help from a few of you guys (inge k, especially) and use my knowledge of electronics to get it running for ~$60.

the computer diagnosis code 1133 will not clear though. this is the no signal from the lower hall transmitter sensor code. that is one of the sensors i replaced and is working. i don't know why this code will not clear. i've tried starting the engine a few times and it does not clear. does anyone have suggestions?

i still need to repair the brakes (they have been sitting without fluid for 2 years...prob just get a rebuild kit). i was told the ABS-I system does not work. i don't know if this is a common issue that you guys might know of a fix. the previous owner said he just never had ABS and was fine. thoughts?
_________________
-andre
______________________
1995 BMW K1100LT

2005 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
2002 Honda Shadow 750 A.C.E.
1983 Honda Sabre 750 V-4

Number 6 · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:14 am Post subject:

Great news!

Do you get the 1133 code with the engine running? If the engine is not running, you always get the hall sensor codes.
Otherwise you can erase the error codes: http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html "pull fuse 5 for some seconds" or after a few cycles (start run stop) it will go away.
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

adoria · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:33 am Post subject:

The engine was not running. I tried start run stop once and it did not clear. I should have done that sequence more times. I'll pull the fuse to clear the code if it still exists. Thank you for your help.
Is there any quick list somewhere of what each fuse (1-9) corresponds too?
_________________
-andre
______________________
1995 BMW K1100LT

2005 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
2002 Honda Shadow 750 A.C.E.
1983 Honda Sabre 750 V-4

Inge K. · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:52 am Post subject:

Congrats with a running bike!

Number 6 · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:35 am Post subject:

adoria · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:21 pm Post subject:

great help. thanks for the info, guys.

i did the diagnosis code pulling sequence (bike not running, ignition on, ground pin 1 of diagnosis connector for 5 sec, watch code flash, turn off bike) three times and got the same 1133 code, so i think that was it.

time to fix the brakes, get new fluids in her, sync the TBs and let her eat up the road.
_________________
-andre
______________________
1995 BMW K1100LT

2005 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
2002 Honda Shadow 750 A.C.E.
1983 Honda Sabre 750 V-4