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Rostra Cruise Control VSS Connection

 
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:43 pm    Post subject: Rostra Cruise Control VSS Connection Reply with quote

Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:41 pm Post subject: Rostra Cruise Control VSS Connection
I am replacing a failed Audiovox vacuum-powered cruise control with a Rostra electric cruise control (model 250-1223).

What isn't completely clear to me is how to get the VSS input from my bike. I've seen elsewhere here in the forum that one can simply connect to the speedometer sensor under the right side cover and have it just work.

I haven't road-tested my installation yet, but when I tie into either of the wires coming from the speedo sensor (yellow or brown), I don't see the expected flashing LED from the Rostra when in diagnostic mode. All other diagnostic tests pass, so I think I've got the rest of it connected correctly.

So, my questions:
Can you just connect the speedo sensor to the grey (VSS) wire on the Rostra?
Also, should the LED flash when the rear wheel is spun by hand? (ignition on, Rostra in diagnostic mode)
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1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's correct, either wire from the sensor is ok, and dip switch 10 has to be set to Sine Wave input to work ie off. I could never see the diagnostic led but the Cruise Control worked anyway.

BTW there's an online manual here:-

http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-1223Form4565G.pdf
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, great news Drikko, thank you. (yours was the post that came closest to answering my two questions

I'll put the bike back together and test-ride it.

I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HenryJonesJr wrote:
Ah, great news Drikko, thank you. (yours was the post that came closest to answering my two questions

I'll put the bike back together and test-ride it.

I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank


Good idea on the clutch although as per my PM I never did, so change switch 11 from what I told you. So your switch settings will be:-

1 off
2 off
3 on
4 off
5 off
6 off
7 off
8 off
9 off
10 off
11 off
12 off

You may want to play around with switches 1 and 2, if it takes forever to get up to the new speed then increase the gain, if it goes over speed and hunts back down to the new speed the reduce it till it just goes smoothly to the new speed. You may have to adjust the length of the actuating arm as well.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your switch settings.

The only thing is.... "actuating arm" - don't think I have one of those. Are you talking about the mechanical connection to the throttle body set?

Cheers,

Hank
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1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, although there's any number of ways to attach it. Mines not on the Beemer any more, so I can't show you how I did it sorry.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HenryJonesJr wrote:
I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank

Yes, I have one in my garage that I haven't installed yet and couldn't figure out how to use the clutch switch, a wiring diagram would be very appreciated Wink
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94 K1100LT
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HenryJonesJr wrote:
Ah, great news Drikko, thank you. (yours was the post that came closest to answering my two questions

I'll put the bike back together and test-ride it.

I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank


YES! Please do a write-up. You could post it here and I would move it for you or you could post it directly to Tech Resources.

Thanks.
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Number 6 wrote:
HenryJonesJr wrote:
I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank

Yes, I have one in my garage that I haven't installed yet and couldn't figure out how to use the clutch switch, a wiring diagram would be very appreciated Wink


Number 6,
The clutch lever switch is a plunger-style switch that is compressed when the clutch lever is pulled in at least part way. The switch connects to the wiring harness under the tank, left side, just above the #2 and #3 cylinders. The connector from the wiring harness has two wires: green with black stripe (Grn/Blk) and black with green stripe (Blk/Grn). The Grn/Blk wire is normally +12v when the key is ON.

So, the clutch lever switch sends the 12v from the Grn/Blk into the Blk/Grn (enabling the engine starter button, by the way) whenever the clutch lever is pulled in at least part way. I tied the light green wire from the cruise control into the Blk/Grn wire so that it is powered (+12v) whenever the clutch lever is at least partly pulled in.

Note that I am using a relay for the neutral safety "NSS" feature of the cruise control. That is, the Blk/Grn wire from the wiring harness powers the relay to trigger the NSS behavior. (more detail available if you need it)

In my test ride (actually "drive", for a sidecar Smile), I found that pulling the clutch lever in while the cruise is engaged has the engine revving about 200 - 400 RPMs higher before the cruise disengages. It's pretty quick and it works well.

Cheers,

Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
HenryJonesJr wrote:
Ah, great news Drikko, thank you. (yours was the post that came closest to answering my two questions

I'll put the bike back together and test-ride it.

I used relays for the clutch lever switch, brake light and power supply from the battery.

Maybe I should post a detailed write-up of the installation so others could benefit, eh?

Cheers,

Hank


YES! Please do a write-up. You could post it here and I would move it for you or you could post it directly to Tech Resources.

Thanks.



Sure, I'll do a write-up, though it'll take a bit of effort to get the photos and such - gotta take the bike back apart Sad so it may not be done right away. Stay tuned, though... Having looked around for detailed info about installing an electrically-powered cruise control in a K1100, I understand as well as anybody the challenges of figuring out the details of the install.

Cheers,

Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can understand why you did the clutch relay sort of but I didn't add relays to the brake or power, they just wired straight in no problems. No need for relays that I could see?

The clutch would need one as it's wired the wrong way around so the relay swaps it to suit the CC I suspect. Mind you I never connected the clutch, was just careful not to pull it in when the CC was on!
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
I can understand why you did the clutch relay sort of but I didn't add relays to the brake or power, they just wired straight in no problems. No need for relays that I could see?

The clutch would need one as it's wired the wrong way around so the relay swaps it to suit the CC I suspect. Mind you I never connected the clutch, was just careful not to pull it in when the CC was on!


Hey drikko,

All the relays are 5-connection (SPDT - Single Pole Dual Throw). That is, each can either complete or break a connection to the cruise.

The clutch relay allowed me to ignore the tach/RPM lead (dark blue on the cruise) and give me a reliable second way to disengage the cruise. The clutch lever switch powers the relay to ground the light green wire of the cruise. From the Rostra Install Guide: "Connect this wire to a ground active wire when neutral safety switch is engaged."

I used a relay for the (rear) brake as I read enough about others having trouble based on things like different light bulbs, poor ground, etc.. It was easy enough to do and I just put the relay in behind the tail light lens with the associated wiring.

I used power straight from the battery and a relay to switch it as I thought I could avoid any potential weirdness with adding a 10Amp-fused device to an existing circuit. Although the cruise is fused at 10A, I expect it only actually uses 1/2 to 2/3rds of that. Still, separating that load from everything else was worth the ~10 minutes it took to hook in a relay.

The relays are from Hella and cost about US $5.27 each from Amazon US (HELLA 007794301 Weatherproof 20/40 Amp SPDT Mini Relay with Bracket
- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TEO9GU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 ).

Cheers,

Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally agree, it can only be better, I just didn't worry about it and it worked fine Smile

BTW after about a year of use the 2 bolts that hold the actuating motor in place inside the CC unit itself vibrated out stopping it from working as the motor was rolling about inside the case. I had to pull the unit apart and loctite these bolts back in place, all good now, might be worth doing up front.

In case you are wondering how when you touch the brakes or clutch it disconnects the throttle so quickly, the actuating motor is connected to the actuating cable by an electro-magnet which is only activated when the CC is working. If you touch the brakes or clutch it turns the electro-magnet off to release the throttle instantly, in the meantime while you are avoiding the moron in front of you, the actuating motor winds back out to pick up the cable next time you activate it. Pretty smart and I assume all CCs work like this.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so as far as I understand you need one relay for the bakes and one for the clutch.
I was wondering how to do it with only one relay but I guess using directly the brake wiring and adding a relay operated by the clutch would mess with the brake light...
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94 K1100LT


Last edited by Number 6 on Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Number 6 wrote:
OK, so as far as I understand you need one relay for the bakes and one for the clutch.
I was wondering how to do it with only one relay but I guess using directly the brake wiring and adding a relay operated by the clutch would mess with the brake light...


Number 6,

I think it can be done with only one relay...

But, you'd need diodes to protect the clutch switch circuit and the brake circuit from each other. The extra complication doesn't seem worth the effort. For about an extra $5.25, you can have separate, dedicated relays for each purpose (also simplifying troubleshooting at some vague point in the future).

I hope the clutch switch wiring details you asked for are useful to you.

Cheers,

Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HenryJonesJr wrote:
Number 6 wrote:
OK, so as far as I understand you need one relay for the bakes and one for the clutch.
I was wondering how to do it with only one relay but I guess using directly the brake wiring and adding a relay operated by the clutch would mess with the brake light...


Number 6,

I think it can be done with only one relay...

But, you'd need diodes to protect the clutch switch circuit and the brake circuit from each other. The extra complication doesn't seem worth the effort. For about an extra $5.25, you can have separate, dedicated relays for each purpose (also simplifying troubleshooting at some vague point in the future).

I hope the clutch switch wiring details you asked for are useful to you.

Cheers,

Hank

Yes, sure, indeed the 2 relays helped me even more!
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94 K1100LT
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch relay is needed to change which way around it works. Yes you could wire this relay into the brake light input as well so it pretends to be a 3rd brake switch which would work just as well but still only one relay strictly needed.

edit: Thinking about this is troubling me, as this will switch the brake light on when you pull the clutch in, reading up on the clutch option switch for cars you would put this relay for the clutch in series with the active brake light switch. See the manual which is rather badly worded/drawn here http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-4206_Form2391A.pdf

So I'm not too sure what you would do for the clutch switch now, except don't have one.....

Edit edit: OK figured it out. The red brake positive wire or C in figure 34 of the CC diagram goes to the side of the brake light switch that is always positive. the Violet wire or D in fig 34 goes through the clutch switch relay which is normally closed if the clutch isn't actuated ie hand off the clutch then to the switched side of the brake light switch. This way the clutch will disengage the the CC by disconnecting the violet (D) wire while the clutch is pulled in and activating the relay. but it won't switch the brake light on.

Note this uses the filament of the brake light bulb to pull it to ground while the CC is active. So for the violet wire when it is grounded through the bulb the CC can operate, either disconnecting it with the clutch relay or pulling it to 12V with the brake light switch will shut the CC off letting the throttle off.

Makes sense to me now Smile

I'll draw it up tonight.
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB

DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.

'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde
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HenryJonesJr



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 16
Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
The clutch relay is needed to change which way around it works. Yes you could wire this relay into the brake light input as well so it pretends to be a 3rd brake switch which would work just as well but still only one relay strictly needed.

edit: Thinking about this is troubling me, as this will switch the brake light on when you pull the clutch in, reading up on the clutch option switch for cars you would put this relay for the clutch in series with the active brake light switch. See the manual which is rather badly worded/drawn here http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-4206_Form2391A.pdf

So I'm not too sure what you would do for the clutch switch now, except don't have one.....

Edit edit: OK figured it out. The red brake positive wire or C in figure 34 of the CC diagram goes to the side of the brake light switch that is always positive. the Violet wire or D in fig 34 goes through the clutch switch relay which is normally closed if the clutch isn't actuated ie hand off the clutch then to the switched side of the brake light switch. This way the clutch will disengage the the CC by disconnecting the violet (D) wire while the clutch is pulled in and activating the relay. but it won't switch the brake light on.

Note this uses the filament of the brake light bulb to pull it to ground while the CC is active. So for the violet wire when it is grounded through the bulb the CC can operate, either disconnecting it with the clutch relay or pulling it to 12V with the brake light switch will shut the CC off letting the throttle off.

Makes sense to me now Smile

I'll draw it up tonight.


Hey drikko,

So, to disengage the CC, the violet wire needs to be either floating (i.e. not connected) or at 12v (the same as the red wire).
If I'm understanding your proposed connections right, you'd have the clutch switch relay's load in series with the switched side of the brake light circuit. You'd use the relay in its normally-closed mode (i.e. there is a circuit across the 30 and 87 pins unless the clutch lever is pulled in). It seems to me that when the clutch lever is pulled in, the circuit across pins 30 and 87 of the clutch switch relay would "float" but the violet wire would still be grounded by the brake lamp and the cruise would remain engaged.

Also, when the clutch lever is not pulled in and the brake light is on, the 12v from the switched side of the brake circuit would be present on the switched side (normally not 12v) of the clutch lever switch connector. According to the bike's schematic, the starter button is energized by *either* the switched side of the clutch lever switch connector or the neutral light in the instrument cluster.

That means that when the brake light was on, the rider could press the starter button and have the starter engage - regardless of whether the bike was in neutral or the clutch pulled in. The 12v on the switched side "fools" the bike into thinking that the clutch is pulled in.

The other reason I used the two relays is that a year or two from now I'm going to have forgotten all of this and so will have an easier time figuring it all out again if the two circuits are separate. My brain is melting as I get older (and older).

Cheers,
Hank
_________________
1993 K1100LT / 1996 EML GT2000 Sidecar
2001 R1150GS

Riddle me this:
Two motorcycles are being ridden down a two-lane road. They are followed by a long line of cars.

What brand are the motorcycles?
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