K11 Owners Group

[kelso]

Hi all,
The bike is K1100Lt 1993 Model. ABS 1
Question=The ABS light flashes at 1HZ and the bulb monitor lamp stays on.
The bulb test unit is working OK.(disconnected ABS and tested this)
The Blue test socket on centre pin to frame is a constant light .(no fault)
I disconnected the rear sensor and I had a code fault 4.
Reset ABS and indicator lights still show same as above.
What would you suggest is wrong.
What is the correct gap for the sensors as the fork sticker shows .35 - .55 and manual shows front .50 - .55 and the rear .60 - .65
I also found for testing faults that my small test lamp with 2 probes and misc LED lights for testing volts from 6 to 440 AC or DC worked 1st class.
On a test run the ABS fault lights were still the same Lamp test light on and 2nd lamp flashes at 1 hz (bulb test relay works OK )
Look forward to your replies.
Richard

[Jim]

Hi Richard,

welcome to K110G!

Probably a weak battery - that's usually the culprit.

If you'll put the year and model of your bike in your sig, you won't have to include it in your post.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[kelso]

Hi Jim ,
Thanks for your reply.
the battery is OK.
As an add on to my 1st post.
After I had induced the rear sensor fault and reset it, I took the bike for a 50 mile run and the ABS light went out at the start. Great!! stopped the engine and restarted after 20mls still ok at the end of the run the lamp started to flicker then the went into steady pulse.
This looks like a bad connection somewhere.
The BMU (ABS ) light Just stayed on the whole time.
So could the ABS unit have been frozen since the bike was sitting for 11 years and with me creating the fault in the rear sensor this has put it back in a working mode,(Besides a now bad connection somewhere)
Once I have the petrol in the tank down, I will move the tank and create a fault in the front sensor and reset it , take the bike for a run and see if the BMU lamp for the other ABS will start to work OK.
All break fluids have been changed.
What sensor gap should I go with, the manual or the sticker on the front forks.
Look forward to Replies .
Richard
PS Just joined so will post later photos of the bike re before and after work done.

[Scott_Anderson]

I'd go with the sensor gap marked on the bike to start with.

Welcome to the forum....
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[kelso]

Thanks Scott,
I will go with the Gap shown on the fork sticker.
Why does the manual show a different gap for this year and model ???????
Richard

[Jim]

Richard,

I seriously doubt anyone here can answer that question...

[Inge K.]

To make the confusion more complete..........

Service bulletin 34 002 00 from 02/02-2000, ABS sensor gap all models.

The correct spacing of the ABS sensor to the ABS gear wheel is 0.45 - 0.55 mm
for both the front and rear brakes,measured at the point of greatest distance.
This measurement is the latest information and is retroactive to all years and models.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
BTW! On the stickers on my bike it's the same values as in the manual......
it's a -95 LT with ABS II, tho.

[kelso]

Thanks All for your input to my questions and problems .
As time goes I am sure I will resolve this and sort out the GREMLINS in my ABS system.
When I am finished I will come back and post the details.
Richard
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[kelso]

Back again,
Regarding my ABS fault lights, the update is as follows =
Abs light now goes out when the bike is moving BUT the BMU light stays on.
(not flashing) Checked for fault codes .All OK light just stays steady.
I removed the relay for the lamp testing procedure so the triangle light (BMU) only lights if the signal is coming from the ABS main unit.
Took the bike for a run . Still the same . Main ABS light goes out, BMU light stays on.
Checked the circuit for the BMU light and this is a white/ blue wire and this shows a voltage of 3.4 and this lights up the 2nd abs triangle
light (BMU)
So whats at fault !!
All sensors read OK and set at correct gap.
Any feed back on this.)
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[Don Sproule]

Check your bulb. For some strange reason, ones made with brass bases (not sure the actual metal) tend to not work as well as those with nickel (again not sure of the actual metal). The dealers carry the good ones.

Don

[kelso]

Thanks for your reply Don.
I disconnected the BMU unit so if the indicator light came on (BMU triangle)
it was being fed from the ABS control box.
As mentioned the wire that gives this indication is White /blue that goes from the brain to the BMU relay and joins onto the white/blue wire that goes directly to the BMU indicator light.
This lamp just stays on.
The main ABS lamp (marked with the ABS symbol) is working perfectly.
No fault codes are displayed on the blue plug.
All sensors read OK (as they should )
The battery is 22amp rated and is new (sealed type)
The voltage on this wire at the brain is 3.4 volts.
Disconnecting this wire puts the light out.
Hope some one has the answer without renewing the brain/or brain repair.
Richard
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[kelso]

As a addition to my previous questions on ABS faults.
Is there anybody in the UK who can inspect and REPAIR the electronics in the ABS brain.
I have only came across the chap in JAPAN.
This seems a long way to send this to.
Is there nobody in this country who has the brains, or is the chap in Japan one in a million.
Richard
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[slash2nut]

I highly recommend the fellow in Japan. His cost and shipping back was more than reasonable. He bench tests the unit, repairs the faults, runs it for 48 hours and then installs it on his bike.

Can't beat the service cost and turnaround time. Less than two weeks gets it back to you.
_________________
Dave in MI
'93 K11lt
'86 K75c

[Scott_Anderson]

Per Anton at : http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html


ABS1

ABS1 was only used on K75, K100, and 1993 K1100LT. It's recognizable by the modulator units mounted to the footpeg plates. A fault is indicated by the ABS light and the bulb monitor flashing in unison. The bulb monitor will be on continuously until the system has verified operation of both brake switches and both bulb filaments (taillight and brake light) and then it extinguishes and becomes the second ABS light. The primary ABS light (and the monitor light, once its test is complete) will flash in unison until the bike moves off. If they continue to flash in unison after that, there is a fault. You will probably get a fault #7 upon startup after you have left the battery disconnected for a period of time.

Not trying to imply anything, just making sure its known what/how the lamps are supposed to function as they are different than on the later ABS2 bikes.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Flying Duck]

[kelso]

Thanks to all for their input,
My problem is the 2nd ABS light (also the BMU)
This stays on after proving the brake light and front lights are OK.
After proving the above lights the 2nd ABS light becomes dimmer as this is now working for the ABS system only.
The main ABS light starts as a slow flash on start up and goes out when the bike starts to move.
The 2nd ABS light is just on all the time, after proving the lights are OK.
It looks like it might be a JAPAN job
Richard
Have a chance to buy a 2nd hand unit for app £90.00 this is from a 1998 model and the Nos are the same as mine.
No faults show up on the test procedure.
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[Flying Duck]

[kelso]

Hi Flying Duck,
Where do you get your prices.
I looked up what you said Their cost (NOT NEW) £295.00
USA Costs (NEW) 1822 dollars
A new sensor alone cost £143.00
SO ! surely if I pay £90.00 for a good 2nd hand brain its a bargain.
OR am I missing something.
HELP
Richard
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD

[Flying Duck]

I tyhought you were talking about BMUs.

A 98 ABS control unit is ABS II and won't work in a 93 bike.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[kelso]

Thanks for your prompt reply.
The code Nos etc on the unit offered match what is on my bike at present.
I take note of what you say.
Will double check both unit details to confirm if its suitable.
Glad to have your thoughts on the matter
Richard
_________________
1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD