K11 Owners Group

jimbenge · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:31 pm Post subject: Driveshaft woes

On a recent trip coming back from Canada My front driveshaft u-joint broke. See Pics in Link below. Very expensive u-haul from Washington-Oregon Border to San Diego. Got it apart OK, but figured I would check out the clutch-clutch lube and main seal. but can't figure out how to get the bracket under the battery tray out of the way for the tranny removal (it's the h shaped tubing that the abs pumps and foot peg plates connect to + battery & abs module). It's a 1993 K1100RS (ABS-1) anyone know how? also do I have to remove the center - side stand assembly. I have it up in the air so maybe i don't have to remove it ??

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20455966@N06/sets/72157636069574195/
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Jim Benge, San Diego, CA.

1995 K1100LT
1993 K1100RS & Getaway trailer
K100RT with 1985 EML sidecar & Kwik-Kamp Trailer
2006 Harley 1200R Sportster

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:55 pm Post subject:

On my K100 (that has an ABS II bracket and K1100 peg plates) I found that pulling the alternator made it possible.

On my 93 LT I just remove the bracket with the trans. Lift it off of the rubber thing bolts though.

Removing the center stand makes it less awkward to get the trans off/on.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

jimbenge · Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:34 pm Post subject:

Thanks Drake, got the Tranny out today and will check the clutch thickness tomorrow. I thought I may have had a rear main seal or )-Ring going but it looks dry. Hopefully I can get the Tranny back in in the same order. It actually came out pretty easy, pulling the starter was the most trouble. Havev not decided whether or not to source a used driveshaft or just go for the new one. I can probably get 15-20% off the thing but they are pretty pricey at about $800. From what I have been reading the newer replacement ones seem to be better ?? any thoughts. My rear one seems OK, but the bike has a little over 70K on it and I ride 2-up and pull a 375 lb trailer with it all the time.
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Jim Benge, San Diego, CA.

1995 K1100LT
1993 K1100RS & Getaway trailer
K100RT with 1985 EML sidecar & Kwik-Kamp Trailer
2006 Harley 1200R Sportster

old guy old bike · Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:19 pm Post subject:

Jim,
Dry or not, you really need to change the clutch nut o-ring. You will find it to be hard and brittle when you get to it. It may net even come out in one piece. Myself, I would also change the seal while I was that far in.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

Jim · Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:35 pm Post subject:

Yeah - what Jeff said...

Past performance is no indication of what the future holds - replace 'em.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Flying Duck · Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 10:00 pm Post subject:

On a bike that's been ridden regularly the clutch O-ring can last a pretty long time. That said, for the cost and effort involved, I'd install a new one if I were pulling things off and had the clutch apart.

Even if it were leaking a bit, I wouldn't bother with the rear seal. Given where the oil goes it will never foul your clutch. (This is probably the ONE thing I'm too lazy to care about. Very Happy

)

My K1 has a newer drive shaft installed by the dealer I bought it from just prior to my purchase a couple of years ago. In THEORY, the U-joints should be better. (Or at least a new one should have a longer expected life.)

The front half of it is shorter (and the rear correspondingly longer) so that it can't be propped up on the bridge in the swing arm for installing the final drive. I overcame that by stuffing a rag under it to hold it up until the splines from the rear half got started in the front half and then pulled the rag out.

Use promo code PROMO15 at Countryside BMW for a 15% discount off of MSRP. I also got free shipping on my last order from them - I think because the order amount was >$150. (And you won't have to give Governor Moonbeam his cut either.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Moondog · Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 2:43 pm Post subject:

Moondog · Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 5:37 pm Post subject:

Now that the subject of rear main seals is upon us, that is exactly where I am at now. I removed everything in front of it and I don't see anywhere in my Clymers how to replace it. I am replacing the seal but before I go any further, I assume the seal is going to be destroyed coming out. Can I pull it out by hand or pliers or such? I know about the tool to go back in but that is a decision for another day.

rbm · Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 9:29 pm Post subject:

jimbenge · Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:00 am Post subject:

UPDATE, after looking for several weeks I was unable to find a low mileage driveshaft, most were higher mileage than what mine was before it broke. I almost bought a 1996 K1100RS that had 21K (so the odometer said) on it for $1,800 but I have too many bikes and parts already, so I took the Flying Ducks advice and bought a new driveshaft thru Countryside BMW, I never even talked to them I just used the PROMO15 code on their website along with the part number and it went thru. I tried the 18% one also but it did not go. Anyway I think it came from the Fatherland because it took 2-3 weeks to get here. But it was geninuine BMW. I replaced the Clutch nut O-ring (broke when it came out, was very brittle) Also replaced rear seal while in there and it to was a little brittle but was not leaking. The clutch disk had only .007 wear in 70K miles. Everything went back together nicely and while I was waiting for the parts I cleaned up everything like a new bike. All is well now. But if I had it to do over again I might leave it at the scene or part it out because the repair costs (about $700 total), U-Haul $800, and fuel $500 are as much as these bikes are worth. This is the 1st problem I have had with this bike (except people knocking it over) and it pulls the trailer and little woman like a freight train and still gets mid forties on regular gas. I guess I will be keeping it awhile longer. It is as good as any new bike out there in my opinion.
_________________
Jim Benge, San Diego, CA.

1995 K1100LT
1993 K1100RS & Getaway trailer
K100RT with 1985 EML sidecar & Kwik-Kamp Trailer
2006 Harley 1200R Sportster