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kelso Brick Rider
Joined: 08 Sep 2013 Posts: 40 Location: Ayr , Scotland
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 3:27 pm Post subject: Front engine bars |
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The top bars are fitted to the engine mounting bolts.
The bottom bars are fitted to the original bolt holes at the front of the sump.
The same point as the makers bars are fitted too. I never used the back bolt holes at the rear of the sump.
Look at the sketch.
At the engine bolts I made app. 100mm long 2 S/Steel pipes, welded S/S washers on to the pipe, the existing engine bolts fitted thro the washers and re bolted the engine to the frame. These pipes fitted inside (tight) the s/s pipes that were for the bars.
Slipped the bars (Length as required)on to the short pipes . Approx50mm from the end drilled a hole thro both pipes. Welded a nut inside the short stubs, run a tap thro the hole and nut on the short stub. this gave me a fixing point for the main bars. Once the short stubs were fitted to the engine fixing bolts (Allen key) they do not have to come back off.
At the bottom I made a short pipe 80mm longer than the sump both sides.
Welded on 2 s/s flat bars. these bars bolted on to the existing sump fixing points.
The bottom bars fitted over the base pipes, welded 2 nuts (same as top bars) and bolted these to the short pipes.
Cut this pipe to the length required, then welded a short length of solid S/S rod to the top and bottom pipes this locked the 2 pipes together for added strength.
At the end of the pipes I fitted handle bar ends to finish of the appearance.
The secret is to have the pipes at the correct lengths so as the bottom bars protect the bottom of the fairing and to top bars protect the mirror etc.
If the bike is laid down it sits on the 2 bar ends. (It works)
Richard
( Any other details Mail me) _________________ 1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD |
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Shoganai Biscuit Fluffer

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 2234 Location: Culpeper,VA
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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Wait a minute, Gwen. You had another low side today??
I hope you're working on the damage from the last one - not a new one...
Thank you Richard.
I'm working to patch up all the damage from my lowside today and hopefully will start bending metal for this project by Monday.
You RAWK!
:hugs _________________ 1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 1:34 am Post subject: |
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This guy seems to have a good way you could use to attach your crash bars.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JukdpOusCCw&feature=player_embedded _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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kelso Brick Rider
Joined: 08 Sep 2013 Posts: 40 Location: Ayr , Scotland
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:36 am Post subject: engine bars |
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Hi Shoganai,
So remember to take your time and think !
If you build it as per the sketch and you need to remove Fairing for any service work you just ;
(1) Remove the panel with the fuel gauge.
Remove the bolt that attaches the top bar to the short stub fixed to
the engine mount.
(2)On the bottom bar remove the bolt that attaches it to the short bar that is bolted to the original fixing hole at the sump.
(3)Grip the brace s/s rod and slip the 2 tubes away from the bike.
(4) Hey Presto ! full access to the fairing and engine as before, without any
major work.
(5) Just do the same on the other side.
Richard _________________ 1993 K1100lt Tourer
Purchased 3rd Nov.2012
Miles app. 60,000
Restored bike after sitting for 12 years.
+ Kawasaki 1978 KZ1000LTD |
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