K11 Owners Group

[Flying Duck]

At this link: http://classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/solder101/solder101.htm
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[BobZ(IL)]

+1
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'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

[SugarHillCTD]

I agree- good info.

Something to add. I have a couple 110V soldering irons.

A few years ago I picked up a Radio Shack cordless iron. Uses a few AA batteries. Nearly instant on- 5-8 seconds and the solder starts to melt.

Don't use it for multiple solder joints but for one or two every hour or so it is convenient.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[N41EF]

Actually for electrical purposes solder does still have lead in it. The most common such as radio shack sells is 60/40 or 60% Tin, 40% lead. Ideally, look for SN63 which is 63% Tin 37% lead because it is eutechtic, or there is no plastic region as the solder cools. Sn63 goes from molten to solid very rapidly so there is little chance of a cold or disturbed solder joint. Sn63 costs a little more, but is much easier to get a quality joint.

For high temperture connections there is an Sb5 which is 95% Tin and 5% antimony. Sb5 is very very hard to work with. Some manufactures have a "silver" solder that is 95% Tin and 5% silver. Again requires higher heat to get it to melt.

Most common solder has a rosen core and doesn't require external flux. Wire or terminals that are corroded will get a boost from flux.The flux should burn off or be consumed as you solder so it shouldn't leave any residue. If you are soldering old wires that have been spliced or taped before, flux will help clean the connection as you solder it. Good call on the flux, most people never flux when they should.

I also reccommend a grounded iron if you are soldering anything with an IC or that could be damaged by static electricity.

[Flying Duck]

The stuff I buy at Radio Shack says "Lead-Free" right on the spool. I don't buy it for that reason though. I buy it because the skinnny stuff melts more quickly and easily.



At least in my, albeit limited, experience, pre-fluxed solder isn't worth a tinker's damn compared to fluxing the wire ahead of time.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Shoganai]

I'll add that this technique is the best I've ever used. (now the only way I'll ever use for greater than 22ga.)

After fracturing my thumb I had a very difficult time twisting wire. I started doing it like this and as for the smoothing down part, I just gave them a slight twist.



It lays down better, solders faster and less issues with slipping the shrink wrap over it.

Only thing you'll need to be mindful of is that until it's soldered, it doesn't hold together well.


Also, I learned to cover the heat shrink with a piece of damp paper towel to prevent it from pre-shrinking from transferred heat. Then used it to cool the soldered joint before advancing the heat shrink.

What a difference it made!
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki

[Luke's Buddy]

Folks-
Some really good solder is available from our friends at McMaster-Carr.
The 63-37 stuff is particularly well suited to vehicle wiring. Try some in .025 for really smooth soldered connections. The small diameter solder is easier to use, as it doesn't cool the joint so quickly when it is applied. Rosin core. Flux helps a great deal on vehicle wiring, as vehicle wiring is often old and it is usually dirty...
Enjoy!
Luke's Buddy
1996 K1100RS
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Luke's Buddy
1996 K1100RS

[Flying Duck]

Did you fuggers not read the title of this thread? It's "Soldering 101."

Please stop posting graduate level shit in my thread. LOL....
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Shoganai]

[exavid]

One minor point not mentioned, be sure the flux used for electrical soldering is rosin and not acid based. Acid based flux is for metal soldering as on brass and copper sheet or steel body filling. It will corrode copper wire.
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Paul W.
2013 C650GT
1995 K1100LT

Molon Labe

[elecky]

The purpose of flux isn't to clean the joint to be soldered, it should already be clean. The use of flux is to stop the joint oxidising from the heat of the soldering iron which can inhibit proper bonding of the copper strands and create a high resistance in the joint.