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JammanLV

Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Posts: 10 Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:54 pm Post subject: My fork seal routine... |
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Every now and then I suffer from the leaky fork seal issue. When that happens, this is what I do:
1 - Leak confirmed.
2 - Clean the forks really good and check for pits, scratches, etc.
3 - Carefully pry off the dust caps and clean really good.
4 - And be sure to clean the top of the seal really good.
5 - Since it is already curved, I use a thin plastic cup from a sandwich shop to cut a 2 inch wide strip with a bit of a hook at one end. Then buff that hook with emery cloth till smooth and thinner on the edge like a knife. (yeah, i know what tool that looks like)
6 - I carefully force the hook between the fork and seal...
7 - Push the rest of the end between the fork and seal and work my way around the fork completely...
8 - Then tilt he hook edge up as I pull it up with the gunk trapped on the tool.
I clean all parts involved really good and repeat the process once or twice again for each fork. I then pump the forks a bit to seat them and I then drain and refill the fork oil to spec. Then off to the races at that point. |
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JammanLV

Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Posts: 10 Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:59 pm Post subject: By the way... |
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| I have over 111,000 miles and have never changed the fork seals. I have to do this routine about once a year...In the old days I used a modified feeler gauge strip just as well, but thought plastic to be much safer to the parts. |
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Jim Site Admin

Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3841 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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I put gaiters on - never had a problem since... _________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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I put gaiters on. That way I can't tell if they're leaking so I don't have to do anything about it. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | | I put gaiters on - never had a problem since... |
| Flying Duck wrote: | | I put gaiters on. That way I can't tell if they're leaking so I don't have to do anything about it. |
That makes 3 of us.....
Sugarhillctd
_________________ _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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JammanLV

Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Posts: 10 Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Ahhh...The true reasoning for the gaitors is reveled. I am gonna do the gaitor thing, if I ever have to take the front end apart. I had to get a clutch cable last week and while I was in the only local BMW dealer of Las Vegas, I asked how much to change the seals on the forks. The answer was quick and final at $400. So, one day I know I am going to have to change the seals and such myself and save enough money to get them gaitors...and a few beers too! |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 6:00 am Post subject: |
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Many of us have bought "Rancho shock boots" instead of the official $$$ BMW gaiters.
MUCH cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS1952-Shock-Boot/dp/B000CPCCFY _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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old guy old bike Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007 Posts: 373 Location: Lisbon, OH
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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+1 on the Rancho boots. _________________ 1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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carp Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 09 Jan 2009 Posts: 159 Location: Minnesota
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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+1 on rancho boots _________________ 93 K1100LT
07 Bandit 1250S |
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JammanLV

Joined: 23 Apr 2014 Posts: 10 Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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| The peer pressure worked and I ordered a set of the Rancho's just now. I was super tempted to get the red ones, but went with the black. I will start stocking up on springs, seals, pads, lines, bearings, etc for the front end and do it when I have everything. Thanks for the good link SugarHill... |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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No problem....
When you install the boots, be sure to put a small hole in the back of each one. A heated nail will do the trick. That way when the forks compress the air can escape.
Opinions vary about whether the hole should be near the top or the bottom. I don't think that the location is too crucial. _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 7:35 am Post subject: |
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I'll add a little to this, my opinion, so take it for what it's worth.....
I also added a hole at the bottom, on the backside so that any moisture accumulation can drain out, and any oil leakage will also show itself this way. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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552255 Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 13 Aug 2010 Posts: 94 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:23 am Post subject: |
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...I cut the gaiters in "open", and zip-tie stitched them on without having to do any thing else...no leaks etc. Cant even see the seam on the backside. And after changing seals once (and not adding gaiters then), occasionally do the same cleaning routine under fork seals. Changing those seals--once was enough. _________________ 1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE |
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exavid Big Brick Rider
Joined: 22 Apr 2014 Posts: 72 Location: Medford, OR
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:19 am Post subject: |
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Just got through changing fork seals yesterday on a friend's GL1500 Goldwing. I've done the job on various models of Goldwing and I still can't do it without getting the cruddy old oil splattered on me and the floor. Ugh! I spend more time cleaning up my tools and me than I do putting in the new seals and bushings.
You guys convinced me, I just ordered a pair of Rancho boots for my LT. I have a small leak on the top of the right tube. I haven't looked into it yet but never saw one that leaked at the top but not at the seals before. _________________ Paul W.
2013 C650GT
1995 K1100LT
Molon Labe |
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Reg
Joined: 01 Jul 2014 Posts: 14 Location: West of Ireland
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:18 am Post subject: Fork rebuild. |
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My K1100RS, seals exploded while circulating Connemara. Stentions need rechroming badly.
Can the fork leg be removed from the bike whilst on the center stand?? I ve a very small work space.
and would anybody have some nice pictures of the procedure, or a PDF manual
Thanks.. |
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Reg
Joined: 01 Jul 2014 Posts: 14 Location: West of Ireland
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:19 am Post subject: Fork rebuild. |
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My K1100RS, seals exploded while circulating Connemara. Stentions need rechroming badly.
Can the fork leg be removed from the bike whilst on the center stand?? I ve a very small work space.
and would anybody have some nice pictures of the procedure, or a PDF manual
Thanks.. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Yes, you can remove the forks with the bike on the center stand so long as you have some blocking under the oil pan for support. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:00 am Post subject: |
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The following pictures show what it looks like with the front wheel removed, the fork sliders removed and proper support under the engine as Scott mentioned.
AS far as a manual, have you tried to download the free pdf from www.carlsalter.com/ ? _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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Reg
Joined: 01 Jul 2014 Posts: 14 Location: West of Ireland
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:50 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for the manual, so before I attack this. All I have to do is support, and remove top and bottom allens on clamps( wheel/bridge etc), and they should slide out? so the large Nut on top of fork, slides out with it.??.Doesn't show this step on manual. Quess I'll have to make my own DIY video:idea: |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:01 am Post subject: |
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Yes. Loosen all the top and bottom triple clamp bolts and you should be able to wiggle the fork leg out. The large hex cap on the top is the same diameter as the fork leg.
CAUTION. Make sure the rest of the bike is stable and don't get to aggressive with your wiggling. _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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