K11 Owners Group

rkildu · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:30 pm Post subject: Rear Main Seal Driver

As part of my currently underway spline lube, it looks like I will be replacing the rear main seal. I have the seal on order and should have in a few days.
I have a tech bulletin #2798 that shows a special driver to insert the seal leaving a 0.5 mm of the new seal sticking out. I am used to driving seal in flush and can handle that, this is more difficult.

Has anyone come up with an alternative tool to do this?

Thanks
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:54 am Post subject:

Rod,

I don't know of anyone here that has used BMW's special tool. We have all just tapped it in using various methods- PVC pipe or coupling is popular. I did mine by gently tapping with a hammer on a small block of wood- round and round.

To get the required 0.5mm "reveal" I just took my time and gently tapped, measured, tapped, measured......

Good luck.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

old guy old bike · Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject:

A friend worked at a GM dealer and brought over a box of seal drivers. We just rooted through the box (all unmarked) and found one of the proper size. I chucked it up in my little lathe and cut a step of the proper depth. You could easily just tape or glue some feeler gages to hold the depth.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

Rafal · Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:38 am Post subject:

Hello!

Here is a drawing of the driver I had have made on a lathe.
hhttps://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SzxK3HmIhSI08wdIhwCVtNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

All dimensions in millimetres. M12 thread is to attach the handle, can be modified as required.
The seal lip and the clutch part that contacts the seal must be 100% dry and oil free!

Best regards,
_________________
Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad

, but not to far Smile

.

rkildu · Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:51 pm Post subject:

Rafel,

That is great, unfortunately I don't have a lathe or any metal working equipment. I do have a wood shop, still no lathe, and have thinking about trying to make something out of hard wood. I can cut round pieces on the band saw and make everything except the 0.5 mm relief. I think I can make up some shims to glue around the edges, it doesn't have to be a complete circle, out of metal can stock. After all, it only has to work once.

Thanks
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 1:36 am Post subject:

I think if I remember correctly from the tech bulletin, you only need to set the seal out the .5mm IF a complaint is received about oil leakage.

If you haven't been having a seal leak issue, I wouldn't worry about it.
Like John mentioned, tap, measure, tap, remeasure. Works good too.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

dave n · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:16 pm Post subject: rear main seal/clutch

Photo of my clutch housing - note how seal was contacting the rear most

point of clutch hub support (shiney area) - could be why BMW issued service

letter to install seal slightly protruding.

_________________
Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650

rkildu · Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject:

Here is my home made bearing driver. I think it will work, I'll let you know.

_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:35 pm Post subject:

That home made driver looks GREAT.

Good luck with your reassemble.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

rkildu · Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:11 pm Post subject:

It not only looks good, it performed quite well!

As soon as I took out the old seal it started dripping oil, so I had to put new one in immediately. Fortunately I had the driver ready.
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:44 pm Post subject:

rkildu · Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:44 pm Post subject:

Yep, it is a little above center of the sight glass. I made the same observation. I usually only fill to the center but it's a might higher now.
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

Jimmyd · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:36 am Post subject: Rear Main Seal

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:07 am Post subject:

To replace that output shaft seal, you obviously will have to pull the transmission and cutch basket off again.

Unless you have run the motor without oil, the bearing on the end of the output shaft is partially submerged in oil, so it should be quite lubricated and not likely to be failed.

I'd just change the seal.

To do any repairs of the output shaft, you would have to remove everything you took off to get to the sprag, then you would also have to take the oil sump off of the bottom of the block as well.
And most likely some of the front of the block will have to come off as well. Oil pump and possibley the timing chain cover, maybe.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

micky77 · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:32 am Post subject: Can I reverse damage done?

So, I replaced my clutch, o-ring, and seal about 500 miles ago, and I noticed a new drip out the weep hole the other day (damn). Anyway, I had also noticed my oil line on the sight glass was too high - very close to the top, so I drained some out to get it back to the middle (approx 1-1/2 cups). Now the question is will I keep getting the drip and ruin my new clutch or will it stop because the level is now where it should be? Any thoughts appreciated.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: Can I reverse damage done?