K11 Owners Group

Terry1100

I acquired some suitable washers and bolted the bars up - and to be honest it didn't seem to make much difference. I think I need to remove the bars while I'm doing it to ensure that the washers tighten up through the holes in the upper triple clamp properly.

Incidentally, getting to the nut was a piece of p**s from underneath the fairing with a 3/8 drive socket on a "wobbly" extension

For now I'm back to stock.

However, while attempting the job it looked to me that the greatest flex was caused by the square peg that sticks forward from the mount through a bracket (Part 17 in the drawing linked below)- with a rubber (part 4) bush mounted behind it (I hope I've described that correctly)
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0526&mospid=51710&btnr=32_0783&hg=32&fg=71

I can find nothing online that describes "rigidising" that part of the mount.

Wouldn't that be sensible - or am I missing something ?

TIA
_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500

whyoldbill

Terry1100 · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:56 am Post subject:

Aha - thanks for that.

No, I simply removed the bolt and large washer from the bottom and inserted the new washers between the rubber and the large washer.

I'll do it properly next time - at the weekend !
_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500

Terry1100 · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:22 pm Post subject:

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=436.0

Looking at this post on Motobrick and it's associated pictures, it doesn't look like putting thrust washers above the rubber makes sense.
_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:04 pm Post subject:

Terry PM or email me, I have the answer, but one cannot attach things on this forum.
Email removed (22:40) now to stop spammers.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

RAL88 · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:31 pm Post subject:

How to make K-1100 Handlebars Almost Rigid
By: Bruce Keahey
June 1998
The rubber-mounted bars on my K1100RS (converted to "C" bars) just don't cut it for me. This modification just stiffens them up so that they are *almost* rigid, enough so that they might as well be. Can you say "K1100" and "flickability" in the same breath? Actually, the bars remain rubber-mounted and there is still just a little flex, but handling is greatly improved. So for all practical purposes, they might as well be rigid. With this modification, there is slightly more vibration in the grip, but in the few miles I've ridden with it so far, it's not objectionable, but it's too soon to be sure. Vibration will probably vary with the state of engine tune and accumulated mileage. The modification is completely reversible if you don't like the result. But you probably will.
What we're gonna do is use some bronze thrust washers to compress the original rubber pieces into a smaller space than before and allow them much less room to flex as the bars torque due to rider input and cornering forces.
In the nuts and bolts section of your favorite hardware store, get 2 bronze thrust washers, 1" O.D x 5/8" I.D. X 1/8" (approx.) thick. That's all you need. Using thrust washers is neat because they're bronze, so they won't corrode, and you can specify both the O.D. and the I.D. A 9/16" I.D. *might* work, although the hole might be too small, as discussed below; I didn't disassemble things enough to make sure, and the larger hole is not detrimental. If you'd *like* to have a little flex, just use thinner washers. Or if you can't get the specified thickness, you can stack up thinner washers. My cost was 2.38 plus tax for the recommended size. Now to the actual conversion. Five steps, as follows:
1. Remove the black plastic nut covers from the handlebar mounting nuts on the bottom of the upper triple clamp, if they haven't already fallen off and gotten lost.
2. Remove the handlebar mounting nuts that the nut covers cover, and the big, thick round washer above them, between the nut and the rubber. Disassembly stops here.
3. Place one of the thrust washers on the handlebar attachment stud, from the bottom, up against the rubber. Replace the big, thick, original washer and the original nut, finger tight.
4. While holding the thrust washer so that it's centered, snug up on the nut. There is a sleeve in the rubber piece through which the handlebar mounting stud passes. This sleeve must to pass through the hole in the thrust washer you've added, and bottom out against the original washer as you tighten the nut. When everything lines up, tighten the nut until you feel the sleeve bottom out against the original washer. Tighten further depending on how comfortable you are at avoiding stripped threads.
5. Now do for other side. Replace nut covers. Go for a ride. Grin real big.
_________________
Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R

blue95lt · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:46 pm Post subject: 3/8 air hose?

Guys,I think I just used short pices of old air hose on the # 4 in that diagram,had to warm it up in hot water to get it on cause it's a tad small.But I didn't have to go thru the stealership tho! Keith
_________________
1995 k1100lt daily ride(22953)when I got it
1982 cb650sc blue nighthawk (38000)(crashed)
1974 kz400(sold to get nighthawk)

Terry1100 · Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:48 am Post subject:

Tim - Thanks, clear and comprehensive

Rich - Yes, that was the instruction set I was using

Keith - I might try that first.

cheers
_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500

Terry1100 · Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:55 am Post subject:

_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:28 pm Post subject:

Terry1100 · Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:07 am Post subject:

Tim,

Thanks - I'm now most of the way there.

The rubbers were perished and sitting behind the plate. This explains the excessive play in my handlebars - and presumably why adding washers didn't seem to help much.

I've now replaced the rubbers with two bits of garden hose with fuel line inserted in it to get a tight internal diameter. I've also tapped in a flat plate of steel at the top. There is now a little (acceptable) movement.

Now that the front will not be "working against" the actions of the washers I'll refit them and see what happens.

I'll also neaten this up with insulating tape.

_________________
Terry
London, England

1992 Kawasaki KLE500