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Che sera sera Brick Rider
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 34 Location: Guildford, UK
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:01 pm Post subject: Hello again - and some queries |
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Hi again,
Used to hang aroud these parts up to 2.5 yrs ago when my k1100rs was written off in an accident. Now I'm back with a ... k1100rs! My first return to riding after my bump.
Bought a '96 model with 53k on clock, taxed, MOT'd - paid £950. Bike hardly used in last year or so, and no documented service history (although there is evidence it's been looked after, at least a bit). New rear shock fitted.
Just given it a good going over and a few issues have reared their ugly heads. Sorry for the list, but all advice welcome please.
1) front brake master cylinder leaking. Brake works fine, but fluid is seeping / dripping. It's not the banjo bolt. I understand you can get a cylinder overhaul kit - would this fix the problem or am I looking at a whole new cylinder?
2) rattle for a couple of seconds on cold start up. Almost certainly timing chain - should I worry, and is it a big job to replace tensioner?
3) Somewhat heavier clonking on cold start up, lasts a couple of minutes then seems to disappear. Best I can say is it's about 1/4 engine speed. Could this be an alternator drive issue I've read about? Easy fix or not?
4) What appears to be gear oil on rear brake disc. Assume this is leaking out of diff. Just cleaned it all up and put it back together in order to monitor rate of leak (and hope it just goes away).
5) While the rear wheel was off I noticed some play in the swing arm - probably about 5mm side to side although this seems to disappear when shock reattached and wheel back on. This is coming from the main pivot bearings. I might try to adjust this out since replacement would mean a rear end strip down. Any thoughts?
6) Fuel guage doesn't work. I've put a meter on the connector and seen voltages there but don't really know when I'm looking for. None of the voltages change when I raise/lower the level sensor in the tank. Any thoughts?
On the plus side, bike seems smooth and powerful, and has given 57mpg on a tankful so can't be all bad. Also, I've just managed to remove and replace all of the exhaust header nuts successfully, so at least that can come off if needed, without snapping any studs.
Good to be back (and back in the saddle!)  _________________ '96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out) |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | 1) front brake master cylinder leaking. Brake works fine, but fluid is seeping / dripping. It's not the banjo bolt. I understand you can get a cylinder overhaul kit - would this fix the problem or am I looking at a whole new cylinder? |
You may be able to just dis-assemble and clean the piston bore real good with some 0000 steel wool and re-assemble and live, otherwise you could try the build kit.
| Quote: | | 2) rattle for a couple of seconds on cold start up. Almost certainly timing chain - should I worry, and is it a big job to replace tensioner? |
I wouldn't worry at this point. When the day comes you check/change valve buckets(the cams have to removed to change buckets), then would be the time to look at the chain tensioner rail.
| Quote: | | 3) Somewhat heavier clonking on cold start up, lasts a couple of minutes then seems to disappear. Best I can say is it's about 1/4 engine speed. Could this be an alternator drive issue I've read about? Easy fix or not? |
When was the last oil change, and what was put in. The alternator rubbers can make noise at low rpm, no matter the motor temp.
| Quote: | | 5) While the rear wheel was off I noticed some play in the swing arm - probably about 5mm side to side although this seems to disappear when shock reattached and wheel back on. This is coming from the main pivot bearings. I might try to adjust this out since replacement would mean a rear end strip down. Any thoughts? |
5mm is quite a bit of play,at the very least, check the bearing adjustment/torque setting. If the adjustment doesn't help then they may need replaced.
| Quote: | | 6) Fuel guage doesn't work. I've put a meter on the connector and seen voltages there but don't really know when I'm looking for. None of the voltages change when I raise/lower the level sensor in the tank. Any thoughts? |
The Yellow wire should be the wire to the gauge. With the tank connector disconnected measure the resistance from the yellow wire to the brown wire(ground). It should change as the float is moved up/down.
Green wire will be power to the fuel pump, white wire will be for the low fuel light on the dash panel. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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marklawes
Joined: 17 Aug 2013 Posts: 4 Location: Sutton In Ashfield , Notts
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Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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I had a weeping rear brake master cylinder just recently and disassembled and cleaned the inside of the cylinder with wire wool as suggested on this forum and it has not leaked since so its well worth a try. I wrapped a small length of wire wool round the end of a pencil so I could apply some sideways pressure. There was no pitting in the cylinder (which would have meant a new m/c) but when I looked really hard there seemed to be some sort of glazing in some areas which the wire wool removed.  _________________ K1100RS 1993 |
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Che sera sera Brick Rider
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 34 Location: Guildford, UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:07 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the responses. S/h master cylinder hopefully on the way from a fellow forum member. I'll also order an overhaul kit and fit it to whichever cylinder looks the best.
Re knocking noise, no service history with bike at all, so no record of oil changes but there was the right amount in there when I bought it and no nasty looking bits came out when I changed it. I might investigate the alternator drive issue in more detail as I'd like to nail it.
Thanks also for the tips on fuel sender - will get a meter on it again. Is there an easy way of testing the guage itself?
Cheers _________________ '96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out) |
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Che sera sera Brick Rider
Joined: 17 May 2010 Posts: 34 Location: Guildford, UK
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:44 am Post subject: |
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OK - some progress. Removed master cylinder. Piston and seals looked OK but there was a ridge of hardened brake fluid in the bore. Possibly evidence of bike standing for a while. Cleaned up, and touch wood no leaks now.
Re the fuel guage issue, I've tested resistance of yellow to brown wire, and just got an open circuit no matter where the level float is in its arc. I assume this means the in-tank fuel sender unit is bust?
Last MPG between fills = 60.5, so quite pleased with that. _________________ '96 K1100rs
'93 r1100rs (probably on the way out) |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3122 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Re the fuel guage issue, I've tested resistance of yellow to brown wire, and just got an open circuit no matter where the level float is in its arc. I assume this means the in-tank fuel sender unit is bust? |
That would be my take on it.
At the next step you could remove the float assy and examine it on a bench and test further, before you bite the bullet and buy a new one.... _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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