K11 Owners Group

jwetering · Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10

Hey guys;

I'm in the midst of removing my alternator so as to replace the monkey nutz. I have all the bolts out and the cables disconnected and I can pull the alternator back an inch or so but it's not clearing the ABSII module.

I have read the service manual and removing the ABS module sounds like something I would like to avoid. Searching the forum there is surprisingly little written about whether it is necessary (I got the impression that replacing monkey nutz was pretty common). So what is the experience here?

I have removed both side plates, the rear end, swing arm, drive shaft, seat, and rear fender (I'm doing a heap of winter maintenance).

Can I get away with just removing the metal rear brake lines or is that just wishful thinking?

If I do need to remove the ABSII module - what tips can be offered?

Thanks in advance.

jasper
_________________
1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE

jwetering · Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10

Well, for those of you wondering the same thing in the future I can confirm that removing the rear metal brake lines is all that is necessary to get the alternator out.

Actually, I also disconnected the wire that leads from the electrical box under the seat to the starter so that i could lift the box up by an jnch or so, that clearance is handy, and I also snipped the zip strap holding the wire bundle to the frame on the right side of the bike.

It was tight, but not the tightest squeeze I've ever worked in.

Unfortunately for me the monkey nutz appeared to be in very good condition. I'm going to replace them anyway but the whole exercise was probably unnecessary. At least I got to clean the hell out of the space and I wrapped up the ABS wiring because the sheath had degraded pretty bad.
_________________
1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE

cafedeush · Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 12:44 am Post subject:

Hi there...As you've just disconnected your alternator I was wondering if you could help me.
I bought a bike, rode it once and tore it down. I labeled everything and when I've put it back together there doesn't seem to be a connection from the alternator to the battery. there is the small spade connector and a connection to earth. Should the earth be connected to the positive terminal on the battery or does there need to be an additional cable ie earth and battery connections.
I'm not sure if I've mislabeled or there was some dodgy wiring.

thanks
Deush
_________________
'95 K1100LT
'83 R65

jwetering · Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Posts: 10

Just had a look.

There are two wires vattached to the alternator. First is a big red wire and it screws to the big terminal. In fact on my bike the wire is attached directly to the nut. That big red wire snakes up into the electrical box. Its not obvious inside the box where the wire leads (there are lots of big red wires inside it) but it looks like it leads to the largest relay in the box, which makes sense.

The second wire is a little blue one which connects to the second smaller terminal using a spade connector. I can't see where this blue wire leads because it is sheathed to the big red wire. It almost certainly does not go to the battery. My bet is that it also leads to the electrical box. Most everything does.

The ground is through the chassis I would think.

Hope that's enough to help.... Its cold and wet here and bedtime to not otherwise I'd dig deeper for you.
_________________
1988 K75s (project)
1990 K75s (collector)
1996 K1100RS SE

cafedeush · Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 1:14 am Post subject:

That's great thanks for checking...I'll have another look when I get home from work.
_________________
'95 K1100LT
'83 R65

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 7:52 am Post subject:

The little blue wire makes it's way up to the inst cluster charge indicator lamp.
The red wire is spliced with other red battery wires in the relay box.
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Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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cafedeush · Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:13 am Post subject:

Thanks...all good my wires route as mentioned. Good to know about the charge wire...I guess that's the one I will need to add a bulb to when I dump the instruments Smile

_________________
'95 K1100LT
'83 R65

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:08 am Post subject:

cafedeush · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:18 am Post subject:

Yeah I hear in theory it shouldn't work but people have had success with LED's. Duck posted this on the K100 forum http://www.k100-forum.com/t8011-leds-in-the-charging-circuit
He sells LED conversion kits for the stock gauge cluster and reckons they work fine.
I guess I could try both and see what results I get. Would much rather use an LED if I can.
_________________
'95 K1100LT
'83 R65

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:41 pm Post subject:

The thicker red wire is power back to charge the the battery.

The thinner blue wire goes to the cluster so it knows if the battery is charging or not.

Within reason, the metal brake lines can be bent to some extent but you do not want fatigue them.

hope that helps....
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
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Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:46 pm Post subject:

Jim · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:29 pm Post subject:

That's true. But if the bike is on the center stand and idling, it will kill the battery...
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

drikko · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 11:23 pm Post subject:

Am with FD on this, so if you have it on the centre stand not going anywhere, one throttle blip is all that's required to get it all going. Doesn't hurt anything.
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K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
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John Clauss · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:13 am Post subject:

Why would one run the bike for a long period of time on the center stand? That is no good for anything. The engine oiling is not meant for long periods at idle, especially if it has not been run on the road before hand.
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

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Jim · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:23 am Post subject:

I was on the shoulder of an interstate north of Pittsburgh, in a very remote area with no lighting, on a very dark night, trying to help another biker get his ride going. I killed my battery twice, and had to roll the bike down the interstate (the wrong way) to start it.

I put a regular bulb in. There is absolutely no reason to have a LED in there. That is probably the one bulb that will never burn out.

We got the bike going, but it took awhile - carburetor problem.