K11 Owners Group

david g · Joined: 14 Oct 2004 Posts: 3 Location: Iluka NSW Australia

Hi. I have a K1100LT (build date Jan 94). I had 3 cracked exhaust pipes, where they go into the front of the muffler (original standard exhaust). I decided to Tig weld (tack) them into position, before removing the whole system to reweld it on the bench. Anyway to cut a long story short, I forgot to disconnect the battery prior to commencing welding. I put the exhaust back on and now it wont run.
It has lights, indicators, horn, but on trying to start it there is no current to the fuel pump, and nothing at all from the starter button, as if the kill switch was activated. I suspect that I have cooked something in the electronics.
How can I test it? where do I go from here?
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Regards david g Embarassed

Inge K. · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 3:25 am Post subject:

Sidestand switch?

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:48 am Post subject:

Are the fuel/temp gauge needles moving/reading when you turn on the key.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

whyoldbill · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject:

Kill switch on handlebar?
I've overlooked that sucker more than once.
Also you might want to clean the 4pin fuel pump/gauge connector under the right rear corner of the fuel tank
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

david g · Joined: 14 Oct 2004 Posts: 3 Location: Iluka NSW Australia

Thankyou folks.
My model doesn't have a sidestand switch.
The kill switch is turned the centre.
I have cleaned the 4 pin plug under the right side rear of the tank. I have also check the operation of the fuel pump with a separate power supply direct to the terminals of the pump, which is ok.
Neither the fuel gauge or the temp gauge move when I turn on the ignition.
Embarassed

whyoldbill · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject:

I would try disconnecting and cleaning, at a minimum, the ABS "brain" cable as well as the one to the Motronic. It wouldn't hurt to just spend a whole afternoon cleaning connectors.
I find it hard to believe that the arc from the tig could have damaged the electronics as the path to ground for the arc would have been straight to the clamp. But electronics do defy logic sometimes...
Given the recorded history of dodgey connections on these bikes, I wouldn't suspect the worst scenario until I'd ruled out the easy solutions.
_________________
'02 - GL1800

The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:42 pm Post subject:

Ok, if you have a volt meter or test light.....

Fuse 5, feeds the power to the engine electronics relay(not coil power), the relay switches on power for the motronic controller.

Fuse 6, power feed for fuel pump relay(not coil power).

Check for +12 at both sides of fuses 5 & 6.

You say you have headlight, so that indicates that your load shed relay is functioning with the key switch power.

It appears that you are either not getting +12 coil power(from the key switch thru the kill switch) for the electronics control relay, or the ground is interrupted some how. Normally the ground is interrupted with a side stand safety switch, but you say yours doesn't have on. Could it have had one and been removed by a prior owner?
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:54 pm Post subject:

Another option would be to exchange a couple of relays. say switch the horn relay with the motronic relay, and/or the unloader relay with the fuel pump relay.

This would potentially eliminate questions about the relays themselves if they were bad.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

old guy old bike · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:18 pm Post subject:

david g · Joined: 14 Oct 2004 Posts: 3 Location: Iluka NSW Australia

Hoorah. Its fixed!!!
When I first looked for the side stand switch, I couldn't see anything that resembled a switch or anything electrical, so I did as suggested, and swapped relays, checked the operation of the kill switch, all to no avail.
I then went and had another look, and as Scott Anderson suggested, someone, before I had the pleasure or owning the old girl, had removed the side stand switch mechanism, and put a cable tie (zip) around the actual electric switch, so the contacts were permanently closed. Problem was, the cable tie was broken, allowing the switch to open, allowing the circuit to open & no start, gauges etc.
Whew! What a relief.
In the process of checking the fuel pump, I found that the sieve on the bottom of the pump was broken, so my lady sewed that up with fishing line and I replaced the fuel filter which was all but blocked up. So all in all an interesting exercise & some lessons learnt.
Thanks again to those who made suggestions. I could not have done it without you.

Regards david g

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:48 am Post subject:

Glad to hear you have it purring again......

Keep it shiny side up..
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)