K11 Owners Group

[jr'sbmw]

When the temperature gets down in the 30's F over night, on cold start ups, the abs 2 won't synchronize and the abs lights stay flashing. This has happened other years. Usually, I can travel a short distance, turn the engine off, restart and it will synchronize.

This weekend, I attended a BMW Winter Rally in north FL. at Camp Blanding and very heavy frost was on the bike when heading to breakfast. I could never get the abs lights to turn off that day, even during a warming 250 mile return trip home the next day. At home, I pulled a code 7(defective controller), cleared the code and everything is back to normal.

Any ideas, other than don't ride when it's near freezing?

\?

[Inge K.]

The ABS senses the voltage drop at start up, if it drops below a predetermined value, it releasing a fault code.
The ABS demands a good battery to function as designed, time for a new battery.

[ljjohns]

FWIW, I have a '98 Buick Regal GS, supercharged with all the bells and whistles. Started to get dashboard data making me worry: trip meter and Drivers Information Display started resetting, and periodically, after starting and driving off, all of the warning lights would go on.

Eventually, the battery became noticably problematic and I replaced it. Voila: all of the problems disappeared. I've been told what Inge has said: these systems are voltage sensitive.

Larry Johnson
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1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

[jr'sbmw]

Thanks...suggestions well taken. The battery is one year old, which means nothing. I thought the engine started quickly when covered with frost, but the voltage probably dropped too much. 20W50 oil also doesn't help for cold starts. This is the first time it set a code when it didn't synchronize.

[Inge K.]

You have batteries and you have batteries.....as with other things, you usually get what you pay for....they show their real face when it gets cold.
Also check that the battery terminals and wire connectors is tight and clean....as a bad connection anywhere in the circuit will cause a voltage drop.
A low voltage fault code is resetting itself at next startup (if all OK), but sometimes low voltage can throw other codes too (like yours now).

[Ernie-NH]

Hi all…

OK… just to interject something here ! I'll be replacing my battery this Spring, its 5 year old Oddessy PC680.. and EVERY year in early April that I take my battery out from its warm winter residence it has to learn all over again what a "cold start" means and feel again the aging process gripping its bones! ( i.e.: cells) HOWEVER the weak agony of this Spring ritual is getting the battery into position and then because of its ridiculous positioning alongside the frame, the tightening and securing of the leads to the terminals exercises EVERY cuss word I know in three languages ! Insn't there an easier way to get the damn battery into and out of a "K" bike ??

IF the connections are not clean and 'rock solid' tight, a whole list of problems will arise, INCLUDING ABS alarm flashing !

Any advise from our resident smart people here ??

Ride safe all.. Spring IS on the way…...// Ernie in NH
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AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
Airhead Beemers Club
'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7

[Niemand]

[exavid]

Yep, my bike's ABS alternating flash mode started coming on when the weather here got cold. I had the battery tested planning on replacing it but the BMW shop's fancy tester said the battery was okay. So now when it's cold I keep the battery tender on it and haven't seen the alternating flash since. I think what happens is that the engine is just enough harder to crank in the cold that it lowers the voltage enough to alarm the ABS. With the tender on it the battery voltage is a wee bit higher after sitting awhile so doesn't upset the ABS. It's definitely a low voltage alarm.
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Paul W.
2013 C650GT
1995 K1100LT

Molon Labe