K11 Owners Group

bikesnbones · Big Brick Rider Joined: 03 Aug 2014 Posts: 74

I recently sold my K1100RS to buy an LT instead.
I just got this email from the chap who bought it from me.
Could have been very nasty.
Thankfully he's OK.

"Please check and replace all your brake lines on your LT. I rode to my parents yesterday, only about 6 miles away. They werent home so I set off to visit a pal of mine. the front brake seemed to be dragging a bit and after about 1/4 of a mile I pulled over as the front was binding. I stopped but couldnt see anything wrong. So decided to ride round the corner to somewhere safe to get off and have a look. Still riding and at about walking pace the front wheel locked totally and it threw me off. Bike slid along the road. It damaged the rear indicator and scraped the front fairing as well as poping the mirror off. Luckily it was a slow drop and I was fine. I managed to upright it quickly with the help of a couple of guys that saw it happen. After about 5 mins the front freed off and I could wheel it forwards again. I was totally baffled what had just happened.

I finally got it home and found the front brake handle when pressed went all the way to the bar. The brake pipe that exits the front master cyclinder expanded like a baloon !!"

Its a bit of a mess but nothing I cant fix easily.

Jim · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:31 am Post subject:

Thanks for posting that reminder. There are at least a few threads on the forum concerning brake line issues.

All the K bikes are aging, and we know that rubber deteriorates over time. Most people tend to ignore things until something goes wrong.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

Grunter · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 3:09 am Post subject: Replaced brake pipes

I totally agree with the originator of this thread.

Do it now before it is too late. The right hand pipe on my K1100LT didn't 'balloon', but it must not have been far off as the internal structure had almost totally broken down and restricting the flow of fluid back when the brakes were released.

I replaced them with quite expensive Goodrich Stainless steel braided hoses from the master cylinder to the metal pipe and from the splitter down to the callipers and the difference is outstandingly good. They were expensive but well worth it.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

garynali · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 3:59 am Post subject:

Ditto, did the front lines on my K1100RS last year with braided stainless. Am now waiting on new back lines from motobins in UK. The original rear brake hose, ABS modulator to brake calipher just burst , luckily while I was bleeding the system.. Due to the age of the rubber items anyone riding a K1100 on the original brake lines is sitting on a time bomb.
Gary C
K1100RS
K1200GT
KLR650
Hervey Bay
Australia

wuckfitracing · Joined: 09 Mar 2016 Posts: 17

It was mine that got dropped.
Its now all back together and OK after replacing and painting a few panels.Fitted new stainless braided hoses.
Biggest problem is getting an indicator lens for the right hand side mirror. No longer available from BMW and none stocked in the UK. If anyone has a spare in the UK and they wish to exchange beer tokens for let me know.
_________________
K1100 RS 1993
Worksop Notts UK

N41EF · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 4:03 pm Post subject:

Spiegler makes stainless lines for the LT. My front brakes would "stick" when applied hard then release over a second or two after you released the lever. The new lines eliminated that and they release as soon as you do. I'm pretty sure it was the old lines breaking down and holding pressure. I never say any bulging but they were 23 years old.

Did not want sticking brakes at HM...
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

Jim · Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:50 pm Post subject:

"Did not want sticking brakes at HM..."

No, you didn't. Slow down for one of those sharp curves, have the brakes stick, and you'd be in the creek...
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

RobBowker · Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:35 am Post subject: Bleeding?

My fronts are pretty new s/s lines but the rears look original ('98 LT @ 37000). It looks lke an easy replacement and within my mechanicking abilities but I'm worried about bleeding the brakes afterwards. Clymer says go to a dealer. Is that really essential or can I just bleed like a non-ABS system?
_________________
1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)

hosehoundfr86 · Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:51 am Post subject: Re: Bleeding?

RobBowker · Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:07 am Post subject: Re: Bleeding?

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 2:04 pm Post subject:

If you replace the lines or there is lots of air in the lines then it helps if you remove the calipers and hang them from some string to a garage rafter so that the air in the lines dloats up to the bleed valves.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

wuckfitracing · Joined: 09 Mar 2016 Posts: 17

Rear was the easiest. I just unbolted the old pipe and replaced quickly. Then topped up the fluid, bled at the ABS unit then bled at the caliper untill no air came out. All lights went out when started back up.
_________________
K1100 RS 1993
Worksop Notts UK

RobBowker · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:31 am Post subject:

Corkboy · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:56 am Post subject:

RobBowker · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 10:44 am Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:35 pm Post subject:

Be careful not to overtorque the bleed valves on the final tighten.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

N41EF · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:39 pm Post subject:

it's 11mm? IIRC, I use a box end over the nipple, then put the bleed hose on. You only need to open it a quarter turn.

I also use a vac bleeder plus pump the brakes.
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)