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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:39 pm    Post subject: The journey begins Reply with quote

The harbor Freight lift table is put together and the LT is sitting on it. First thing is to build a little support stand to attach to the motor where the crash bar mounts.

Where are we heading you ask? Rear Main seal, spline lube, check the driveshaft, paint job, new tires and fix the windscreen so it will go up and down again. There are some possible side trips such as a 50Watt alternator and a new windscreen.

May also have a look at the speakers while it is all in pieces. I have not used them since I changed the receiver to Pioneer. Right now I have the preamps plumbed into my Starcom. May wire the speakers back up with a switch so I can turn them off if I want.

Open for suggestions since the machine is going to be spread all over the place.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you doing the rear main seal? If it's not leaking I don't see the point in the extra effort and cost.

If you ever plan on adding aux lighting then you might as well do the 50A upgrade.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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rkildu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 221
Location: Arkansas

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be interested in seeing your support stand. I built one when I did my spline lube but it didn't attach to the engine. It was rather inadequate, the bike tried to slip off of it. The BMW shop manual for my bike shows a 'special tool' support stand that attached to the engine like you plan to do.

Surely we can build one to serve.
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Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duck,
Rear main leak is what started this journey. That and not knowing when or if the splines were lubed. I currently run Wallyworlds finest 55W Blasters on the crash bars and am thinking I may want to step up to a better light at some point. The light scatter is rally bad with them.

Rod,
I plan on taking some pictures as I go along. Might even be able to figure out how to make them magically appear.

Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What makes you think it's a rear main seal? You can't tell until you open it up.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a oil leak as well on the '95 at the rear of the engine.
I'm thinking that it's the clutch nut o-ring being old and brittle like John's was.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
I've got a oil leak as well on the '95 at the rear of the engine.
I'm thinking that it's the clutch nut o-ring being old and brittle like John's was.


Yep, usual suspect. Once you open things up you can tell by whether the oil is leaking inside or outside of the clutch basket.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:

I'm thinking that it's the clutch nut o-ring being old and brittle like John's was.


EXACTLY. Most likely that will be the cause. But as Rusty at MaxBMW (this guy REALLY knows his parts) said- as long as you're in there, why not do the rear seal too.
And this wasn't just to sell more parts- Rusty talked me out of buying the entire clutch assembly.

It wasn't expensive ($25 or so IIRC) and I'd rather not have to do this job again too soon Shocked
Besides it is EASY to do.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thought and rear main seals aren't particularly susceptible to failure.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guess I really don't know what is leaking. Would rather not change the rear main if that isn't the problem. I have not noticed any change in the tranny fluid level but it only takes a few drops to make a mess over time.

I have not felt any clutch slip either. Guess I will find out when I open it up.

What condition should I expect the clutch to be in with 87K on it? I know it will depend on how the bike is ridden and I only know about the last 20K.

I got around to making the stand tonight. Rear wheel is off the ground so I can start taking off some of the larger pieces. Might even have to think about reading up on procedures.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff,

Kind of confusing, yes? I was referring to the ENGINE rear seal. This has nothing to do with the trans oil.

Once you pull the trans back from the engine/"bell" housing you will see what is what. Kind of a learn by doing it.

See for yourself. Let us know how it goes.......
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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TMCKRS4V
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 58
Location: NorCal

PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:36 pm    Post subject: KLT- RMS Reply with quote

Hey Jeff,

I did a tranny/drive shaft R&R on my paralever K in Sept. I too planned to do the RMS while I was there but chose not to. My RMS was only 40K /4yrs old and was not leaking. I would think about Drakes advise. I have seen the job go badly too. (By someone else who "tacoed" the thing.) So I opted to leave it. I did however replace the clutch disc, 'cause the bell housing was well bathed in Mobil 1 Gear oil. The Trans cover fractured when the front U joint failed.
See here:
http://s466.photobucket.com/albums/rr25/TMCKRS4V/KdriveRepair/

Oh.. The OEM BMW shop manual was very handy. Make sure you have it!
+ Clymers.
Be patient, you will need the heat gun and lots of loctite.
It has been about 2K since the transplant and all is good.
Planning to run up to the BMW MOA in OR this summer.
I'll see you there Drake!

Good luck,
Tom
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Tom Connolly

91 K100RS4V

Novato, CA

MOA / BMW NorCal / AMA
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TMCKRS4V
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 58
Location: NorCal

PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:42 pm    Post subject: KLT.. RMS Reply with quote

I did mean the Free. PDF version of the BMW manual of couse.

Brian Curry on the "Big List" sent it to me.let us know if you need it, I would be happy to send it to you. I think I need to Stuff the 16MB doc. (I think)

Merry Merry!
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Tom Connolly

91 K100RS4V

Novato, CA

MOA / BMW NorCal / AMA
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Ted
Site Admin


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1117
Location: Further

PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdy Tom - I would really love to have that shop manual, maybe you can upload it to Rapidshare.com? Just hit "browse" and upload it, then send me the link. It can be downloaded 10 times for free with no registration required to upload or download.
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Ted
KOG#1
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10100
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ted wrote:
Howdy Tom - I would really love to have that shop manual, .


http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4715
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Ted
Site Admin


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1117
Location: Further

PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome - I thought that was the Haynes one. I should know to look there first, that whole area is an incredible tech resource and HUGE kudos go to you for wrangling it all together.

Thanks!
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Ted
KOG#1
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I downloaded that manual not to long after I got the Bike. I think this is only about the 2nd time I have looked at it. I am sure it is going to be handy as I dig into the bike.

I have all the body off now except the rear fender. Not really in the way but I need to get after it for painting. Found one of the main mounting points broken off of the upper fairing. It shows signs of being broken for a long time. probably let go when the PO dripped it and cracked the upper fairing and took off a mirror. I plan on glue and fiberglass to put it back on. Any other suggestions?

Don't see any issues with the main fairing bracket. It does not appear to be bent and no signs of cracked welds. Found some wires that were not hooked to anything. May have been aux lights at some time. Kind of a mix of spade and bullet connectors. They are tied into what I believe is the hot for the alarm circuit but don't appear to be switched. Think it will all just go away.

Going to have to get a new speedometer sensor. Mine came out in two pieces. Damn fine wire, and a bunch of it in that little bugger.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally back at it after the holidays. Have most of the misc pieces parts out of the way.

Do I have to take the final drive apart at the knuckle or can it come out wholesale with the swingarm?
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

old guy old bike wrote:
Do I have to take the final drive apart at the knuckle or can it come out wholesale with the swingarm?


If you are just wanting to remove the tranny to get into the clutch area, yes you can remove the tranny with the swing arm and fd all intact. I did it on my '97 2yrs ago.

I haven't got the '95 totaly apart yet but I don't think you can remove the swing arm without removing the fd 1st. Not to mention that you can't check the shaft without removing the fd.

Word of caution, when you are to the point of removing the tranny, make sure you drain the oil from the bottom plug, and remove the clutch rod if you can. If Or you'll end up with a nice mess from where the clutch rod comes out.Rolling Eyes
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Final drive and swingarm out last night. So far everything looks pretty decent. U joints are tight and smooth and splines on driveshaft look to be in very good condition. Not sure what they were lubed with. Looks like anti-sieze but may be something else.

There was a tablespoon or two of clean oil when I split the final drive from the swingarm. Didn't see a clear trail as to how it got there.

Hope to get the starter and tranny out tonight.

So far only 2 items fubar. Speedo sensor and a small stainless bolt from the rear exhaust hanger.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
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