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Motronic and ABS diagnostic reference
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:40 pm    Post subject: Motronic and ABS diagnostic reference Reply with quote

I thought it would be good to have ALL the diagnostic information in one place. Some of this has been posted in various places such as:
http://largiader.com/abs/absfault.html
http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml Some of it is new.
It would be a good thing to print out and stick in your service manual or somewhere on the bike. Make the LED test lamp and stick it in your tool pouch along with a 12" length of wire.

Motronic Fault Codes, TPS Diagnostics, Fan Test and ABS Fault Codes
____________________________________________________________________________________
The following applies to 1993 K1100 K-Bikes but 'may' be valid for ALL 4-Valve K-Bikes with Motronic 2.1 and 2.2 Engine Controls (1989-1997) and all R1100 bikes with Motronic 2.2.

__________________________________________________

There is a black 3 pin diagnostic connector on the left side of the bike above and to the left of the battery, you will need to remove the side cover to gain access. This connector will have a blue plastic weather protector connected to the open end. Pin #1 will have two Brown/Black wires, Pin #2 will have one Brown/White wire and Pin #3 one Brown/Green wire. Here are the pin functions for this diagnostic connector.

Pin1: Motronic Diagnostic Fault Code Read-Out and Fan Test Activation
Pin2: ABS Diagnostic Fault Code Read-Out and RESET
Pin3: Motronic Diagnostic Activation of the Throttle Position Sensor Test.

Motronic Fault Code Readout:
Connect a common 12V LED (One acceptable LED is a Radio Shack Red LED P/N 276-270)
to pin #1 (+lead to Battery + , -lead to Pin#1). The LED is not necessary for K-bikes, the temperature warning lamp to the lower right of the tachometer will flash the diagnostic codes.
NOTE: When performing this test on an Oilhead you will need the LED since there is no temperature warning lamp.
Turn the ignition ON and short pin #1 on this connector to ground for 5 seconds, the temperature warning lamp near the tachometer will flash in unison with the test LED you have connected above. The temperature warning lamp and the LED will illuminate solid for about 2.5 seconds, then a give a number of short flashes, count the short flashes. This flash-count is the first digit of the stored fault code. Approximately 2.5 seconds of no light follows the first count, then it will flash the second count (second fault code digit) and this is repeated for the third and fourth count. This repeats until you turn the ignition off. The beginning of each fault code display sequence will be indicated by the 2.5 seconds of solid on of the temperature warning lamp and/or the Test LED.

NOTE: The Motronic Control Unit only displays 1 fault code at a time (4 digits) even if there are multiple faults. Once the first displayed fault has been recorded, repeat the Ignition OFF, Ignition ON and ground pin #1 for 5 seconds to display the next stored fault code.
Continue resolving faults until "4444" is displayed indicating all faults have been resolved.

NOTE: 1122 and 1133 faults can be spurious in nature. If either of these codes appear and you do NOT suspect a Hall Sensor problem, (In other words, you are NOT diagnosing a no-start condition), crank the engine for a few seconds and the Hall Sensor fault codes should clear. You will have a 4444 code which indicates No Faults Stored.

Code Fault
1111 CO potentiometer not detected with Oxygen sensor disconnected
1122 No signal from Hall Sensor #1 (Upper or TDC Sensor, Coil 1/4)
1133 No signal from Hall Sensor #2 (Lower or 180 Sensor, Coil 2/3)
1215 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
1223 Water Temperature Sensor out of range
1224 Air temperature Sensor out of range
2341 Oxygen sensor at limit
2342 Oxygen sensor signal invalid
2343 Mixture setting at limit
2344 Oxygen sensor shorted to ground
2345 Oxygen sensor shorted to 12V
3333 Fan Test in Progress (the fan motor will run intermittently and the 3333 code will flash)
4444 No fault stored


Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Test:
To test the TPS
Ignition OFF, Ground Pin #3 and monitor Pin #1 with a 12V LED (+lead to Battery + and -lead to Pin#1). Ignition ON, Engine OFF (Pin #3 should remain grounded during this test)
The Test LED will be ON at idle (closed throttle) and OFF just above idle. You should also be able to watch the temperature warning lamp on the tachometer blink ON at idle and OFF just above idle.
Pin #1 should be Low at idle and High just above idle. In other words, if you are measuring from ground to Pin #1 with a voltmeter, Idle should be close to 0 Volts and just above Idle should be close to 12 Volts. (This test also works for Oilheads (1994-2001) with Motronic 2.2 Engine control Units but since there is no temperature warning lamp, you must use either a voltmeter or a Test LED as described above).

NOTE: Measuring the voltage between pins 1 and 4 at the TPS connector should indicate
0.375 Volts at the idle setting (closed throttle) with ignition ON engine OFF.
Snap the throttle open/closed a few times to ensure a consistent reading. To adjust the TPS, loosen the two screws slightly and rotate the TPS until the temperature warning lamp (or the Test LED) 'just' comes ON at idle and goes OFF just above idle. If you are using a voltmeter, adjust the voltage to 0.375 at idle (closed throttle). This voltage MUST remain below 0.400 Volts at idle.

Fan Test:
To test the fan circuits, Ignition ON, Engine OFF, ground pin #1 for 10 seconds. The fan will cycle intermittently and the temperature warning lamp (or the Test LED, if connected) will flash 3333.
This indicates that the fan test is in progress. This test will continue to run until the ignition is switched off.

NOTE: Fan Test for Motronic 2.2
John from Down Under adds this:

"Fan Test works on Motronics 2.2"

1. Ignition must be OFF
2. Ground Pin 1
3. Turn ignition ON
4. Count to ten (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi,...........)
5. Unground Pin 1
6. Fan will intermittently run until ignition is turned off


ABS-I Fault Codes:
Connect the test LED (+lead to Battery + and -lead to Pin#2)
Ignition ON.
The LED will flash a number of times ONLY if there is a fault code stored. Count these short flashes to determine the ABS fault that is stored in the ABS Control Unit.

Code Fault
1 Front Pressure Modulator
2 Rear Pressure Modulator
3 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
4 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
5 Low Battery Voltage
6 Large blue ABS Relay in the relay box(Not the smaller blue ABS warning relay)
7 ABS Control Unit Defective
8 Possible Wheel Speed Sensor Gap Fault

ABS-II Fault Codes

Code Fault
3 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
4 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
5 Low Battery Voltage
6 ABS Relay in ABS Hydro Unit
7 Control Unit (mounted to side of Hydro Unit)
8 External Influence or Wheel Sensor Gap Incorrect
9 Unknown
12 Piston Fault (This can be Mechanical or Electronic in nature)



NOTE: Investigate and resolve any ABS fault code discovered with the above procedure BEFORE
resetting the fault codes.

Reset ABS Fault
Connect a wire from a good frame ground or battery - to pin #2 of the diagnostic connector.
Press and hold the ABS switch on the dash, turn the Ignition ON while holding the ABS switch depressed for 30 seconds. (Some folks report this works better if you turn on the Ignition and THEN press the ABS switch for 30 seconds. Both methods have worked for me). Release the ABS switch, turn the ignition OFF, remove the ground wire from pin #2. The ABS fault code 'should' now be erased. Go back to the fault
code display procedure to ensure there are no more faults stored. Only 1 fault can
be displayed at a given time.

K1100 ABS-II Low Voltage Fault Fix
To rid your bike of low voltage faults on start up, disconnect the battery. remove the large connector from the ABS Hydro Pump and remove the connector cover. Cut the Green wire that goes to pin #15 about 3" from the connector. Insulate the harness side of this Green wire(it will NOT be used) and connect the pin #15 side to terminal #87 (Green/Blue wire) of the Load-Shed relay (I thread the new wire (at least 23AWG) into the connector with the original harness wires and make the connection 'inside' the connector housing). You can remove the load-shed relay and splice the new wire from the bottom. This terminal should only have 12V on it with the ignition ON. It should go away during engine cranking.
I would only recommend this modification if you have already installed headlamp relays. Installing the relays WILL increase the light output of your headlamp and ensure that your Hi/Lo switch will last almost forever since all the headlamp current will now be carried by the new relays.
This modification 'might' work without installing headlamp relays but I've only tested it on bikes with the relays installed.
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ


Last edited by bmwmick on Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:45 pm; edited 10 times in total
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9061
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's great info.

Now that lots of 12V LEDs are available, there's no need to make anything, you can just hook up a 12V LED to read fault codes.
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Yes, that's great info.

Now that lots of 12V LEDs are available, there's no need to make anything, you can just hook up a 12V LED to read fault codes.


On our K-Bikes you don't even need the LED. The Temp warning lamp in the
tach works as the 'human' interface. Smile
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 4:28 pm    Post subject: Great Work Reply with quote

Mick, you are a legend. It sure beats trolling the site and sifting thru all the hits until you find all you need.

I just noticed the size of my Avatar. It is hosted thru photobucket. Anyone know how to make it smaller.
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Regards,

John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Great Work Reply with quote

Sugar wrote:

I just noticed the size of my Avatar. It is hosted thru photobucket. Anyone know how to make it smaller.


Wash it and dry it in a VERY hot dryer? Smile

Send it to me and I'll shrink it. Or you can use
Windows Paint, under Accessories.

Mick

John,
I sent you a reduced size Avatar Sugar_sm.gif
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mick, is there somewhere to get the codes for ABS II? Some of us with newer bikes are feeling left out! Laughing Only 12 votes!!! Come on, it doesn't hurt to vote. Maybe there's only 11 '93s out there. (I voted) Wink
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mystic Red wrote:
Mick, is there somewhere to get the codes for ABS II? Some of us with newer bikes are feeling left out! Laughing Only 12 votes!!! Come on, it doesn't hurt to vote. Maybe there's only 11 '93s out there. (I voted) Wink


I Added the ABS-II Fault codes to the original post. Happy now? Sheesh

Mick Cool Cool Cool Cool Cool
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 5:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mick, thanks for washing & drying my Avatar, It looks good now.


I am now going to build a small box incorporating a selector switch, LED and push button so that I can plug it into the test point, select what I want to monitor and push the putton and count the Led flashes. I was thinking I could even take it one step further and wire in a counter circuit and a digital display, just like the real thing except about $$$$$$ cheaper.

Thanks Mick, you've done well.
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Send me 50 cents for the 'shrink job' had to turn the dryer on HIGH. Smile

Our K-Bikes don't even need the LED. The Temp Warning lamp serves that purpose.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Mystic Red
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Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mick, we appreciate it! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466
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hockeyshifter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 163
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GREAT JUST GREAT ... i have spent the better have of 2 and 1/2 hours preping a post to look for help on were my diagnostic plug is located ( ie removal of tail lamp, pictures and other assorted items ) not to mention learing how to use PICTURE IT 7.0 to get all the pic's to look right ...

AND BMWMICK HAS JUST SHOT THE FW190 D OUT OF THE SKY AT A 100 MILES WITH A CAP GUN

Laughing Very Happy

bmwmick thanks for the great post . this is the best info i have seen to date on the quick diagnostic of simple problems and clearing the fault codes

Now i can get on to more important thing like why my parking lights have quite working and the hazard light at the switch will no turn on..
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little feedback.

For some reason, the Fan Test won't work on my bike (k1100LT-SE '96)

I tried earthing pin #1 for 10 seconds and it just goes into Motronic test mode.

If held for 15 seconds, you get a constant 1 second on, 1 second off light flash.

And no matter what I did, I couldn't crank the engine enough to get rid of that bloody 1133 code (not that I'm worried about that, the bike runs like a dream).

I have built my little test box and it works a treat. I even put one of those plugs on it so that it plugs into the auxiliary socket right next to the coils. I used a few pin plugs (same as the ones you can get for DB25's or DB9's) to plug into the test point. It now travels with me in the ducktail.

All I have to do now is laminate the codes and carry them in the ducktail with everything else I carry.



Mick, will that be 50 cents US or OZ. And did you change your household to 50 hertz when you used the drier? Because I don't wan't no stinking 60 hertz Avatar
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sugar wrote:
A little feedback.

For some reason, the Fan Test won't work on my bike (k1100LT-SE '96)




Mick, will that be 50 cents US or OZ. And did you change your household to 50 hertz when you used the drier? Because I don't wan't no stinking 60 hertz Avatar


John,
Maybe they removed the Fan test in Motronics MA 2.2 I'll try that on my riding partners '96 K1100LT one of these days.

As for the Avatar, Yes, I mistakenly used 60Hertz for the shrinkage in the dryer. Hence the little grid pattern in your Avatar..... Sorry Smile

I 'should' have charged you $0.70 ......
0.50 USD = 0.697514 AUD
Laughing

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's no grid pattern. It is a Scottish swordfish wearing a tartan coat.
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 905
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sugar wrote:
That's no grid pattern. It is a Scottish swordfish wearing a tartan coat.


Hey John,
I LIKE that explanation! Very Happy All my ancestors are from the Isle of Skye.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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