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Motronic and ABS diagnostic reference
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mystic Red wrote:
Mick, I just turned the kill switch to off and cranked and it cleared but I didn't get the 4444. I'll play with it again and see what happens but it seemed to always give me the 1133 when I grounded #1 pin.


So you cranked it with the kill switch off, then immediately put the ground on pin #1 for 5 seconds and you got what..........? 1133? Don't turn the ignition off between cranking to get rid of the 1133 and putting the ground jumper on pint #1 for 5 seconds.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Mystic Red
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Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha!! I'll try that formula. Thanks for your reply Mick. Can't remember how I was doing it but I'll pay much closer attention now. Smile
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
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estestest



Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Mick

very interesting reading! Congratulations!

Can I post a translated version of your topic on this Italian bmw forum?
www.quellidellelica.com

It is an Italian speaking forum, but you are welcome if you want to subscribe.

Many thanks

Emanuele
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emanuele,
Yes, feel free to post it as long as it includes all the links.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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estestest



Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bmwmick wrote:
Emanuele,
Yes, feel free to post it as long as it includes all the links.

Mick


Thank you Mick. Your text has been really appreciated!
Here is the link:
http://www.quellidellelica.com/vbforum/showthread.php5?t=70891
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
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Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It appears that on the Motronics 2.2 you need to have the sidestand up to get any readings.

Can anyone else prove this?
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sugar wrote:
It appears that on the Motronics 2.2 you need to have the sidestand up to get any readings.

Can anyone else prove this?


That is correct. 12V for the Motronic Relay is via the sidestand interlock switch.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
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Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fan Test works on Motronics 2.2

1. Ignition must be OFF
2. Ground Pin 1
3. Turn ignition ON
4. Count to ten (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi,...........)
5. Unground Pin 1
6. Fan will intermittently run until ignition is turned off





For those of you wanting to make a cheap and easy 'BMW Test Box' http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/kal64/BMWTestBox.jpg

If you have any hassles, drop me an email or post here.



Mick, feel free to add the bit at the top to the list.
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John

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'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
I added your 2.2 Fan Test comments.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Mick Bailey



Joined: 07 Aug 2006
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have the pin-outs to the Motronic fitted to a '94 K1100RS? The F Warner Motronics diagnostic link (showing motron_connector.gif) gives different pin-outs to my own bike. I don't actually know which version is fitted to this machine - there are quite a few numbers on the label, but none make any sense.

Using that particular drawing as a reference, my connector only has pins fitted to 1,2,3,6,7,8,9,12,13,14,15,19,20,21,23,24,26,27,28,29,31,31,33. This makes the checks described impossible to perform.

I need to check out why my bike is running rich. I took it to the garage today to get the CO checked. The readings were so unstable that I couldn't get a definitive reading. For a very brief second it showed 1.5% and then went straight up to 6%. The best I could get was in the 3-4% range. The CO screw had very little effect and regardless of which way it was turned the CO could go up or down, with no correlation to the actual screw position. UK bike, BTW.
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nobu



Joined: 13 Feb 2005
Posts: 23
Location: Japan

PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:43 am    Post subject: Code Fault 1111 Reply with quote

I made diagnosis box for Motronic. Today, I checked for Motronic on my K1100LT. But I encoutered the following code. Sad
Quote:
1111 CO potentiometer not detected with Oxygen sensor disconnected

I guess that...
"CO potentiometer does not work" or "Each connector has loose connection" Is this correct ? Any comment?
My K1100LT ('92) is Non-Catalyser model.

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BMW K1100LT `92
SUZUKI Vecster 125
YAMAHA TDR80
Renault Kangoo
TOKYO JAPAN
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a NON-CAT model, you should have the CO potentiometer connected. You can disconnect it and check the resistance of the pot.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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nobu



Joined: 13 Feb 2005
Posts: 23
Location: Japan

PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:39 am    Post subject: Thanks!! The LED said [4444] Reply with quote

bmwmick wrote:
You can disconnect it and check the resistance of the pot.


Today, I have checked the resistant of the pot. Then I found it out the pot does not work fine.

Each value is as follows.
A-C 1.051K ohm / A-B 1.051K ohm / B-C 0.002 ohm



I deduced that pot has loose connection. And I tried turn and re-turn pot. After do that, the digital multi-meter shows correct value A-B 640 ohm and B-C 409 ohm. I hope these values is non problem.
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------------------------------
BMW K1100LT `92
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YAMAHA TDR80
Renault Kangoo
TOKYO JAPAN
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It appears that B & C are shorted together.

Try rotating the pot to one end, take your readings, then rotate the pot fully to the other end and do your readings again.

Effectively the total resistance should be seen across A-C.
(in this case 1.051K)

B will return a reading proportional to how far it has travelled between A & C. (EG, if the pot was set so that B was about half way thru it's travel, you would expect approx 500 Ohms between B and the either A or C.

Obviously if B is wound to one extreme or the other, you would expect zero Ohms, or there abouts Between B one of the others and the total resistance between B and the other.
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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rover759
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts: 68
Location: Houghton Regis,UK

PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

guys and gals
I bought one of these and they work just fine!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scan-Tool-BMW-K-1-100-1100-and-R-850-1100-GS-R-RS-RT-LT_W0QQitemZ250169549811QQihZ015QQcategoryZ76120QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rover759 wrote:
guys and gals
I bought one of these and they work just fine!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scan-Tool-BMW-K-1-100-1100-and-R-850-1100-GS-R-RS-RT-LT_W0QQitemZ250169549811QQihZ015QQcategoryZ76120QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



This is not a genuine BMW Tester. It probably does what it states however I believe it should read....

"Check and YOU CAN adjust the throttle flap potentiometer"

for a cost of $5 Aus, you can build your own with the info mentioned above.
You don't need an expert to do it either
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John

KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE

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bmwmick
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Joined: 07 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch. Smile

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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Sugar
Oz Brick Rider


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bmwmick wrote:
John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch. Smile

Mick


The key word here is "Genuine" I guess it is genuine because he made it himself, and the fact that BMW don't make that exact item, he can call it that. but I wonder how long it will be before the BMW Nasties begin to swoop.
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John

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'96 K1100LT-SE

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kewheels
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Joined: 13 Nov 2007
Posts: 25
Location: Salt Lake City,Utah

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:39 am    Post subject: ABS II Reply with quote

I was told by my trusty wrench that I had a Fault code 7 on my 96RS. That the control unit would have to be replaced for 2K. This happened as a result of me not seeing a slick wet spot in a parking lot. My 95RS has been done harder and no problem. Is there any way around me this.
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bmwmick
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Joined: 07 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you really have a solid Code 7, you can try to find a Hydro Unit with a mechanical failure and just swap the Control board from that one to yours.

Have you verified his diagnostics?

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
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'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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