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nobu
Joined: 13 Feb 2005 Posts: 23 Location: Japan
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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:43 am Post subject: Code Fault 1111 |
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I made diagnosis box for Motronic. Today, I checked for Motronic on my K1100LT. But I encoutered the following code.
Quote: | 1111 CO potentiometer not detected with Oxygen sensor disconnected |
I guess that...
"CO potentiometer does not work" or "Each connector has loose connection" Is this correct ? Any comment?
My K1100LT ('92) is Non-Catalyser model.
_________________ ------------------------------
BMW K1100LT `92
SUZUKI Vecster 125
YAMAHA TDR80
Renault Kangoo
TOKYO JAPAN
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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If you have a NON-CAT model, you should have the CO potentiometer connected. You can disconnect it and check the resistance of the pot.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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nobu
Joined: 13 Feb 2005 Posts: 23 Location: Japan
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Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:39 am Post subject: Thanks!! The LED said [4444] |
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bmwmick wrote: | You can disconnect it and check the resistance of the pot. |
Today, I have checked the resistant of the pot. Then I found it out the pot does not work fine.
Each value is as follows.
A-C 1.051K ohm / A-B 1.051K ohm / B-C 0.002 ohm
I deduced that pot has loose connection. And I tried turn and re-turn pot. After do that, the digital multi-meter shows correct value A-B 640 ohm and B-C 409 ohm. I hope these values is non problem. _________________ ------------------------------
BMW K1100LT `92
SUZUKI Vecster 125
YAMAHA TDR80
Renault Kangoo
TOKYO JAPAN
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Sugar Oz Brick Rider
Joined: 10 Apr 2003 Posts: 254 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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It appears that B & C are shorted together.
Try rotating the pot to one end, take your readings, then rotate the pot fully to the other end and do your readings again.
Effectively the total resistance should be seen across A-C.
(in this case 1.051K)
B will return a reading proportional to how far it has travelled between A & C. (EG, if the pot was set so that B was about half way thru it's travel, you would expect approx 500 Ohms between B and the either A or C.
Obviously if B is wound to one extreme or the other, you would expect zero Ohms, or there abouts Between B one of the others and the total resistance between B and the other. _________________ Regards,
John
KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE
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rover759 Big Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Jul 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Houghton Regis,UK
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Sugar Oz Brick Rider
Joined: 10 Apr 2003 Posts: 254 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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This is not a genuine BMW Tester. It probably does what it states however I believe it should read....
"Check and YOU CAN adjust the throttle flap potentiometer"
for a cost of $5 Aus, you can build your own with the info mentioned above.
You don't need an expert to do it either _________________ Regards,
John
KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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Sugar Oz Brick Rider
Joined: 10 Apr 2003 Posts: 254 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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bmwmick wrote: | John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch.
Mick |
The key word here is "Genuine" I guess it is genuine because he made it himself, and the fact that BMW don't make that exact item, he can call it that. but I wonder how long it will be before the BMW Nasties begin to swoop. _________________ Regards,
John
KOG#57
Ulysses#36185
'96 K1100LT-SE
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kewheels Brick Rider
Joined: 13 Nov 2007 Posts: 25 Location: Salt Lake City,Utah
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:39 am Post subject: ABS II |
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I was told by my trusty wrench that I had a Fault code 7 on my 96RS. That the control unit would have to be replaced for 2K. This happened as a result of me not seeing a slick wet spot in a parking lot. My 95RS has been done harder and no problem. Is there any way around me this. _________________ 96 K11RS MarRed Salt Lake City
90 R100 GS/PD RedWhite Salt Lake City |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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IF you really have a solid Code 7, you can try to find a Hydro Unit with a mechanical failure and just swap the Control board from that one to yours.
Have you verified his diagnostics?
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch. Smile
Mick |
Does Drake speak German? _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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Mystic Red wrote: | Quote: | John,
Looks to me like someone is making a lot of money putting my LED in a plastic box with a switch. Smile
Mick |
Does Drake speak German? |
Nein! _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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tibbe Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2003 Posts: 190 Location: Lulea Sweden
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Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Mick
A BIG thanks from Sweden too.
Just what I neededm has a -94 K11LT that will not rew abowe 3krpm, regardless of gear and torque.
Was wery close to ask it there are any adepter to OBD II, but there are no need for it now. Or are there any adepter to OBD II?
Even if I can't ride it at the moment ( no spiketyres ), I can always check the codes.
/All the best
Sven-Erik Tiberg |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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tibbe wrote: | Hi Mick
A BIG thanks from Sweden too.
Just what I neededm has a -94 K11LT that will not rew abowe 3krpm, regardless of gear and torque.
Was wery close to ask it there are any adepter to OBD II, but there are no need for it now. Or are there any adepter to OBD II?
Even if I can't ride it at the moment ( no spiketyres ), I can always check the codes.
/All the best
Sven-Erik Tiberg |
Sven-Erik,
That sounds a lot like low fuel pressure. Does it idle OK?
Can't hurt to check the codes.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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Bumping so it doesn't get archived. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Flying Duck wrote: | Bumping so it doesn't get archived. |
_________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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cburgess594
Joined: 21 Mar 2012 Posts: 17 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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bmwmick wrote: | Sugar wrote: | That's no grid pattern. It is a Scottish swordfish wearing a tartan coat. |
Hey John,
I LIKE that explanation! All my ancestors are from the Isle of Skye.
Mick |
And implies to..... |
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RobBowker Brick Rider
Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Posts: 43 Location: Oxfordshire, UK
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Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 4:08 pm Post subject: Clarity |
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First, thanks so much for collating the info in the OP - marvellous stuff.
Just to be clear (and please forgive my ignorance), to get a fault code for ABSII, I need to ground pin#2 of the diagnostic plug, turn on the ignition and count the flashes on the temp light below the tacho? Or am I missing something? _________________ 1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running) |
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bmwmick Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003 Posts: 907 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 9:04 pm Post subject: Re: Clarity |
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RobBowker wrote: | First, thanks so much for collating the info in the OP - marvellous stuff.
Just to be clear (and please forgive my ignorance), to get a fault code for ABSII, I need to ground pin#2 of the diagnostic plug, turn on the ignition and count the flashes on the temp light below the tacho? Or am I missing something? |
Rob,
Go back to page one and read it carefully. You need the test LED to read-out the ABS faoults. The temp lamp only displays Motronic faults on K-bikes.
Mick _________________ Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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RobBowker Brick Rider
Joined: 16 Oct 2014 Posts: 43 Location: Oxfordshire, UK
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Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Mick. Late reply but I was just referring someone else to this thread and remembered. I did read it carefully. It is a bit (tiny bit) hard to follow as you aren't sure whether you are reading ABSI or ABSII instructions but the best thing is to just try it. It works! That's the main thing. I have rarely felt such joy as waiting those 30 seconds of re-set. Firing up and seeing (and hearing) everything work just fine. Who'd have thought ABSII hydro relays would unstick themselves? _________________ 1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running) |
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