K11 Owners Group

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:51 pm Post subject: What would Jesus do? (Fork Seals)

So, I've got a moisrt right fork on the K11RS (which I'll be riding home from Palm Springs after Chrsitmas.)

The options:

1) SWAP IN UPGRADED K100RS4V FORKS - I kept the good forks from my K100RS4V before I sold it. They have recently replaced fork seals and also have upgraded springs and adjustable preload. So, I could take those forks with me when I fly down, just pull the K11RS forks and pop in the K100 forks and then ship the K11RS forks home.

Adjustable preload:

2) REPLACE THE FORK SEALS IN THE K11RS FORKS IN PALM SPRINGS - I'd have to do this without access to many tools or my workshop at home. It's certainly possilbe but will be kind of a PITA. But at least my brother will be there if I need a helper to get the forks apart.

3) RIDE 1,000 MILES WITH A LEAKY FORK BEFORE REPLACING THE SEALS - My other option is to put about another 1,000 miles on the bike before I get to my Buddy's place in SF who has a bike lift, LOTS of tools and would be an excellent helper.

So, what would Jesus do? Anyone have an opinion if the factory RS forks or my upgraded K100RS4V forks are better? (I know they have different cartridges or whatever but I'm no suspension expert.)

I lean towards option 1 since it will be easiest (don't have to mess with getting the forks apart and back together) and the adjustable preload will allow me to dial in the front suspension.

FYI: I'd say both sets of forks are in similar good to very good cosmetic condition.

I'll also be adding fork boots. (I love fork boots, they save a lot of maintenance because you never know if your forks are leaking so you don't have to replace the seals. Rolling Eyes

)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

max · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:08 pm Post subject:

Drake - it's basic safety: badly leaking seal = oil on brakes = accident waiting to happen. Are you going to stop every 25mi to check/degrease the fork leg? Then every 150-200 to re-top it off with oil so you keep consistent damping? (remember, if one side goes first, you'll be like half a pogo stick).

If you're doing it sporty on the RS, do it with working forks & have a good Xmas...

Max

mnb · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:59 pm Post subject:

How bad is it leaking? I've had major seal failures and minor. Major would drip down pretty quick and minor took hundreds of miles to drip down and was manageable by wipe downs at each fill up.

Phil Marvin · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:31 pm Post subject:

Hi, Drake,
I believe the RS forks are the same as the RT. In '99, I rode my LT from El Paso to (near) Orlando, FL to visit my mother at Christmas. While there, I noticed oil on the right fork - leaking seal. A call to BMW of Daytona brought the message that we "think" we have all the parts necessary (we do have the seals, but not other parts which MAY need to be replaced) and we'll open in three days (the next Tuesday) and try to take care of you. With these certainties, I opted to ride home to El Paso and do it where I had my tools and time to do it correctly. It was a little messy (I rode the 1700 miles non-stop except for fuel and necessary breaks), but the oil didn't get onto the brake disc. That's my experience. YMMV!
Ride Safe(ly),
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Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Moondog · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:33 pm Post subject:

Having not the pleasure of doing the job, how many tools? Too many to ship also and do it in Palm Springs. But everyone brings up a good point. How much is it leaking? You said "seeping". A seep could turn nasty or it could not. I try to always lean toward the safe side. IMHO
_________________
"Badges? We don't need no stinking badges"!

I like the social aspect of riding. Rally's, socializing, drinking beer, fartin' and carrying on. Smile

2004 R1150RS
1996 K1100RS (moved on to new home)

Mystic Red · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:38 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:13 pm Post subject:

Well, at this point in time, it's really not much of a leak. I was just doing a walkaround of the bike before I left it there and noticed that the right fork was slippery. So at this point I doubt that much oil has escaped or that it's doing more than seeping lightly. But, I"m going to have to do something about it soon so I might as well correct the issue sooner rather than later and not have to worry about it.

As for tools, all I really need is the kit on the bike and a big socket for the fork cap. The thing that's a pain is finding the right tool that get that danged clip out of there.

Given the voting so far, I think I'll just take the K100RS4V forks down there since swapping them won't be that hard - probably about two hours at a relaxed pace and about three beers. Very Happy

And the garage is warmer too. Very Happy

I don't think it'd pose any real safety issue since the leaking has just started but I guess I'd prefer to have non-leaking forks so I don't have to worry about it. Also, when I get home, I can redo the K11 forks at my leisure and have them around as I suspect my LT will spring a leak sooner or later too.

I guess the real reason I posted was to see if anyone knew if the cartidge difference was significant enough to make it worthwhile to do the K11 forks on the road. Because, if there really were a difference worth keeping the K11 forks on that bike then I would do them on the road if I had to.

As for getting inspected at the airport, I've found that if you wrap the heck out of something and make it so hard that they'll be happy just running them through an x-ray or whatever. Maybe I'll write "Motorcycle Parts" on the box to make their job easier and so they don't pull the package apart. I don't want the forks to be pulled out for inspection and be repackaged by them and have the forks rubbinjg against each other and causing scratches.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Off the grid · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject:

Always upgrade if you have the choice.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

owrstrich · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:19 pm Post subject:

i looked at the banned items at the tsa website...

k100 and k1100 forks are not listed as banned items...

http://www.tsa.gov/assets/pdf/Prohibited%20and%20Permitted%20Items_printerfriendly_3-16-07.pdf

fyi...

owrstrich
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yeeeeeehaaaaaaa...

Klinker · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:36 pm Post subject:

I rode from Wendover, NV to Sioux Falls, SD with a slight leak on the right cartridge. Got home OK. Was a little nervous about it, though.

WWJD? Forgive you if you chose the wrong option... Wink

Nice Santa Duc, Duck!
_________________
tlp
1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
- Page Griffin

Mystic Red · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:50 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:14 pm Post subject:

Carl · Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:40 am Post subject: Fork Seals

FD, whatever you decide to do, in the mean time, a quick procedure that could fix the problem. Slide some 35mm film or a very thin feeler gauge beside the fork seal and work it around the fork leg. Sometimes there is some grit caught in the seal making it leak and this will dislodge the grit and the seal is good to go.
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Carl

Flying Duck · Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: Fork Seals

Rider · Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:43 pm Post subject: Clip removal tool

I've always used a dental pick with a sharp end to lever that clip in the fork slider out.

Merry Christmas and safe riding everyone.

Ed
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2007 650 Burgman, 2003 400 Burgman

Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you.

Das Boot · Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:20 pm Post subject:

Duck,

Carl's trick is an old school one that works. It worked for me without removing anything, but I was fortuante to have a ton of feeler gauges to find the right size.
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Dom

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:02 pm Post subject:

So, I'm back in CA with my baby now. Beemered

Sunny skies and dry streets.

I brought my feeler gauge with me. This one has MANY blades. I suppose the drill is to use the thinnest one possible that doesn't collapse when you try to insert it, right?

What's the technique? Slip it in carefully on one of the sides and then use a slight up and down sawing motion as I move it around the front of the fork to the other side? (My assumption is that if there is dirt trapped in the seal that it is in the front.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Mystic Red · Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:14 pm Post subject:

Just a thought Duck, you might want to lubricate the selected feeler gauge with fork oil before inserting it.
_________________
Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466

Carl · Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm Post subject: Fork Seals

FD, that technique should work, and you might as well work it all the way around the fork leg. Grit is tricky. And a little lube, as in many things, would be a good idea. Good luck.
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Carl

jaaars · Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 19 Location: Ashland Oregon

That job takes about 45 mins. get the numbers from the old seal and go to a local NAPA store, the seal should be in stock. Just pull the leg off and replace the seal on the bike, this should get you home. Have very merry Christmas and ride safe! Jeff
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Boot and Saddles