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Many tech questions! Can I join your motorcycle gang?
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:59 pm    Post subject: Many tech questions! Can I join your motorcycle gang? Reply with quote

Greetings,

I own a 1992? K100RS which so far has been a very reliable ride. I purchased it with 27.5k miles and have put about 9k on it since my purchase. Several weeks ago the right side (facing bike) fork seal blew so I decided it was time for a major tear down and maintenance service. I have got the thing down to just the transmission and engine still in the frame and I have some questions.

1. I replaced seals in both forks. My manual (Clymers) shows that my forks are for a 1991 model yet the PO and title both say 1992. Is there a way to tell for sure what year my bike is supposed to be?

2. The bobbins on the right side disk need replacing (will replace both sides) and what I have found on this site say there should be 3 spring? type bobbins (every fourth bobbin) but I don't see any difference in the bobbins that are currently on the disk. Is this K1100 specific or should the k100 be this way also? Are bobbin kits available with the correct number of normal and spring type bobbins?

3. I have my final drive off and noticed that the U-Joint has a fair amount of side-to-side play (perpendicular to the length of the drive line). Is this normal? Seems to me that there should be no side-to-side movement.

4. There was fluid in the bottom of the boot (between final drive and swing arm) when I removed the final drive. Is this normal or do I have a transmission seal or final drive seal that is leaking?

5. Where the clutch actuator arm goes into the transmission there is a little rubber bootie acting as a dust seal. When I removed the clutch cable the actuator arm fell out of this bootie and now transmission fluid is leaking out. Is this normal or is a seal gone?

6. While riding if I take my hands off the handle bars the bike pulls to the right. I can counter act this by sliding my butt off to the left and can keep it moving in a straight line but it does take some effort. What should I look for to get the think to track true?

I hate to ask so many questions right off the bat but I want this bike back to normal as the weather is turning better and I am anxious to get my leg back over her.

I'm also replacing the rubber with Michelin Pilot Road 2's and I am anxious to see how they perform as they cost an arm and a leg. Had regular Michelin Pilot Road's and got very good performance out of them; handled well and good milage (~ 11-12k).

Thanks for any advice.

Milton S.

Shameless plug.

The BMWMCC is proud to present the
36th Annual Top O' The Rockies Rally!

Paonia, Colorado

July 24-27, 2008
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:34 am    Post subject: Re: Many tech questions! Can I join your motorcycle gang? Reply with quote

Comments in red.

Milton wrote:
Greetings,

I own a 1992? K100RS which so far has been a very reliable ride. I purchased it with 27.5k miles and have put about 9k on it since my purchase. Several weeks ago the right side (facing bike) fork seal blew so I decided it was time for a major tear down and maintenance service. I have got the thing down to just the transmission and engine still in the frame and I have some questions.

1. I replaced seals in both forks. My manual (Clymers) shows that my forks are for a 1991 model yet the PO and title both say 1992. Is there a way to tell for sure what year my bike is supposed to be?

It depends. Your bike has two "years." One is the manufacturing year(when your bike was actually made) and the other is the model year(what shows up on your title). Generally(but not ALWAYS) the manufacturing year is one year prior to the model year.

When looking at parts diagrams, refer to the manufacuring month and year.

To know what month and year your bike was made, go to the link below and enter the last 7 digits of the VIN:
http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

Go with the pictures and directions in Clymers that match what you found inside.



2. The bobbins on the right side disk need replacing (will replace both sides) and what I have found on this site say there should be 3 spring? type bobbins (every fourth bobbin) but I don't see any difference in the bobbins that are currently on the disk. Is this K1100 specific or should the k100 be this way also? Are bobbin kits available with the correct number of normal and spring type bobbins?

You have the springy ones - or you should. Search here on "bobbins" and there's a list of parts you should order and directions/pointers on how to do it. (like rotating the spriny ones one notch to even out rotor/carrier wear.

3. I have my final drive off and noticed that the U-Joint has a fair amount of side-to-side play (perpendicular to the length of the drive line). Is this normal? Seems to me that there should be no side-to-side movement.

The U-joints should be solid. When reassembling, be sure to sychronize the U-joints on the front and rear halves of the shaft. Search on "synchronize u-joints" for more info on this.

4. There was fluid in the bottom of the boot (between final drive and swing arm) when I removed the final drive. Is this normal or do I have a transmission seal or final drive seal that is leaking?

Yes, you have a leak. If there's no oil on the bottom of the inside of the swing arm then you can deduce that it's the final drive seal. (Drop me a PM if you'd rather replace the final drive than spend the money to have the seal fixed - I've got spares.)

5. Where the clutch actuator arm goes into the transmission there is a little rubber bootie acting as a dust seal. When I removed the clutch cable the actuator arm fell out of this bootie and now transmission fluid is leaking out. Is this normal or is a seal gone?

Normal, not an issue. If the boot looks old, now is a good time to replace it while you have things apart. They do wear out and it's a pain to pull the bike apart just to replace that little boot.

6. While riding if I take my hands off the handle bars the bike pulls to the right. I can counter act this by sliding my butt off to the left and can keep it moving in a straight line but it does take some effort. What should I look for to get the think to track true?

"They all do that" You can experiment with removing the spacer ring or adding another and it MIGHT help. Most of us just live with it though.

I hate to ask so many questions right off the bat but I want this bike back to normal as the weather is turning better and I am anxious to get my leg back over her.

I'm also replacing the rubber with Michelin Pilot Road 2's and I am anxious to see how they perform as they cost an arm and a leg. Had regular Michelin Pilot Road's and got very good performance out of them; handled well and good milage (~ 11-12k).

Thanks for any advice.

Milton S.

Shameless plug.

The BMWMCC is proud to present the
36th Annual Top O' The Rockies Rally!

Paonia, Colorado

July 24-27, 2008


Welcome... don't worry about the questions. At least you didn't start an oil thread. Laughing
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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mnb
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Jun 2007
Posts: 660
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd recommend installing gaitors on your forks unless you like replacing seals.
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1997 BMW K1100LT ABS Special Edition
2003 Husqvarna TE610e
2007 Harley Davidson Road King
2009 BMW F800GS
2011 Husqvarna TE310
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Duck,

Thanks for your reply. I have figured out, puzzled out and just plain used your advice on some of my issues.

1. Bike was assembled 08/1991. Thanks for that link it was very useful.

2. I looked at the bobbins more carefully and every fourth one is different. There is a small ring/spring around them. The spring bobbins I took off had the spring/ring in pieces. The left side disk is very loose. I would think that they should last more than 36K. Will replace both sides.

3. Again thanks for the "synchronize u-joints" reference. There I found out that the U-Joint on the final drive is not part of the final drive but just 'stuck' on the spline. I was able to pry it off and the spline shaft running back into the fd was nice and tight as it should be. Slop was in the male/female match up in the spline. Didn't look like a seal was gone. Stupid me, I have kept an eye on the fluid level of the fd since I have owned the bike and it has never dropped. I think the fd seal is fine.

5. The bootie on the back of the transmission was shot. Got a new one.

6. Good to know they all drift to the right a bit.

Some more advice.

I have got down to my clutch and have mic'ed it at .198-.200 (new thickness is .198 - .218). Does it have much life left? I see from the Clymer's manual that they recommend replacement at .177. It is still within new tolerances.

The previous owner took off the ABS and told me he didn't think that the first generation ABS helped that much. He did sell the units though, so perhaps profit was his motive. The ring gears for the ABS are still on the wheels. I tried taking them off, since they have no useful purpose, but the hex bolts are wicked tight and I stripped out 2 heads before I gave up. How do you get those bolts out?

Do you loctite all bolts back in their holes when you reassemble or should torque specs be good enough?

What is the difference between a k100rs4v and k1100rs other than 100 more cc and a bit more torque?


Thanks,

Milton S.
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnb wrote:
I'd recommend installing gaitors on your forks unless you like replacing seals.


MNB,

I don't like the look of fork gaters but I hate having my bike laid up for repairs and shelling out money for parts; so I am going to take your advice and put gaitors on the forks. Looked in 3 different auto part stores for the Rancho 1952s but none of them had them. Will order them online.

Thanks,

Milton S.
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lrome48
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 364
Location: Northridge, SFV,Southern California

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also go with OEM BMW gaiters. I use the R80GS 11 rib gaiters. I'll round up the part number for you. I chose the BMW gaiter over the rancho because they are heavier gage, and are not tapered. The Ranchos sag over time, the OEM don't.I just think they look better. IMHO

I got them from Max BMW, and used the OEM Stainless clamps. Some like to use black plastic ties. Both work, matter of taste. The gaiters do prolong the life of the seals, without a doubt and are a worthy investment either way.



Larry
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Larry
K75
97 K1100 LT Specialk under construction
87 SpecialK75 Carols done!
2004 K12 Special the 'Beast' delivered
K1100 Standard Custom Gone but not forgotten
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Milton wrote:
What is the difference between a k100rs4v and k1100rs other than 100 more cc and a bit more torque?


Forks
Bar ends
Handlebars
Peg plates
Peg plate mounts
94 and later K11s have ABS II
Frame
Tank
Tail cowl
Lower fairing and belly pan
Transmission casing
Catalytic converter
Motronic
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't this the greatest K Site EVAR!!!! Cool

I love reading answers to questions I have yet to think to ask! Very Happy

Welcome newcomer! Wink
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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tmarshall57
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 07 May 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Tottington, Bury, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Milton wrote:


Do you loctite all bolts back in their holes when you reassemble or should torque specs be good enough?



Some screws/bolts are loctited in using Loctite 2701 or 271. This certainly applies to the pivot pins on the final drive and (I think) the hex screws holding the rear disk on. THis type of loctite is designed for permanent fixing of studs and bearing and is difficult to shift without applying heat to the area.

Certainly not all screws and bolts are treated in this way. The manual should be of assistance here.
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
sn't this the greatest K Site EVAR!!!! Cool

I love reading answers to questions I have yet to think to ask! Very Happy


Yes it is, thank you Ted!
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoganai wrote:
Isn't this the greatest K Site EVAR!!!! Cool

I love reading answers to questions I have yet to think to ask! Very Happy

Welcome newcomer! Wink


Thanks for the welcome. Is it Ted or Gwen or Shoganai. I have been enjoying the "Shop Whore Gets Naked" series!

Just so you don't think I'm pulling your legs here she is.

Ain't she purty. Also in the middle of an extensive home remodel.


Spent too much time on the Southern California coast and picked up some type of STD! Bloody wicked trying to get it off the alignment pin.


This is what she looked like before I went postal on her.


Just ordered a bunch of parts from the local friendly BMW dealer for $347. Compared them with Chicago BMW and could have saved about $70 from them but I like to keep my money in my community (just for those who like to save); they are a good group of people there.
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lrome48 wrote:
You can also go with OEM BMW gaiters. I use the R80GS 11 rib gaiters.

I got them from Max BMW, and used the OEM Stainless clamps. Some like to use black plastic ties.



Irome48

Thanks for the heads up on the OEM gaiters. I like the way they look on your bike with the stainless clamp. Sets them off nicely.

Milton S.
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BobZ(IL)
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 651
Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't like the look of gaitors just keep your fork tubes sprayed with WD40 or equivalent. Don't let bugs and crap harden on the tubes and your seals should last for a long, long time.
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'78 R100S
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bike looks fantastic pre-teardown.

Couple questions:

1. What shock? Works?
2. The bars look really high? Barbacks I assume?

Keep us posted! I love it when someone new gets the bug.
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Thanks for the welcome. Is it Ted or Gwen or Shoganai. I have been enjoying the "Shop Whore Gets Naked" series!


Ted is our fearless leader and sponsor of this site. Without him this isn't happening. Gwen or Shogs is our only female member (sorry to point that out again, Gwen) and a fine addition to our group. Wink
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mystic Red wrote:
Gwen or Shogs is our only female member (sorry to point that out again, Gwen) and a fine addition to our group. Wink


Embarassed

Thank you. Smile
_________________
1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak

The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT


Nana korobi ya oki
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the grid wrote:
That bike looks fantastic pre-teardown.

Couple questions:

1. What shock? Works?
2. The bars look really high? Barbacks I assume?

Keep us posted! I love it when someone new gets the bug.


1. Yes it is a Works shock.

2. Bar off of an LT. I have the original RS bar which I am going to put back on. I am hoping it won't cause me undue stress on the wrists and elbows.
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Klinker
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 876
Location: SD I-90

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shoganai wrote:
Isn't this the greatest K Site EVAR!!!!

No doubt.

I'd guess there are fewer than twenty people on this earth that would know this:

Flying Duck wrote:
Milton wrote:
What is the difference between a k100rs4v and k1100rs other than 100 more cc and a bit more torque?

Forks
Bar ends
Handlebars
Peg plates
Peg plate mounts
94 and later K11s have ABS II
Frame
Tank
Tail cowl
Lower fairing and belly pan
Transmission casing
Catalytic converter
Motronic

Amazing.
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tlp
1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
- Page Griffin
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well Drake is like the Chuck Norris of K11s.

He's made up of spare parts and ABS brains.
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2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
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Milton
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Arvada, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For who ever is interested here are a couple of photos of the finished product after a 90 mile test drive. Took awhile but she is finally back together and running fine. Have a few electrical issues, probably plugged into the wrong connectors. Made my own manometer to sync the throttle bodies and it worked quite well. Much smoother engine and accelerates so nicely now.

Put new rubber on her, Pilot Road 2's, and man are they better than the Pilot Roads that came with the bike.

I am glad it is back together and in riding shape.



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Jethro Tull: Thick as a Brick!

1992 K100RS 48K. Dead for now.
1998 Triumph Tiger 43K->56K. Doin it in the dirt.
1978 Honda CB400T 32.5K. For my boys.

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