K11 Owners Group

[Adrian]

Right Guys & Girls,

What is acceptable movement in the handle bars on an LT?

Using the key barrel as a benchmark, I have about 8mm of movement between pushing and pulling the bars hard at the barrel. The reason for the question is that last year during the annual inspection (MOT test) this came up as an advisory notice, not a fail, but 'do something about it' note.

I don't know what a health LT should be, any clues. The movement has never bothered me and I have tried the smaller washers to increase stiffness thing, maybe I didn't use the right size.

Cheers

Adrian
_________________
Adrian in Somerset, UK
K1100LT SE
145,000 miles and counting

https://sites.google.com/site/worlestone/

[RAL88]

There are dampening bushings where the handlebars attach to the tree that help reduce vibration to your hands. I used the following method to stiffen mine and I get more feel for the road and I don't notice any vibration issues. This came off of the IBMWR sight a while ago.

Rich

How to make K-1100 Handlebars Almost Rigid
By: Bruce Keahey
June 1998
The rubber-mounted bars on my K1100RS (converted to "C" bars) just don't cut it for me. This modification just stiffens them up so that they are *almost* rigid, enough so that they might as well be. Can you say "K1100" and "flickability" in the same breath? Actually, the bars remain rubber-mounted and there is still just a little flex, but handling is greatly improved. So for all practical purposes, they might as well be rigid. With this modification, there is slightly more vibration in the grip, but in the few miles I've ridden with it so far, it's not objectionable, but it's too soon to be sure. Vibration will probably vary with the state of engine tune and accumulated mileage. The modification is completely reversible if you don't like the result. But you probably will.
What we're gonna do is use some bronze thrust washers to compress the original rubber pieces into a smaller space than before and allow them much less room to flex as the bars torque due to rider input and cornering forces.
In the nuts and bolts section of your favorite hardware store, get 2 bronze thrust washers, 1" O.D x 5/8" I.D. X 1/8" (approx.) thick. That's all you need. Using thrust washers is neat because they're bronze, so they won't corrode, and you can specify both the O.D. and the I.D. A 9/16" I.D. *might* work, although the hole might be too small, as discussed below; I didn't disassemble things enough to make sure, and the larger hole is not detrimental. If you'd *like* to have a little flex, just use thinner washers. Or if you can't get the specified thickness, you can stack up thinner washers. My cost was 2.38 plus tax for the recommended size. Now to the actual conversion. Five steps, as follows:
1. Remove the black plastic nut covers from the handlebar mounting nuts on the bottom of the upper triple clamp, if they haven't already fallen off and gotten lost.
2. Remove the handlebar mounting nuts that the nut covers cover, and the big, thick round washer above them, between the nut and the rubber. Disassembly stops here.
3. Place one of the thrust washers on the handlebar attachment stud, from the bottom, up against the rubber. Replace the big, thick, original washer and the original nut, finger tight.
4. While holding the thrust washer so that it's centered, snug up on the nut. There is a sleeve in the rubber piece through which the handlebar mounting stud passes. This sleeve must to pass through the hole in the thrust washer you've added, and bottom out against the original washer as you tighten the nut. When everything lines up, tighten the nut until you feel the sleeve bottom out against the original washer. Tighten further depending on how comfortable you are at avoiding stripped threads.
5. Now do for other side. Replace nut covers. Go for a ride. Grin real big.
_________________
Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
*************
'96' K1100LT-SE
'97' R850GS-R

[Off the grid]

^^ Aye that mod while a bit on the time-consuming side (30min-1hr) is cheap and has a dramatic effect on the stiffness of the handlebar.

Strangely enough it does not increase vibrations much, at least with me.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"

[Flying Duck]

30 min to 1 hour? More like 5 minutes. That's how long it took me on my LT.

I did my LT with two stainless washers at the bottom of each clamp. My bars are pretty darned solid now. I haven't noticed any increase in vibration.

The key is to get washers with an outside diameter that fits inside the hole in the fork tree and an inner diameter that the bottom of the handlebar clamp can fit through.

If your bike has lived in a salty environment, it might be a good idea to pull the clamps and inspect their rods. My RS, though it doesn't have rust elsewhere, lived in Malibu before I owned it and the rods and the metal linings of the rubber bushings were rusty and loose. I replaced the clamps and rubbers with some from my K1100RS parts bike.



I used a quarter inch ratchet extension and Vice Grips to pull the old rubber bushings.



Here's the washers I used on the RS:


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Ady, I stiffened mine by replacing the rubbers (Not the American meaning) on the fingers that point forwards, fitted to My K11 but not shown in the pictures that Duck posted, with 3/4" long pieces of plastic garden hose. I also removed the plate on the front of the top yoke & tweaked the tines to be a snug fit on the hose (Once again, Not the American meaning). Said tines are not strong enough to withstand any or all of the following :-
Tying the bike down using the handlebars, pulling the bike onto the centre stand using the handlebars, wheelies, etc.
I have a strengthening mod for the plate, which I did 2 years ago & seems to have been worthwhile, but due to not having an image site, cannot post it here. All interested may PM me for a jpeg showing the improvements which cost me £5 in welding fees.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[Off the grid]

[Glawseagle]

I know this may a be a stupid question, (as I have only had my K1100LT a week), but do you have to take the tank off in order to do this modification?

[Off the grid]

[Glawseagle]

Thanks for the advice.

Just want to say what a cracking bike this K1100LT is.
I have had loads of bikes, ...... Busa, ZX-12R, Mille's ..... and this is right up there.
Wish I'd bought one years ago.

Looking forward to gleaning all sorts of advice/tips from the forum too.

Cheers

[Adrian]

Welcome. I'm not far from you and there's another K1100LT rider about, Phil, in Bristol.

I didn't complete this mod just yet as the bike passed it's MOT

Adrian
_________________
Adrian in Somerset, UK
K1100LT SE
145,000 miles and counting

https://sites.google.com/site/worlestone/

[mnb]

I found some aluminum bushings to replace the rubber ones (on ibmwr). They looked slightly used, but work great. I didn't install them personally, I tossed em to the mechanic to add to his list since I had the bike in for a bunch of stuff already. But there is zero play now. The bars do vibrate slightly at idle now whereas they did not before. But I also ride a Harley, so that's nothing in comparison...
_________________
M N B
1997 BMW K1100LT ABS Special Edition
2003 Husqvarna TE610e
2007 Harley Davidson Road King
2009 BMW F800GS
2011 Husqvarna TE310
2014 Ducati Multistrada Pikes Peak MNB Edition

[tlindell]

Thanks RAL88. Your solution did not make sense to me, but as a new owner I defaulted to your wisdom. The fix cost $3 and took me about 20 minutes. My bars used to move so much they allowed the brake line fitting to scratch my tank. Now they are perfect. Thanks!
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Tim L
1994 K1100LT
2002 HD Electra Glide Classic

[Technician]

Well the official line from the MOT manual is: excessive movement is a reason for failure, but this means movement to the extent that the bars feel like they may come away otherwise worded as " Likely to become detached " this phrase is very popular amongst the MOT manuals and relates to a lot of circumstances that we would think could result in failure or penalty notice but in fact only warrant and advisory notice.
Follow the mods if you choose or just replace the rubber bushes and sleeves but unless your bars are likely to be pulled off in your hands with reasonable force then advice is all they can give. Most MOT centres will back down if you argue the point wiht confidence and the statement "ok give me an appeal form then" because it brings the spotlight down on them.
_________________
Fat Ba***d with a K1100LTse
Squire D18 trailer
Garmin Zumo 660
"Run it round the block to see if the wheels fall off!!!!"

[supercat1]

sorry to dredge up an old topic, but i figured better than posting a new thread about the same thing.

does anyone know somewhere other than bmw that might have the clamps? my brother needs to replace one as it seems to have slightly stripped (as in fully) threads at the top end. so it isn't possible to tighten down and remove the play from the handle bars.

also, is there something else to put in there instead of the rubber "suspension" parts? my brother wants to put something else in there to reduce the play. suggestions?
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(formerly) 1993 k1100rs

[SugarHillCTD]

supercat,

All the posts on this thread relate to LTs. I did the handlebar stiffening mod to my RS last year (very easy to do- 4 bolts total) and it made the RS feel more precise- even with the stubby bars.

I may have missed it, but what does your brother ride? Lemme' know.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[Stoked Steve]

Ebay has several sets of "risers" on there now, should be about $25 or so a set.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[supercat1]

he just got an brand spanking new 93 k11rs. the bars have an unbelieveable amount of play in them. Mine do not. However when he tried to do the fix on his bike with the washers he said the right hand side's clamp stripped a bit. So he removed the washers and is back to square one. So we are looking at least for one clamp bottom and an alternative solution. It could be that his bushings are just too worn and need to be replaced. The po did have bar risers on it which would put more leverage on the bushings and potentially wear them.

thoughts on where to get some clamps? Checked all the usual spots but the are not cheap ($80 per each bottom) and the bushings are $18 each.
_________________
(formerly) 1993 k1100rs

[Flying Duck]

I stiffened up both my RS and LT with the washer approach and both are pretty close to rock solid now.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Stoked Steve]

Here, but these are for the LT.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-K1100LT-K1100-1100-LT-HANDLEBAR-RISERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e58b8a5c2QQitemZ130337514946QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Or here;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-K1100LT-K1100-1100-RISERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563b1934fbQQitemZ370358695163QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Both buy it now for $9.95.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

[RJTrucker]

I had snapped one of mine last year when I tried to tighten it up. Someone on here was nice enough to send me a replacements at no charge. I still have one of those left and I belive I also have a set for the RS as well. So if you need the clamp I am glap to pay it foward and help the same way someone helped me. I do not have new rubbers but I do have the riser and clamp. I have a few old rubbers I am sure if needed. Supercat gets first crack at them since he made the request. Then the others are fair game to who ever needs them.

Ron
(732) 742-6007
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Ron
1993 K11LT
1985 K100RS with over 100K on it
1985 K100RS Luftmiester Turbo Work in progress (any help is appreciated)
1974 R90/6