K11 Owners Group

jklnhyde · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:23 pm Post subject: Serious electrical issue

Today I was wiring an accessory power outlet (the one above the coils) and I inadvertently created a spark. I checked all the fuses, circuits and everythig checked OK; except the brake lights.
I checked and rechecked--bulb OK, fuses OK, no melted parts, etc.
I cannot get the brake light to come on at all! I also removed the BMU (61-13-1469 003) and shorted connectors as per Flying Duck's post, but no brake light still.
BTW, the wires I used to activate the power socket were two that came out from under the wiring box. They were alone and had been cut at some point and had no connector. One was brown and the other I forget, but it was live.

What the hell did I do?!?!?

rydor · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:36 pm Post subject:

Try replacing the fuse, they don't always look burnt.

jklnhyde · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:05 pm Post subject:

The first fuse in the row (F1) is not getting power at all. All others check out.

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:07 pm Post subject:

(It's helpful if you put the year and model of your bike in your signature. It's helps us help you.)

A few things:

1) Unless you plan to be very careful, it's generally a good idea to disconnect the battery before doing such things. (I never do but this is a do as I say, not as I do type of deal.) IF you have an LT then make sure you have the radio code handy when you reconnect.

2) It's really not advisable to tap into a wire just because it's hot. Especially if you're powering the Powerlet socket as heated gear pulls a few amps so it's important to know where the power is coming from, what fuse it's going through (if any) and that the wiring gauge is adequate for the power draw.

End of lecture/

Where to go from here:

Using a wiring diagram, figure out what the heck wire you tappedi nto and then shorted out and how it has caused the #1 fuse to cease having power.

From your description it's really hard to tell exactly what you did. Not having power to the #1 fuse is not good but it's probably not the end of the world either. You do know that the #1 is switched (only on when bike is on), right?

When you do hook up the power outlet, make sure you understand where it's power is coming from and where it's fused. IF it doesn't have a fuse in the circuit then add one.

My personal reccomendation would be to wire the power socket directly to the battery (with an adequate in-line fuse.) That way you can use it for battery charging and you also have a simple curcuit that is easy to understand and install.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Daniël V · Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:32 am Post subject:

put the sidestand up.

(hey, you never know, it may be thst simple..)

jklnhyde · Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 9:23 am Post subject:

OK, heres what I got so far:

The F1 fuse had voltage when switched, but now there's no voltage at all.
The brake lights were working while on the centerstand, now they are not working at all.
Even after rewiring the BMU socket to simulate LED's being installed, still no brake lights.
The two loose wires I tapped into were, and are still live at this time.

When I first found these wires, I did a preliminary check with the wiring diagram. I'm sure they were ID'd as alarm wires, although not 100% sure. I'll be diving in again in a few hours to confirm. The outlet I energized will be rarely used, and if so, will not be for high-draw electrics.
What I'm having a hard time coping with is that a circuit at the fuse box has lost all voltage input. That's hard to occur unless a connector or wire flowing voltage to the fuse box from the voltage source has come undone/melted/etc.
I'd rather believe that a fuse or fusible link within that particular circuit blew, but are there any fusible links in the system?
Am I violating a BMW-law that states the bike must be in forward motion before the brake light system energizes?!
I know the [ ! ] bulb on the cluster is no longer flashing (BMU malfunction, maybe??), so what does that clue point to?

It's just odd that there is no voltage at that fuse box point coming in or flowing out...

R

Flying Duck · Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:10 am Post subject:

Just checking the obvious: Is your kill switch engaged? (F1 has no power when the kill switch is engaged.)

There are no fusable links on our bikes.

Brakes and other lights are not dependent upon the bike being in motion.

What year and model is your bike?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

jklnhyde · Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject:

Well, mystery solved. The fuse I had was burned, but it was just barely separated at one of the corners, not in the center as most fuses do. That, coupled with the fact the 'kill switch' must be in the RUN position to give the taillight voltage, gave me the worst headache in while. Thanks to flying Duck for the enlightenment...
On the road again!
R