K11 Owners Group

[Glawseagle]

Hi, I hope you boys can help.

I have had my 1998 K1100LT for 6 months. Its in good nick, been serviced regularly.

In that time I have had 3 clutch cables snap, and 3 of the 4 cables that I have had fitted have been extremely stiff. Not un-useable, but bloody hard work to use. The one “good” one was a pleasure to use … a real smooth operation.

Every time it has broken right close to the nipple at the top end.

We are sure the routeing of the cables have been correct but still the cables are really stiff.

The BMW part number of the current clutch cable, a stiff one is:

32 73 2 324 960

Can anybody shed any light on:

a) Why the cables break so frequently, and
b) Why most of the cables are so stiff?

Are there two different type of cables?

Thanks in advance for your help
_________________
"Lovely stuff" ...Not my words Michael... the words of Shakin' Stevens.

[Scott_Anderson]

I suppose the 1st question would be "where is the cable breaking at". Up at the lever end or down below at the actuator arm, or somewhere inbetween..

You are not supposed to lubricate the cable itself, as that will cause the internal lining to swell and really be hard to operate. But you do need some lubrication at both ends and on the actuator arm pivot points down below.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Glawseagle]

Every time it has broken right close to the nipple at the top end.
_________________
"Lovely stuff" ...Not my words Michael... the words of Shakin' Stevens.

[joeangi]

I would pull out my clutch lever and see if there is a "burr" that is cutting the cable. This will also give you the opportunity to lube up the clutch lever. I use a little of moly grease on the nipple, and have had no problems. I would trace the cable down to the tranny and check the lever to see if it pulls smooth. I would also put a little grease on the nipple down on the clutch lever.

Joe

[Adrian]

Also check the routing of the cable. I found that just wiggling/moving the cable a CM or so made a big difference to the smoothnest of the 'pull', an amazing difference with just a little adjustment. I think it may have had something to do with the position of the 'outer' protective cover the cable as it went under the tank.

Worth a wiggle!

Adrian
_________________
Adrian in Somerset, UK
K1100LT SE
145,000 miles and counting

https://sites.google.com/site/worlestone/

[kstones]

hi Glasweagle;
seems odd that new cables are stiff to use; they shouldn't be. try actuating the clutch lever on the gearbox to confirm it is smooth; it will be quite an effort to move but should be smooth. the fulcrum spindle bearings could be badly rusted up but that is not too likely; you will know if it's a hell of a job to move the lever down below. But you should definitely use the genuine BMW cable though; they have a much better design at the handlebar lever end where the other ones (though not cheaper) ones will fail. the BMW one has a far longer adherence length for soldering/brazing the lever connection bobble to the cable; the other has just a round bit of brass with a hole through it and this is a shorter sodering connection. The cable route is not good right at the bars but we all have that and the action is still smooth, but even so should work ok. if you can change the cable you must be getting them out and in without going round any impossible bends so the route must be ok. The clutch lever action should not be hard; it should be fairly easy actually, but firm and smooth.
Good luck
Tony.

[Phil Marvin]

Hi, Glawseagle.
You reported your cables are breaking at the lever end. Usually this is caused by lack of grease at the nipple. If using a genuine BMW cable, the cable should NOT be lubricated. It already has an internal coating and the addition of any oil deteriorates this coating and adds grit to quicken the demise. That said, every time you pull the lever, the nipple should turn in the housing (lever). Look closely. If it isn't (probable), make sure there is grease around the nipple. If the nipple is greased and the cables still break, you may need a new lever, as the old one may be worn enough to distort the cable and prevent the nipple from turning, thus exposing heavy stresses to the cable strands very near the cable end. This never happened to me in 124k miles (on one K1100LT), but I made sure, every few thousand miles, the nipple was greased and turned as the lever was pulled. I hope this helps.
Ride Safe,
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

[Tim (Midland Section)]

I seem to remember reading something about this one one of the fora to which I subscribe. Basically, the lever & the nipple both wear unevenly, causing the nipple to jam, even when greased, which as Phil says, causes the cable to bend, metal fatigue does the rest. In your case sir, I, like Phil, would earnestly consider changing cable & lever together. As far as replacement is concerned, the cable route should be so as to keep the cable as straight as possible, therefore reducing friction to a minimum. I have previously, managed to change one by taping old to new & pulling gently. It is also a good idea to lubricate the release lever periodically, as they have been known to seize.
This is my third K11, & in 30K total miles never had a cable snap. Perhaps some pictures of the lever & nipple would help our diagnosis.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485