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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:33 pm Post subject: 3 Core radiator install |
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The K1100RS with a K1200LT engine I bought overheated on me in stop and go traffic and high heat in Denver. I wasn't sure if it was the old anemic fan, sticky thermostat or bad radiator cap seals but figured since I was going to have to remove the radiator to replace the fan that I might as well intall one of the 3 core radiators I've got.
Like Gary B has noted, the left fan mount wasn't going to work with the head coolant output so I just cut the mother off. Since the bike has a K1200LT airbox I didn't have to mess with the fan motor housing.
All in all, pretty simple and straightforward.
Interestingly, the fuel tank had NO insulation and didn't look like any had ever been there. I'm putting a Johnny Blanket on it tomorrow morning. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Last edited by Flying Duck on Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:06 am; edited 3 times in total |
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wera32 Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Apr 2003 Posts: 427 Location: Charlotte, North Carolina USA
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:14 am Post subject: |
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OOPs, sorry I forgot to tell you that the rocker switch on the left turns on the fan. In traffic I'd turn it on before the temp got way up. _________________ Paul - '93 K11/12RS (sold), 2002 R1100S BCP and '03 RC51 KOG 29 |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 8:24 am Post subject: |
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I actually replaced your fan switch with one of my my own when I stopped at rkildu's place in Arkansas. The one I put in grounds the fan relay like the Motronic instead of powering the fan like you had it. Just a different approach to the same issue. When in Denver traffic I was looking for a Radio Shack so I wasn't really paying attention to the gauges.
From the sound of it I think that the fan was getting old and tired after 100k+ miles and not getting full revs which is why I decided to replace it. I think that with the 3 core radiator and new fan that all will now be well in the heat management arena. The bike performed fine on the ride home aside from that one instance of overheating. (Got it up to a buck twenty a few times in Wyoming. )
FYI, the fuel gauge issue did turn out to be a flaky fuel level sender which I corrected yesterday by replacing the fuel level sender.
BTW, what's the little bottle hanging off of the air box that collects oil? I assume it replaces that sponge collector thingy and is supposed to be emptied occasionally, right?
Aside from the fact that you're a typical eBay seller who sold me an overheating lemon (just kidding) the bike seems to run quite well and I had a GREAT ride home. I'm somewhat amazed that even after another 3,700 miles that Pilot Road front tire still has quite a bit a of tread left. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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wera32 Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 05 Apr 2003 Posts: 427 Location: Charlotte, North Carolina USA
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:12 am Post subject: |
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As you know, on the 1100 the air box oil separator drains into the cam chain cover. On the 1200 engine, there is no provision for this. If I were to do it again I would put the drain in the cam chain cover of the 1200. Since I didn't and it would be a hassle to do without pulling the cover, my temporary solution was to add a catch bottle. That is an 1100 air box. _________________ Paul - '93 K11/12RS (sold), 2002 R1100S BCP and '03 RC51 KOG 29 |
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hockeyshifter Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 01 Jan 2006 Posts: 177 Location: harpers ferry WVa.
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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the best solution to the overheating of the Brick is to install an oil / air cooler.
oil cooling is the best a heat transfer because the oil is in direct contact with the block and other moving parts.
the problem is with the bike ; the design; it can not be done _________________ fix the problem not the blame ; fix what is messed up ; NO one is to blame. |
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acftfliehr Big Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 12:58 am Post subject: |
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Radiators? Cooling issues? Fans? My favorite topic....
I am still working with numerous radiator shops that advertise "custom" radiator builds, with absolutely no response via e-mails.
I live in the Bay area, and the one and only shop on the east bay that actually repairs radiators and has been in business for eons, says that all the others have closed due to owners passing away from the dreaded A.G.E. virus, and thus their permits have expired.
New permits for this type of environmental behavior is strictly prohibited as some say increases the risk of A.G.E.
Anyone out there have any connections? I believe a unit can be designed for the entire line of K100, K75 and K1100's that can fit in all the bikes and sell for $700 to $800 and will sell instead of the peice of #@!? stock units offered. |
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sdaniel Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 15 Jun 2009 Posts: 156 Location: Little Elm, TX
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Moondog Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 09 Oct 2004 Posts: 670 Location: Richmond Hill, Georgia
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Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:45 am Post subject: |
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I just put a 3-core in my 1996 K1100 and it knocked 15-20 degrees of the running temps. Next I want to try the manual fan switch..after I find a job. _________________ "Badges? We don't need no stinking badges"!
I like the social aspect of riding. Rally's, socializing, drinking beer, fartin' and carrying on.
2004 R1150RS
1996 K1100RS (moved on to new home) |
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michaelcurrin Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2003 Posts: 329 Location: eastern NC
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Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:39 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | the best solution to the overheating of the Brick is to install an oil / air cooler.
oil cooling is the best a heat transfer because the oil is in direct contact with the block and other moving parts.
the problem is with the bike ; the design; it can not be done
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I've been wondering if it could be done by swapping out the oil / water pump from a K1200?
I did the 3 core upgrade when I had the sidecar off the bike a couple years ago and it does help.
Also, my fan stopped working, it barely turns if you push it, so I'm installing a low profile fan, which has turned out to be a real pain, since some of the sidecar mounts run in front of the radiator, so the radiator can not be removed with out removing the sidecar. I have managed to get the old fan out by removng the air box and have the new fan in, just have to replace all the other stuff and have a few while I'm there projects to finish. _________________ Mike Currin
20 BMW R1250RS
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
06 Ducati ST3
67 Triumph 650 chopper |
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acftfliehr Big Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:42 am Post subject: |
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What kind of fan did you buy and is it available on line?
And if you could provide a pic or two of the install would be appreciated. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl

Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10102 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:54 am Post subject: |
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| Moondog wrote: | | I just put a 3-core in my 1996 K1100 and it knocked 15-20 degrees of the running temps. Next I want to try the manual fan switch..after I find a job. |
This does not make sense to me. The thermostat is what controls the running temp, not the thickness of the radiator. The K1100RS I put a 3 core in runs at the same temps it did before. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin

Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4238 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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I would also like to cool things down for next summer.
I have located a small power steering cooler that I want to plumb into the fuel tank return line (with proper braided stainless lines). The friggin' tank gets really warm even a short time after filling up and just gets worse as the miles go on.
I am also wondering about mounting a small "secondary" pusher fan in front of the radiator. The front wheel/fender/fork legs do block some wind flow.
Spending less than $200 total for both of the above projects would be worth it if it cooled down the furnace. _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3124 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | Moondog wrote: | | I just put a 3-core in my 1996 K1100 and it knocked 15-20 degrees of the running temps. Next I want to try the manual fan switch..after I find a job. |
This does not make sense to me. The thermostat is what controls the running temp, not the thickness of the radiator. The K1100RS I put a 3 core in runs at the same temps it did before. |
It's possible that his t-stat could be sticking partially open which would allow this temp drop. _________________ Ride safe.
1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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michaelcurrin Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2003 Posts: 329 Location: eastern NC
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:52 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | This does not make sense to me. The thermostat is what controls the running temp, not the thickness of the radiator. The K1100RS I put a 3 core in runs at the same temps it did before.
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Just my opinion, and you know what they say,,,,,,
In my case, with the sidecar and some occasional "spirited" riding in warm temperatures (eastern NC) the engine ran considerably hotter than the temperature that the thermostat kicks in. The extra size of the three core provides more heat exchange area to bring down the temperature, but if everything is working right the temp should not go below the thermostat temperature.
So on my rig it made a noticable difference in how often the temp needle hit the red zone on the gauge.
I have also recently (after the original fan seized up) added an aftermarket thin fan along with an adjustable fan switch. The fan now kicks in a little sooner and the temp gauge has not hit the red yet, but it hasn't really been torture tested yet either.
Mike _________________ Mike Currin
20 BMW R1250RS
93 BMW K1100RS / EML Speed 2000
06 Ducati ST3
67 Triumph 650 chopper |
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acftfliehr Big Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 62
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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I have removed the thermostat on my previous installs on the K100 and the K1100 (both RT's) and had the temp climb to just below the red zone when the temp in CA was in the 100's climbing grades and going at freeway speeds.
The temps were always higher than the 3 core.
Obviously with this situation with the thermo stat removed, caused longer warm ups and is not good for the engine in the long term, I did this just to put the thermostat out of the equation of the issue.
I had a Mazda 323 years ago with a manual trans with the same issue, Installation of the larger auto trans radiator fixed the situation! |
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