K11 Owners Group Forum Index K11 Owners Group
K11 Owners Group
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Bent handlebar

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    K11 Owners Group Forum Index -> Tech
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Bent handlebar Reply with quote

Something has always been off on my LT. I knew that the PO had dropped it on the RH side because the fairing is cracked. I always figured that the fairing bracket was bent. Not the case. The RH side of the handle bar is bent back about 1 1/4". Best I can tell anyway using wood butchery instruments.

Has anyone ever tried to straighten out a bent baron the bike? I am a little concerned to just go after it with brute strength and awkwardness. If I have to go to the trouble to remove the bar, I will just put a new one on.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given how they're mounted I wouldn't try it on the bike. I think it would take quite a bit of force to bend the bars back. I think there might be a risk of either tweaking the triple tree alignment or maybe messing up the handlebar mounts.

I've got a set of used LT bars if you're interested.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jim
Site Admin


Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's probably a minor PITA to take the bar off - but if you don't mind doing that, you should be able to get it put right at your local straightener.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slight detour (not quite a hijack) but the thread reminded me of this...

Anyone remember when Freddie Spencer was still racing Superbikes in the US before going to Europe for 250/500cc racing? His mechanics noted that on multiple occasions his handlebars would be bent after races- without crashing. Shocked
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the LT handlebars steel or aluminum?

If they are steel they are heavy and should be replaced....bars are cheap 40$ or so, plus you can get a set that is swept back further/wider.

If they are aluminum I wouldn't bend them back due to fatiuge rates.
_________________
Bane of your existence since July 2006
2007 Triumph Tiger ABS. "Sabertooth"
2009 Husqvarna TE610. "The dirty Italian mistress"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're steel.

When removing/swapping handlebars on a K bike, I prefer to do it without disconnecting the brake line and having to bleed the brakes when you put things back together. This can be accomplished by disconnecting the choke and throttle cables and removing the left perch first. Then you can remove the handlebars out of the left perch without having to disconnect the brake line.

Also note that you can keep the clutch depressed to leave slack in the clutch cable by pulling in the clutch and placing a block of wood between the clutch arm and exhaust. Makes dealing with the clutch cable much easier.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like a simple project will turn into a real PITA. Think I will wait for the snow to fly. Can you get the heated grips off and back on without buggering them up? I will probably try to straighten my bar. Chicago BMW wants $135 - discount for a new one. Think I will visit Duck's and see what he has.
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "Right" way is to use a needle to get the terminals out of the four lead connector under the tank.

The more common way is to pull some slack out, cut the wires and then resolder when you put the handlebars back on.

Be careful with the heated grips. If you break the connection where the wires meet the heating elements then you're screwed because you can't resolder them to the heating elements because solder doesn't stick to that metal.

Use a vacuum and a piece of string to pull the wires back through.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    K11 Owners Group Forum Index -> Tech All times are GMT - 4 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group