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rear / final drive seal leak MAYBE..

 
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hockeyshifter
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Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 177
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 3:24 pm    Post subject: rear / final drive seal leak MAYBE.. Reply with quote

I have searched but the results are not showing up..
k1100rs 1993 40k miles.. a small leak has developed at the final / rear drive housing.
the leak is only happing when i drive into work; noon temps.. but on the return home at nite leak is gone. i pulled the vent cap to check if its clogged no dice .. the leak is small and appears to be weeping outta threads of the drain bolt.
is this prelude to a seal failure and were is the seal located and how hard is the job. ??? dose this seal fail frequently..

thanks for any all resonses..
...Shifter
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Ted
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Joined: 03 Apr 2003
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Location: Further

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you re-use the crush washer last time you changed the final drive fluid? Similar thing happened to me on my K75S, a new crush washer fixed it.
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Klinker
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Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: SD I-90

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: rear / final drive seal leak MAYBE.. Reply with quote

hockeyshifter wrote:
.. the leak is small and appears to be weeping outta threads of the drain bolt.
is this prelude to a seal failure and were is the seal located and how hard is the job. ??? dose this seal fail frequently..

Mine has failed twice - the first time at about 45K miles which shredded the FD, and again 20K after rebuild. The second failure may have simply been the FD innards vs. the seal. I was also uncertain as to the source of the leak as well the first time (was small and appeared to come from near the drain).

As the whole works went before I attempted to replace the seal, I'm not certain how difficult the job is. I can't imagine it would be too tough though and I don't believe it requires any special tools.

I haven't heard of frequent seal failures, but I would recommend replacing yours to see if that stops the leak...before things get worse.
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1994 K1100RS

Only the Reasonists. They believe in an evidence-based world, something called Rationalism. But it's a tiny group, not so influential.
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Mystic Red
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Joined: 28 Mar 2005
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Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Did you re-use the crush washer last time you changed the final drive fluid? Similar thing happened to me on my K75S, a new crush washer fixed it.


If it is coming from the drain plug that's what I'd do too! Catastrophic failure is for clutch dumping hot rodders. Very Happy
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hockeyshifter
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Joined: 01 Jan 2006
Posts: 177
Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks to all that responded.. i cleaned the final drive at work with brake cleaner and paper towels... let the unit sit for about 10 hours. checked again and no leaks. took off for the house and stopped at the halfway point ... checked and rubbed a paper towel between the rotor and the housing and got a small spot of gear oil ( smell test) about the size of a pea. (i would say the loss of fluid is only about 1 tea spoon total so far). GOT home ran a shop rag again just brake dust this time .... and then checked the temp of the housing about 105 degrees F.
is it normal for the drive to this hot?
Capital Cycles has a seal ... is it possible to replace the seal with the final drive still in the frame?
Clymer states that the final drive is near BULLET PROOF... is that statement true?
will be replacing the the oil and installing a new crush washer this week end.
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Ted
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Clymer states that the final drive is near BULLET PROOF... is that statement true?


Yes, it is true - failures are exceedingly rare.
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hockeyshifter
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Location: harpers ferry WVa.

PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CONFRIMED.. the seal is leaking... has anyone done a seal replacement with the drive still on the swing arm???
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hfxrzw
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Joined: 30 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't be to difficult. Difficult part is getting the old seal out. You'll have to get some hooks in or screws to pull it out.
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