K11 Owners Group

[ken]

Anyone know what size allen I am supposed to be using to get the mounting screws out?

Thanks

Ken
_________________
Ken in Denver

[Flying Duck]

5mm for the four

3mm for the connector
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Scott_Anderson]

If you are talking about the wire harness from the back of the Inst cluster, I think it's 3mm.
The 4 mounting screws are 5mm
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[ken]

I guess I just have to keep trying. I seem to have had the right size, I can't see them, and I can't really feel them moving.

I will continue to try and just cuss a little more I guess. I have to change the fairing mount, and I think I can get it out without tearing the entire fairing off if I can get the instrument cluster out of the way. Have to change the lamps anyway.

weeeeeee I love fixing the bike. I love fixing the bike. I love fixing the bike
_________________
Ken in Denver

[Flying Duck]

I think your best bet would be to remove the whole fairing. It will be much easier to get things all mounted straight and tightened up that way.

Here's a write-up on removing a K75RT fairing, which, though not identical, is similar and may be of help to you.

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/rt-fairing/k75rt_fairing.shtml
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Scott_Anderson]

At least with the LT you can remove the windscreen assy so it's easier to get the inst pod off. That's how I get to mine when needed.

Like Drake suggested complete fairing removall, though more involved would give easier access to the back if the inst cluster.

I also found it easier to get the right side cluster screws out by unfastening the relay mounting bracket on the right hand side(as sitting on bike) of the fairing bracket.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[ken]

taking the fairing off was definetely the way to do this. It is off, now everything should be easy.

well for now. lol
_________________
Ken in Denver

[miKeinWIs]

Thought I'd some input to this thread as it came up when I searched for instrument cluster removal.

Instead of sitting in the house yesterday to watch wave after wave of snow showers coming across the lake yesterday, I decided to bite the bullet and try to install the LED backlighting bulbs I got from FD a month ago.
Fear of the unknown made me hold off...but it wasn't real bad!
The final result looks awesome!
Some tips learned:
(1)For an LT, Scott is right. Remove the windscreen assembly. I had contemplated this, so took out the 6 screws and unplugged the electrical connector.
(2)I think a ball end hex key wrench is mandatory for the 2 bottom bolts (5mm) cuz you (I) can't get a straight shot at it. Ball end helps for the 3mm electrical conector bolt. Would have been much easier with the hex socket and finger ratchet, but only able to use it for top bolts.
(3) Once I got the back off the module, it took a minute to figure out which bulbs were the backlights. Flipped it over and by eliminating idiot lites it became apparent. Far left and right, Bottom middle for clock, and top left and right next to turn indicator bulbs.
(4) As Drake instructed, carefully hooked it up to test before putting back on--it worked! Buttoned it up, plugged it in--no lites, Oh crap. Tried several times with no luck. Then realized plug wasn't in enough to make contact as it had when back was off. You have to tighten connector screw-we had lights!
(5) Also did the handlebar bushing thing to make them more solid. Very easy. Except trying to keep the bronze bushing in place. So I RTV'ed the bushing to the washer to hold it in place. Snugged up perfectly.

Well, this got a long, but hope it helps someone out. If I need indicator bulbs someday, it won't be quite as intimidating.
Good luck
Mike
_________________
'97 K1100LT
Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles

[Scott_Anderson]

My personal thought on the allen hex keys, stay away from the "ball" end type keys when trying to break them loose.
It's too easy to slip and strip out the heads of the screws.
Stick with a good clean straight allen wrench for breaking the screws loose and tightening them up.
Once they are loose then the "ball" types would be ok.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[miKeinWIs]

Yes, Scott, shoulda said that. Broke loose with the good end but 1/8th turn per try wasn't going to make it--for impatient me. Then went to the ball end.
_________________
'97 K1100LT
Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles

[Flying Duck]

[hfxrzw]

I use one of those little ratchets with an allan key bit, works like a charm in small spaces. Got it in the bike as part of the toolset. With my size of hands (I'm 6'5"/140kgs with hands fitting the frame ) this is a perfect tool to get the allan bolts of the speedo loose or tight.
_________________
Cheers, Rene

Greetings from Florida.

BMW K100 '85