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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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 Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:42 pm Post subject: Footpeg hanger replacement tips, please. |
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When I bought my K-RS, I noticed a scratch, just above the RHS footpeg, which ran right across the hangar plate.
Last Wednesday, I discovered, the hard way that this was, in fact, a crack.
Motorworks have supplied a replacement hanger plate, so now, I just have a couple of questions...
First of all: what size Torx bit do I need (and why the hell have one Torx among a pile of hex bolts)?
Secondly: anyone got any tips, bearing in mind that I can be a bit cack-handed (a combination of clumsy and rough, for the colonials)?
Cheers!
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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IIRC the master cylinder is on that plate. So once you undo the top bolts, it will hang on the brake pipe. Consider also, the brake light switch cable. Can't remember what size Torx, but one in my Halfords set fits. Don't get frightened, it aint rocket science, just take care, work methodically & don't force anything.
When reassembling make sure there is a clearance between brake operating pin & master cylinder piston. It is common to find them over adjusted to lift the pedal, which causes sticking brakes.
HTH.
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Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Tim (Midland Section) wrote: | | It is common to find them over adjusted to lift the pedal, which causes sticking brakes. |
Yup.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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tmarshall57
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 07 May 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Tottington, Bury, Lancs, UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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I think there are four things to consider:
1) As mentioned above the rear brake master cylinder is attached to the hanger. I have not found a way of swapping the hanger without removing the brake line from the master cylinder - and therefore requiring a brake bleed.
2) The brake pedal, spring and bush need to be fitted carefully - the spring tension is quite high
3) When refitting the brake pedal ensure that the pin on the pedal which compresses the master cylinder piston is properly engaged before tightening the pedal retaining bolt. It is possible to distort the piston if the pedal bolt is tightened without the pin properly engaged.
4) As stated above ensure the clearances between piston pin and piston as well as pedal to brake light switch are set properly to avoid brake bind and potential rear end fires (as reported by at least one other)
It looks a simple job at first glance - and it is if the above is taken into account. I've done it twice!!
BTW you can get a really high quality set of hex keys and torx wrenches from Range - they are extremely good value. There is a store on Crompton Way Bolton.
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K1100RS Special Edition 1997
Arctic Silver/Black
Last edited by tmarshall57 on Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| tmarshall57 wrote: | | 1) As mentioned above the rear brake master cylinder is attched to the hanger. I have not found a way of swapping the hanger without removing the brake line from the master cylinder - and therefore requiring a brake bleed. |
I've never had a problem with this. Remove the peg plate and while holding it remove the two little bolts that hold the MC to the peg plate.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | tmarshall57 wrote: | | 1) As mentioned above the rear brake master cylinder is attched to the hanger. I have not found a way of swapping the hanger without removing the brake line from the master cylinder - and therefore requiring a brake bleed. |
I've never had a problem with this. Remove the peg plate and while holding it remove the two little bolts that hold the MC to the peg plate. |
Did it the same as Duck, bit fiddly refitting it but does work.
Make sure you get the lever for the brake light switch in the right place.
Rob
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet  Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten. |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:30 am Post subject: |
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| RobWheatley wrote: | Did it the same as Duck, bit fiddly refitting it but does work.
Make sure you get the lever for the brake light switch in the right place.
Rob |
Thanks for the tips, chaps.
Work will commence soon...
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:15 am Post subject: |
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| frjack wrote: | Thanks for the tips, chaps.
Work will commence soon... |
Right, just tried a couple of things before I start the job properly:
The 2 Allen bolts undo easily - The Torx is a good bit harder - not sure why.
I have hit a problem, though: The 2 bolts securing the pannier rail aren't loosening - whatever they are fastened into is just spinning  - any tips?
Cheers,
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:20 am Post subject: |
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I have hit a problem, though: The 2 bolts securing the pannier rail aren't loosening - whatever they are fastened into is just spinning - any tips?
There should be a nut on the back of that bold. 10MM I think
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: |
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| jpberens1994K1100RS wrote: | I have hit a problem, though: The 2 bolts securing the pannier rail aren't loosening - whatever they are fastened into is just spinning - any tips?
There should be a nut on the back of that bold. 10MM I think |
I thought so, too, but whatever it is appears to be circular, with no evidence of flats, as would be expected on a nut...
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:12 am Post subject: |
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| frjack wrote: | | jpberens1994K1100RS wrote: | I have hit a problem, though: The 2 bolts securing the pannier rail aren't loosening - whatever they are fastened into is just spinning - any tips?
There should be a nut on the back of that bold. 10MM I think |
I thought so, too, but whatever it is appears to be circular, with no evidence of flats, as would be expected on a nut... |
You are quite right - and it can be a pain. If you're lucky, you can get hold of that bit with a long needle nose pliers.
The last time I had that apart, I set it back in there with some kind of glue - seems to be OK so far.
It's a bit of work, but you'll get it
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | | frjack wrote: | | jpberens1994K1100RS wrote: | I have hit a problem, though: The 2 bolts securing the pannier rail aren't loosening - whatever they are fastened into is just spinning - any tips?
There should be a nut on the back of that bold. 10MM I think |
I thought so, too, but whatever it is appears to be circular, with no evidence of flats, as would be expected on a nut... |
You are quite right - and it can be a pain. If you're lucky, you can get hold of that bit with a long needle nose pliers.
The last time I had that apart, I set it back in there with some kind of glue - seems to be OK so far.
It's a bit of work, but you'll get it |
When I get it out, I may actually secure it using a nyloc nut with a few washers to shim the nut out, so I can get a spanner, or socket to it, in future.
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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If you look closely at the nuts, I think you'll find that they are the locking type. I found that a box-end wrench works if you get it tight against the base of the nuts - unless a previous owner has rounded them off.
Don |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Don Sproule wrote: | If you look closely at the nuts, I think you'll find that they are the locking type. I found that a box-end wrench works if you get it tight against the base of the nuts - unless a previous owner has rounded them off.
Don |
Well, sometimes I look at things and wonder... I mean, the "DO NOT TOUCH THESE!!!" screws on the throttle butterflies have been messed with, so little surprises me... 
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Don Sproule wrote: | If you look closely at the nuts, I think you'll find that they are the locking type. I found that a box-end wrench works if you get it tight against the base of the nuts - unless a previous owner has rounded them off.
Don |
They're round from the factory... They were never hex nuts. And they are all but impossible to get to.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Don Sproule
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 May 2006
Posts: 261
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Jim,
I guess I'll have to take a close look at mine next time I get at the bike.
I never had a problem removing mine and I've had to do it a few times in the last few years. Haven't had to undo the brake line yet.
Don |
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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Don Sproule wrote: | Hi Jim,
I guess I'll have to take a close look at mine next time I get at the bike.
I never had a problem removing mine and I've had to do it a few times in the last few years. Haven't had to undo the brake line yet.
Don |
Don - the Z racks for the luggage/panniers - not the footrests... thread drift.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:46 am Post subject: |
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| Jim wrote: | | Don Sproule wrote: | If you look closely at the nuts, I think you'll find that they are the locking type. I found that a box-end wrench works if you get it tight against the base of the nuts - unless a previous owner has rounded them off.
Don |
They're round from the factory... They were never hex nuts. And they are all but impossible to get to. |
Oh, wunderbar! 
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Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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frjack
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 14 Jul 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Leigh, Lancs. UK
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| Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:26 am Post subject: |
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| frjack wrote: | | Oh, wunderbar! |
Well... I've got it off - apart from one of the bolts holding the brake switch to the plate. 
It's probably never been removed, but it looks like it was never lubricated, on assembly. I tried to undo it ( quality tools ) with gentle but firm pressure... and the bit turned in the socket (I put it in carefully and made sure it was seated properly) - BUGGERATION!
Looks like I'm going to be doing some drilling (I'm already going to have to drill, cut, or dremel the bolts on the pannier rack.
Banging a sacrificial torx key into the bolt is not an option, the plate is supported by a bucket, to alleviate stress on the hose and I haven't got the skills to faff about removing brake hoses and bleeding them.
What a bloody awful idea to go fastening anything other than footrests to a footrest hanger plate - especially when the bolts aren't greased on assembly and steel bolts are being screwed into alloy.
God's flaming bogs, BMW!! Were your designers on acid?!?! 
This is getting to be enough to make me sell the bike, once I've fixed it!
_________________
Fr Jack
1993 K1100RS in 690 bloo
(Build date 11/92, first registered 04/93) |
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