K11 Owners Group

[AndyT]

Hi there - this is my first post as thinking hard about buying an 1995 K1100LT SE with nearly 45,ooo miles on the clock. The condition looks okay but it has a few issues such as radio not fully working, some scratches on fairings and panniers, no heated grips and the seat has been recovered and looks awful.

Its quite a way from where I live so I would like a bit of advice on weak spotrs for these bikes and known issues that I can ask the owner about.

Also its for sale at £2800 which seems a bit expensive compared to similar bikes for sale. What do you think is a fair price for a 45k miles LTSE thats in okay condition but not mint condition.

Are these bike reliable as BMW's of late seem to be plagued with problems. Also are spares easy to obtain in the UK???

MAny thanks in advance.

AndyT

[Flying Duck]

No real known issues.

Much more reliable than later models.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Melly Senior]

Hi Andy
I'm not an expert on the bikes but having just purchased one myself i can at least give you a newbie view. Others will offer a more tech viewpoint.

Mine is a 1993 1100RS in good mechanical order but in need of some tlc indeed simple cleaning; the seat on my bike was sound enough but a very dirty white )now cleaned up with houshold cream cleaner and looking quite good. There is a chap called Tony Archer ( www.tonyarcher.co.uk ) in Huddersfield who i've used previously to refurbish a seat and that cost me £45 at the time.

Part of the reason for me buying one of these was to have a less complicated bike that will cost less to run maintain; i sold a newish 1200 GSA and was concerned about longer term ownership costs.

What i have enjoyed so far is the stripping down of the bike to give a deap clean and fix all those minor problems including the odd missing bolt/fixing - all parts are readly available in UK from Motorworks ( www.motorworks.co.uk ) who sell new and second hand bits - if you look at their website you could price up the bits you may need to replace and use that to reduce offer/price.

Advice given to me was to ask about the obvious service intervals but also ask if ABS is working.

I paid £1350 with about 44k however i think mine was a particular bargin - i've seen others including LT's for anything from £1800 to £2500

As long as it's okay engine and electronics i think a bit of work and sorting would get the bike where you wanted as long as the price was right

All the best
Andy

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[m1ks]

It should start easily cold or hot, idle smoothly from cold on the choke, pull smoothly and evenly.
A replacement seat would be expensive, a recover being a better option but do you know how good the foam is underneath if recovered already? a bargaining chip to consider.
Check the battery, if getting to the 'bit duff needing replacement soon' stage, again, they're a hefty bugger of a battery and expensive.
An LT should have heated grips with two temp settings. Repair could be any one of many things, a bargaining chip.

Check the little drip hole under the front of the engine for drips of oil / water showing evidence of seal collapse in the combined water/oil pump unit, (relatively easy to fix, again, expensive if you're a take it to a garage type).

Check the fan cuts in runs smoothly and cuts off when temp guage reaches about 3/4 then cuts off about 1/2 ish, start and run the bike on the mainstand at idle for about 10 min, they warm up fairly quickly, fan should cut in with guage about 3/4 and before the dash warning light illuminates, if the fan doesn't, it'll be seized, easy enough to replace, again, expensive part.
At the same time as it's running for fan test keep a check on the drip channel as if it's been 'cleaned' prior to viewing drips will become evident at this point.
None of the above are 'problems' as such but useful bargaining chips, the fans seize as during 'normal' running conditions they don't need to come on, only when in warm weather and in traffic e.g., as a result this is often missed on a 'look before buying'.
Check the handlebars for excessive play they're rubber mounted, take a bit of getting used to but worn ones feel really sloppy.
Check the ABS warning lights come on when started and off after a gentle roll.

Do the usual checks, exhaust, tyres, MOT related items, ask when last serviced / where / receipts / frequency / what was done.
Bodywork should be pretty tidy for the mileage.
Have a look at the footpeg rubbers and toe rubber on the gearchange, is it very worn? query mileage, are they spanking new?, query mileage, best clue to the mileage being genuine is lots of old MOT certs with the mileage listed, see if it tallies or jumps indicating a potential clock change.
Mine has 105K on so don't worry unduly about the miles shown, good regular servicing is more important here

Even at a genuine 40 odd K miles the asking price is too high, especially in this current selling climate for motorbikes coupled with possibly the crappiest summer we've had in years, check out free-ads and ebay etc and just see how much stuff is selling for compared to last years prices, I have a tidy Kawasaki Z650 which is just not shifting at all, had about three enquiries but the fact is no-ones got the spare money, or they daren't splash out on big stuff, the ones that can are going the whole hog and dealers are having a decent crack at it with new and nearly new stuff.
All that aside, the asking price is still too high given the seat, grips and scuffs to the bodywork, there are immaculate clean ones on ebay fetching less.
So assuming it checks out according to the above and you can make the seller aware he needs to drastically reduce his asking figure then you might have a good bike there.

One final addition, take a vehicle savvy friend along, I've bought lots of vehicles and am very mechanically minded but still the rose tinted specs slip on a second opinion is invaluable.

Where in the UK are you? I'd be happy to help if you're anywhere near the Highlands
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I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered!

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Hi Andy, you don't say where you are. Look for a post "UK & ROI members show yourselves" or summat like. You should find someone near you.
As for K11 pricing, in 2007 I Sold a 1995 K1100LTSE for £1900 with 90K miles. Didn't cost much more to buy the Current 97 LTSE with 43K miles at the same time. In a nutshell, IMHO your vendor appears to be somewhat greedy.
M1ks post is accurate, apart from some 1995 grey ones which had no heated grips. I can only add (yawn for all who have read this before) This is my 3rd K11 in a row totalling some 60K miles in UK, Netherlands, France, Germany, Austria Switzerland & Belgium. Never had it recovered. I have repaired, between them all :- 1 clutch, 1 Steering head bearing, 2 fork seals, 2 disc bobbins, 2 Ign switch clean, 2 broken wires, 2 corroded switch connections & 1 starter brush replace, apart from normal servicing, pads & batteries.
These engines are good for 250,000 miles, not like Jap Crap.
There is NO problem (yet) which this community cannot answer, so buy with confidence but FFS don't spend that much or buy a dog.
HTH

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1995-BMW-K1100LT-GREY-/270617010489
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Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[AndyT]

Thanks guys, alot of good info there with the price being too high as the common theme. This is a grey one without heated grips (can they be easily fitted at a later stage).

I'll see if he will come down on price. The one on EBay in Manchester is that A good one orr the "dog" you mentioned. I'm watching that one at the moment. I'm over in Aberdeen so along way from Skye unfortunately.


Thanks again everyone.

[m1ks]

Aberdeen, you're only a mere spit away, about 180-200 miles, a mere mornings leisurely run on a K

I bought mine from a guy in Surrey and rode it back to Kyle.

The one Tim links is a decent example with some nice additions like the baglux cover and everything still working is another bonus.
Often you'll fond one or two of the 'toys' nonfunctional, nothing to stress over particularly but it's nice if the bits work.

Ask the guy what his reserve is, most sellers will let you know the you know if it's in your ballpark.
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I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered!

[AndyT]

It looks like I have missed the other one at £2800 The owner said that it was the right price and wouldn't be much if any cheaper had he not have sold it already.

What are the differences between the K1100LT and the LT SE I can see that the SE has a radio and heated grips but is there anything else extra on them!!

Also Bike TRader only has 1 for sale, Ebay has 3 one of which the seller doesnt respond to questions. Is there a BMW owners site that may be a good place to look for one?

Thasnks again

Andy

[miKeinWIs]

Hi Andy,
Welcome. One good thing about K1100s--you've found it! Lots of knowledge here.
Everything you need to know-- from Ted:
#1= http://www.verrill.com/moto/kbikebuyingguide.shtml

#2 = If it ain't leaking and it starts you're good to go.
Also: Grab the fairing under the headlight and give it a shake. Any play may be a broken fairing bracket where it attaches under the steeringhead.

Yes, the standard LT didn't have painted mirrors and saddle bag halves, radio and heated grips. 3 outta 4 ain't needed. My heated grips were added.

You can go crazy looking at all the problems inherrent with ANY bike.
BTDT!! This is basically a solid platform. Some things go wrong due to one thing or another...with any make/model. You're in good hands here.
One will come along that speaks to you--and you'll know.
Good luck
Mike
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'97 K1100LT
Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles