K11 Owners Group

[gaillarry]

Got a bit of a rattle on the front end and found the right side rotor is loose. The rivets aren't tight. Is there a way to tighten them up or do I start looking for a replacement rotor.
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1997 K1100GT

[jpberens1994K1100RS]

You mean dem round things?

Not really a rivet, they are called rotor bobbins.

Little looseness is OK, too much rattle can be annoying.

I bought mine from Moto Bin's. Complete set for BOTHrothors for about $42 shipped. Was a lot less $ than the dealer.

They are supposed to be harder than the originals so instead of being sacrificial to the wear process the rotor may wear more. They are also bright solver like bare metal, but mine have not rusted or anything.

Bit over a year old and they have held up well. Just a hint of rattle now if you try to wiggle a rotor. They were WAY snug when I put them in.
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

[gaillarry]

The right side rotor is excessively loose compared to the left side.

Reading old posts doesn't seem to be an aftermarket supplier in North America and I don't want to pay the high dealer prices. So MotoBins gets my order. Are these the proper ones:

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=rotor%20bobbins&s=1

item 20393
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1997 K1100GT

[jpberens1994K1100RS]

Yeah, that's the kit number I got too, but mine were all bright silver.
Oh well, they work AOK!
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

[Scott_Anderson]

Larry, something you may try if you want to do it.

Some of the rivets have a spring with them to help keep a little tension on the rotor and keep the rattle down.

As the rotor wears the spots where the springs are located the rotor rattles more.

You may try and rotate the rotor(or move the spring clips) so the spring clips are on a new location of the rotor that's not worn as much.

When one replaces the spring clips with new ones it is recommended to place them on new locations on the rotor for the same reason.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Jim]

The ones they used to sell were stainless steel - I think they cost a heap more. These are black finished steel - I hope they don't rust at some point...

The other thing you can do is ride your bike to the hardware store and see which rubber grommet fits in the empty holes - then fill the empty holes with rubber grommets.

If you're brake disc is that loose, it's probably time for new bobbins.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Beachcomber]

Yes, you really need to know your bobbins are OK - especially when you fit the new WAVY DISCS
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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's

[gaillarry]

I ordered a set of bobbins from Motobins, might as well do it right.
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1997 K1100GT

[zyx2k]

I desperately need to change the bobbins on my K11, anyone have any idea if a special tool is needed or can point to any good advice on how to change them?

Thanks
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1993 K1100RS 65,000 miles

[Flying Duck]

[Tim (Midland Section)]

Try this:-
K1100 16v ABS Disc Bobbin “How To”

I have a 56,000-mile bike, which developed a rattle from the front whilst manoeuvring.
It was found to emanate from the front discs, which although described as “floating”, I was told that they shouldn’t float radially. After talking with my favourite supplier, we decided that the likely cause was worn disc bobbins, a known failing. There are improved ones available from the East of England.
One front disc was repaired in just over an hour, using the following method, which
assumes that the rider has some mechanical aptitude (usual disclaimers apply): -
1) Jack under the sump, to allow the wheel to rotate.
2) Assemble: - copper grease, lead lamp, short luggage bungee, small hammer,
8" terminal screwdriver, 8" x 1/4" screwdriver, rag, solvent, beer, beer crate & cushion.
3) Using bungee through the wheel, hang the lead lamp to illuminate the inside of the disc.
4) Place cushion on crate, put crate in front of wheel & sit on cushion.
5) Using terminal driver as a drift, with hammer, tap the first circlip off.
6) Remove all 3 bits & keep separate from new ones.
7) Lightly grease bobbin, inside of disc where the washer will go & the ends of the circlip.
8 ) Fit the bobbin & the washer (check instructions for correct orientation), ensuring that the washer & bobbin are concentric, then push the terminal driver into the circlip slot to hold the washer in position.
9) If you have aligned correctly in step 8, then the circlip will slide into full location, just by pushing the back of the circlip with the 1/4" screwdriver or at most lightly tapping the clip firmly home. If the clip doesn't go into the slot, try compressing the washer with the screwdriver whilst pushing circlip with a finger.
10) Ensure clip has fully seated, repeat 11 more times. Wiping the disc with a solvent soaked rag as you rotate the wheel, to remove any grease, which may have gone astray before it gets onto the pads.
11) Drink beer.


Notes
Do the other side.
I found the brakes were crap after doing this, but they soon bedded in to their new position.
One can remove the whole disc from the wheel, but the bolts are well glued & have been known to strip the ally thread in the wheel.
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Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[DaveVoorhis]

[Flying Duck]

Just me but I pull the rotors off and do it at a table watching TV and drinking beer. If you do that you need to be careful with the bolts that hold the carriers to the wheels. The heads are soft and easy to strip so some Kroil and some heat from a small torch is what I use to get them free.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Jim]

I just noticed coming back from Canada that I had quite a rattle in the front - the left rotor is good - but the right one is fairly loose. Guess I'll be ordering from Motobins, too. Can't figure out why the right side is so much looser than the left.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[zyx2k]

I'm pretty sure I've got that special tool ...

Thanks for all the replies and the 'How To', I'll let you know how it goes
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1993 K1100RS 65,000 miles

[zyx2k]

Hi all, a quick update.

Having ordered a set of bobbins from moto-bins I got round to trying to fit them last Saturday night. I should say that I only ordered one set to being with and received a call from the guys at moto-bins asking if I was sure I only wanted one set.

I explained that I was going to give it a go and see how it went. I decided when I had them on the phone to ask about clutch replacement parts as I thought my clutch was slipping a little under hard acceleration over 5K revs. Instead of selling me a new set of friction plates the guy on the phone took the time to tell me how to tighten the clutch baskets by adjusting the bolt well hidden under the bike at the back of the engine unit. I haven't done this yet but will tomorrow. It is also possible that it is just my tachometer that is sticking at 5K then freeing itself and shooting up.

All went better than expected [or so I thought] replacing the first set of bobbins and once I had the technique of getting the old circlips out the whole job for one rotor took less than an hour. Only two special tools were used in that time

I did have a problem though in that I bent a circlip when one end went the wrong side of a washer. No matter I thought I'll get another from moto-bins.

Ordered the second set to do the other rotor on Monday and when ordering online I made a note to them that perhaps they should include a few spare circlips in case anyone else has the same problem. The set of bobbins arrived today [24hours!] and included an extra bag of circlips at no extra cost! Result!

I got home tonight at 17.30 and sat down to do the other side and quickly realised why I shouldn't have done the first set in twilight. Half of the domed washers were the wrong way round!!!! I hadn't noticed that the moto-bins washers were slightly convex and that the dome should point away from the rotor to keep the bobbin tight .. this being despite the fact that this was written on the packet that the bobbins came in! DOH!

Good thing I hadn't ridden the bike and managed to swap all the washers that were the wrong way round without any problems.

Fitting the domed washers the right way round does require getting them lined up on the bobbin accurately otherwise you might bend a circlip!

All in not as much hassle as I was expecting so thanks to everyone here who helped and loads of thanks to moto-bins for proper old fashioned customer service.
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1993 K1100RS 65,000 miles

[Flying Duck]

Clutch: http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7721
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Shoganai]

[Flying Duck]

[Shoganai]